AZ Mike

which two a/c bolts come out and which one stays in? there is one above the pulley, and two below.

AZ Mike

I only got a couple hours in last Saturday and had to attend to other matters, so I am picking up again today.

Question:
In order to remove serpentine belt tensioner, alternator needs to be slid off of stud. It appears that in order to get the alternator out that far that I need to re-position power steering pump.....is this accurate?

bicol-ini

the power steering pump stays, just remove the air hose connection, heres the FSM for the timing belt procedure i told you in the PM i sent you,

bicol-ini

heres your question about the AC compressor just follow it up to step e. do not remove the bolt that holds the AC to the engine step f


. DISCONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR FROM ENGINE
(a) Disconnect the A/C compressor connector.
(b) Disconnect the wire clamp from the wire bracket on the
A/C compressor.
(c) Remove the bolt, and disconnect the ground cable from
the A/C compressor stay.
(d) Remove the bolt, nut and A/C compressor stay.
(e) Remove the bolt, and disconnect the wire bracket from
the A/C compressor.
(f) Remove the bolt, and disconnect the A/C compressor
from the engine.

AZ Mike

I must be doing something wrong. In attempting to get the alternator off of the bolt to remove the serpentine pulley tensioner, the pulley of the power steering pump is in the way. Is there a way to angle the alternator to sneak it off around the power steering pulley?

I do have some of the FSM; specifically, the part pertaining to the timing belt. However, the FSM is not always crystal clear. I.e., a lot of the steps are very abbreviated. Either that, or I'm just a knucklehead. Then again, I'm pretty sure that I'm a knucklehead, so the FSM is probably fine.

bicol-ini

hi, youre doing alright it takes time, just read thru it, i know the frustration, youre almost there, the alternator swings out and down so you can slide out the tensioner, FSM are made and worded for use by the factory, the little trick or style to remove a particular thing is not listed, weve got to be creative but the satisfaction of doing it has its rewards, keep up so post up and let us know how are you doing

AZ Mike

I am just not seeing how to remove the alternator without removing the power steering pulley. In order to get it off of the stud it shares with the tensioner bracket, either the power steering pulley has got to move, or the alternator must swing in toward the center of the vehicle, which it can't because it butts up against something else.

The a/c compressor is turning out to be a real PITA. I can not get the little screws that hold the wire bracket to budge. I can barely squeeze on a socket with a universal adaptor on to the upper bolt....which I am assuming comes out cuz it appears to hold the lower right of the fan bracket.......but haven't been able to get enough leverage that way to break it loose yet. I shot it with PB Blaster and am letting it sit for a bit.

Ahhh, the joys of the driveway mechanic. Any suggestions?

bicol-ini

ok, on the power steering if youre comfortable to remove the pulley, go for it so you can slide the alternator and slide the tensioner, the AC yes youve got to use a universal or a 3/8 breaker bar just insert a short socket to fit and have room to work on it also try it from the bottom/underneath the car jack up and place it on stands, hopes this help you out

bicol-ini

heres how to remove the alternator

bicol-ini

hopes this helps you out good luck i gotta go to work,

AZ Mike

OK.....it didn't look like it was going to be THIS much of a hassle. lol

Power steering pump pulley.....not sure that it comes off or not.....got the nut off, but the pulley does not slide off after removing nut.

#2 power steering pump issue.....sounds like there is friction when I spin it. Does that have something to do with the pump's operation, or are either the bearings or pump going out on it? It doesn't appear to be leaking or anything. Yet another part to replace??

Still waiting on my good buddy PB Blaster to help the a/c along. Since I can't budge the little screws holding on the wire bracket, and the ends of the bracket sort of "box in" the end of the bolt, I don't have too many available angles at it. The car is already up on ramps.....and looks like it may still be there tomorrow.

AZ Mike

Got the a/c compressor done.....couldn't get the philips screws holding the wiring bracket to budge, so I just bent the lower part of the bracket out of the way to make room for a socket. Not classy, but effective.

Still having issues with the alternator. I see no way to get alternator off of stud in order to remove tensioner bracket without either removing power steering pulley or power steering pump. I got the nut off of the pulley, but the pulley is stuck on there pretty good....perhaps corrosion adhesion? Shot it with PB Blaster, tapped, tried to pull, repeat, nothing yet. So, I look at power steering pump. No big deal.....just one bolt and one nut. Problem with the nut is that it is behind pulley, so no room for a socket, and scarcely any travel for a box end wrench. No luck getting the nut to move yet.

I'm open to suggestions!

ToyLexmods

Sorry if this is late. I would only use the Toyota sealant for the waterpump. You dont want to do this again at all costs. Toyota sealant is called FIPG

ToyotaTech

If Im not mistaken, you can use a deep socket (14mm) or extension to go thru the p/s pulley and just move the p/s pump out a bit to remove the Alternator... Take a pictures of it i can guide you thru it...

Matt

atoyot

that is a generic term which means form in place gasket. the toyota stuff is grey. From all my reading and study i do not see the toyota FIPG any better than permatex FIPG. That is just my opinion.

I have used permatex FIPG all over my land cruiser when i replace a seal. no issues after 220,000 miles.