Wadeisabea

I'm new to lexus and don't know much about what regular maintenance I need to keep up with. I found a 1994 LS 400 with 121k miles at a fairly good price. I'm still waiting for someone to give me a carfax on it(hasn't responded to email yet). IF everything checks out ok I will contact the Lexus dealer and see what maintenance has already been done. Can I get that information over the phone or do I actually have to take the car in?

Now I'm just a little worried about the cost of maintence. I know the motor/transmission won't have too many problems, but what about other stuff? How much do parts cost and how difficult is it to work on? My dad has done most of the work on my accord, and on a 95 saturn.

What regular maintence is required? What kind of oil should be used? How much should I expect in maintenance costs a year?

bigste

You ask a lot of questions which could all be answered by browsing the forum for a couple of hours. If you are diy then it shouldn't be a problem. The sort of things that cost money by the sack full are timing belt, unless you diy but it's a very long job. Broken timing belts don't usually damage the engine on pre 97 cars. Steering rack is pricey. Other stuff is not so bad and generally Lexus are bullet proof. They have a few quirks like the dashboard and LCD's, power steering pump, upper control arms etc. Once the quirks are sorted Lexus LS's are pretty reliable. Most use at least semi synthetic but the tranny needs Toyota type 4 and won't like anything else. Most of our members do like to use OEM parts when possible and things like pads and belts are quite reasonable.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

You'll just have to call and see. I'd imagine they would want to see the car,.. but they might give you a little.

Why not just buy the carfax yourself. If you need one, its like 15$ -- Not that expensive.

All parts are different prices. Parts are fairly high for this car. It is one of the best cars in the world. As such it uses expensive, high quality parts, from Japan. However, OEM parts can be had from Toyota, Carson, Sewell and so on for a significant discount.

Also aftermarket parts exist for many things, that are oem or beter quality. If in doubt just search.

They are very easy to work on in comparison to other foreign cars. Some parts are tricky, but overall, the engine is a easy-medium rating. It isn't like a Chevy 350 in a truck from 1975 -- But it is easier than you think it is. Get your dad to show you what he is doing,.. its good to learn how to work on cars yourself, build your confidence and move up your skill level. I'm sure he would appreciate the help as well, and he won't always be there. (Something to teach your kids, and something the wife/girlfriend will admire) =)

Same regular maintenance as any other car on the road. All cars require the same maintenance in general. The Lexus doesn't have special components that require maintenance other vehicles don't. Again I'd have to refer back to your father ,.. be best if you learned a little bit about how vehicles operate,.. engines and so forth. They are all very similar in design/construction/purpose.

This forum will help you tremendously, however try to search the best you can for anything you have a question on before starting a topic. The same topics have been covered over and over here,.. and this forum is sort of like a big database on your car. Search and ye shall find. If its not there, or not enough is included.. then start the topic. (You'll get more answers from unique topics, or continuations off of searches you've done).

As for maintenance, .. Expect to change the oil every 3k,.. (some go 5k, I say 3k on Dino) -- If you use synthetics, you can go longer.. depending on what you choose. Again, I'm for more regular change intervals rather than relying on 'better' durability in the oil.

Timing belt every 90k.

Spark plugs every 60k or so.

Air filter every 30k (depends on conditions)

Tires 30-40,000 miles (depends on brand/rate of tire)

Brakes slightly more often than tires (pads) -- Rotors generally resurfaced with this.

Transmission, Power Steering, Coolant, Differential, Washer fluid ,etc - All need to be replaced at their due intervals.

this is the same as any other vehicles.

Cost per year? I think your initial year will be the most costly if you do things right. Generally people will replace alot of fluids, and get the car into the best shape they can afford in the first 6months or so. This is costly on maintenance.. But from their it is 'maintenance' -- which is much less costly than doing it all at once.

If you car has been maintained well, then your initial cost shouldn't be as high -- But things like Blackened climate control LCD, guages and so on are going to cost you -- But I don't consider that mechanical maintenance.. that is electrical, and you *could* live without the fix(s) to those departments.

