chisipite

hello sir i see you did an egr delete. here is my probelm i replaced my engine without and egr and put one that has an egr, now the problem is that the engine will not run unless you have your foot on the gas...
could the egr be the cause of this?

Nelexus88

The EGR valve is supposed to be closed at idle and only opens at higher engine speeds, so it should not be the cause of your problem. If you did not swap the ECU and engine harness to match your replacement engine, I expect there will be various problems with the engine and CEL lights.

chisipite

dang it! and to make matters worse the engine i bought i have no idea what year it was for. what if i was to find a way to keep the egr valve open constantly will that help anything

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to find the Vin# on the block somewhere to determine year.

Gene01

The engine has a separate serial number and does not have the VIN stamped on it.
This is true for the LS430, and I believe for the LS400 also.

chisipite

but i would like to think in theory if there is a problem with the egr vavle and vaccum that would cause it not to idle.... am right in thinking along these lines?

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

This seems to tell a different story.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ication-2.html

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I'd look into your IAC motor if your having to keep your foot on the throttle for it to idle.

Gene01

sha4000: Thanks for the picture. Looks like they did include the VIN on the LS400. I no longer have one to check on, but the LS430 does not have the VIN. I wonder what they do if the engine is replaced.

chisipite

Thing is even just to get it started is a mission without flooring the gas pedal. And when it does start up it runs with like popping sounds. The moment you take your foot of the accelerator it dies instantly no warning at all.
As for CEL, NOTHING ever comes up. I have run a dignostic and the only code that comes up is the o2 sensor which I always had even with the previous engine. So no cel and no fault codes.

Can the vaccum cause it to just die instantly like that and also the popping sound?

Help :-(

tnb4lif

I cut my egr tube right at the manifold and took silicone and fiberglass matting rolled it up and stuffed it in the hole. Then I took a cap and capped off the tube. Worked like a charm and simple. The only thing is my check engine light does come on.

jaaa

I had the egr pipe break on me. I hated the smell and noise of it. I finally read about blocking off the egr pipe. I think it took about 15 minutes for me to take out the two bolts on the lower half of the pipe and pull that half of the pipe out. Ten more minutes to cut out the blocking plate from a sheet of thin metal my neighbor had. You can then shove that plate between the gasket(it pulls apart for a gap so you can insert the plate). Another 10 minutes to put it back together. So from start to finish maybe half an hour to get it done. You will need jackstands so you can get to the lower pipe. The bad news is you will get a CEL light. I put up with it for a few months and then broke down and bought a new pipe and installed. It's on the order of replacing your starter. Took two days for me to replace my starter and about 6 hours to replace the pipe as I already knew how hard it would be to replace. Both intakes have to come out, followed by the wiring harness over the bulkhead. Then the water bridge has to come out(that is where the egr pipe is attached to.

dicer

Sounds like a part that should be made from stainless steel. And too bad these cars are 10 to 15 years past the federal emissions warranty.

totoro001

I know this thread has all but died and is a million years old, but since I just yanked the motor on my '92 and came across this while googling, I figured I'd chime in. The EGR pipe is located on the back of the motor (up against the firewall) and to access it I'm pretty sure you would NEED to pull the motor. It is held on by the flange on the top that connects to your intake manifold, and the flange on the bottom that connects to the passenger side exhaust manifold (just above the cat). There is also a bracket on the back-middle of the engine that I believe is attached by a single 12mm bolt.

As far as eliminating it, you could remove the pipe itself (if you have access to it), cut the pipe off of the flanges, and weld 2 small circular plates to the flanges themselves to cover the holes where the pipe was. Once that is done, the old flanges become block of plates. Slap on some new gaskets and reattach.

jaaa

I guess I have a question for you. Has the pipe broken all the way through? If yes, you can remove the lower part of the pipe by itself and install a blocking plate with very little trouble. When I had my egr pipe break, I removed the lower part of the pipe, took out the gasket off and then inserted a very slim aluminum plate between the gasket. The gasket comes almost split and you can shove a plate that is cut out to size. I will warn you, although this fix is a zero cost- the cel light will come on after you do this. After I did the mod, it cut the noise totally off and I couldn't tell any difference in how the engine ran, but, I'm pretty **** and went ahead and replaced the pipe itself after a few months. If you can live with the cel light being on, go for it.