I choose not to though, and have fixed all electrical in my 230k, and all mechanical aside from a crack in my EGR pipe (doesn't harm anything, but makes a sound for about 5minutes until warmed up).

Just for example .. on my 94 LS 400 -- Here is what I've done to it.

New Rack and Pinion
New Power Steering Pump
Cleaned Solenoid (PS) twice.
Plugged ACV.
Replaced Headlights with Sylv. XT's ? The HID on factory volt ones.
Aimed lights.
Replaced Tailight
Fixed Climate Control LCD.
Fixed Instrument cluster -- "fuel gauge slow to respond"
Had leather seats touched up professionally.
Tinted windows.
Bought hundreds and hundreds of dollars worth of cleanup/detail products -- Including a UDM Buffer. Car looks phenomenal, but it is expensive to get into it yourself and time consuming.
Changed oil twice since acquiring it 6 weeks ago. (Wanted to flush it)
Seafoam in Gas, Oil, and Intake. (Reason on second oil change)
Flushed PS fluid twice,.. New fluid filled.
Flushed Coolant, new fill.
Put in new brake sensors.
Put in new door sensors.
Fixed master switch for power windows/locks.
Replaced factory headunit.
Added USB and Ipod integration.
Replaced rear brake pads, and resurfaced rear rotors. (Fronts are next)
Replaced rear tires with michelin (fronts when they wear a bit more)
Added Water wetter,.. etc etc etc.

This list goes on and on -- Some of that wasn't necessary, alot of it. But are things I needed to do -- I still have a laundry list in my head of things to do. The car is my project,.. I don't mind, I enjoy it. I spend alot of time on it. --

But, the condition I have put it in has created something that requires very little effort to maintain. Sort of like cleaning up your apartment, and then putting stuff back up when you get it out, cleaning up after yourself. It stays clean! It isn't a huge job like cleaning it up initially was.

Anyhow, you get the point -- You'll enjoy your LS.

Also think of your budget, if you really had say 8k for a car, and found this one at 5k -- You can justify 3k in maintenance/fixes for the car immediately. Maybe you didn't. Though keep in mind you can't get a more reliable and 'nice' car for around 4-5k dollars. Think about it. =)

Insurance is also not expensive. Sure it is a V8, but that is all. It has very high safety ratings, is large, responsible people drive them, and so forth. Comprehensive could be a little higher,.. but it generally goes by the current 'sale' value of the vehicle. I choose liability only, and pay about $400 a year.

Wadeisabea

UPDATE

Thanks to my local Lexus dealership, I have found out that the car has over 150k miles on it. Is there any way I can report the seller for fraud?

Looks like i'll keep on searching for the next few months.

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

Why yes. Tampering with an odometer is a federal offense/felony level. States also have this provision either in their Vehicle or Penal Codes.

Just to double check, make sure the title you signed off on did not have
"unverified mileage" or some other notation on it. This is an indicator that it was not the original mileage and you're stuck with it as is.

If that is NOT the case, you can report him to your state DMV and they will give him an unbelievable @$$chewing. Our state (California) has special police investigators/force that work for DMV, and they look into this all the time. Can't say the same for NB though.

http://www.dmv.state.ne.us/dvr/odomcert.html

http://www.nsp.state.ne.us/FindFile.asp?ID=253

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you can report it,.. but you don't have much of a leg to stand on. When a car reaches the 10+ yr mark,.. The odometer reading is no longer valid, and is no longer displayed or noted on the Title. They consider 10 yrs the life of reasonable automobiles for whatever reason.

Even with 150, if its in good shape I'd not turn it down. Maybe get a much better price because of the mileage thing. Though I'm sure you are hesitant because of the dishonesty there.. (what else could be wrong, right?)

Don't blame you,.. wish you luck in finding a good clean one in your price range. They aren't easy to find extremely clean.

Patrickb

i pay about 400 a year to cover the car with insurance. i would put down 100-150 a month is maintence cost. really depends on how much you drive and how much has been done to the car before you get it.

your looking at a bit higher replace cost then a civic or a saturn etc. however the intervals of which stuff needs to be fixed is really good with these cars. you can do maintence to a vehicle or you can do break/fix.

let say the car has one major service a year maybe its suspension or t belt or starter or bushing etc. if you put back 100-150 dollars a month and take all your maintence cost (oil changes filters tires) that would be your average carring cost. I would put it right at 15 -25 dollars higher then an econo box and much cheaper then any other car in its range (ie BMW Jags Mercs)

omarg

My LS experience has been phenomenal. If you are DIY or have a relative who has all the basic tools (a craftsman $250 should be more than enough) for maintenance and most repairs.

If you're ****, any car can be expensive to maintain. But the LS is cheap. Stuff just doesnt break. Even when it does, most repairs arent more than 300-500 and they are rare.

Watch out for a PS leak. Thats the most problematic thing that potentially could leave you on the side of the road. Everything else? simple pimple.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

maybe where you live but i know for a fact (having owned several 10+year old vehicles) that what you're saying doesn't apply here in cali.

drewkaree

For all those who tell people "Search, man, search. Then search again", there's a whole heck of a lot of folks who don't actually digest what people ACTUALLY post.

The guy WAS looking at buying an LS, was asking us about it before he bought it, and was just waiting on a Carfax report to help him decide whether to pull the trigger or not.

His "guess I'll keep on looking" should be a dead giveaway to anybody that he DIDN'T buy the car, and probably ISN'T going to buy THAT car. Jeeshcrackers.

As for the over-10-years thing, like most anything auto/DMV related, that clearly differs from state to state. As far as the discrepancy in mileage, a quick look around can give several explanations why the mileage difference (perhaps someone did an early needle/cluster fix and had to do a swap out, problems with ODO not keeping track of mileage due to cluster issues, etc). For such a small difference in mileage, I wouldn't even blink at such a thing, and would use it to my advantage, as was stated in this thread. Have the car checked out by a mechanic, put the screws to the guy about incorrectly reported mileage, hint that it could be a legal issue, and shoot him a lowball offer. Worst that could happen is you end up with an LS with incorrect mileage that the dealer should want to rectify at a stellar price. Otherwise, you can just as easily walk away from it.

Good luck on your search, since it sounds like you're wanting to find another one, or are at least interested in them.

Wadeisabea

Well I told the guy that I am still interested, but I wouldn't go near the asking price of $5750. He asked me what I was willing to give for it? Lets say that it does have 155k on, what would be a good price for a first offer now? You think I can go as low as $4000? Would it be worth $4700? If I ever do decide to resell it, the resale value will definitely be lower if they know the mileage isn't correct. The car looks to be in excellent shape from the pictures, but I haven't seen the engine or test driven it yet.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

the resale value will take a massive hit considering that a lot of people (me included) take a mileage inaccurate tag on the title to be ALMOST as bad as salvage....

Wadeisabea

I did go to NEbraska's dmv site, and I don't have to put the mileage on the title. But with Carfax or even talking to the dealership like I did, I will have to let someone know if I am selling it.

And just to be clear, If I know the mileage is wrong and i tell the buyer, it is legal right? just making sure.

So you think $4,000 is a good price then?

Also one more thing, the local Lexus dealership said it was cost $185 to inspect it. I've heard from other people that paid under $100. Would a Toyota dealership be cheaper and almost as good? Or any certified mechanic for that matter?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

find out what the lexus dealership will do and what the toyota dealership will do, the lexus dealership may be doing a full engine diagnostic but imho thats a waste unless there's a CEL.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

What part doesn't apply?

The mileage being exempt, or uncommonly finding CHEAP clean LS 400's in first gen?

I'm going to guess the mileage. I live in Alabama.. it is a fact here. I have talked to others in other states,.. same rule.

I wouldn't doubt California doesn't have this law. I just assumed the majority of states did.

Consider yourself lucky.. as I stated the law is rediculous, it doesn't apply to these cars, and quite frankly puts them in a 'typical' american bracket of longevity.

Either the law is dated, from odometers that reset at 100k,.. or is new and isn't applied across the nation. I'd guess dated, but who knows.