Replaced my rear axle carrier bushings in my 96
01-14-08, 08:14 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replaced my rear axle carrier bushings in my 96
Just finished the diy earlier today. Car drives so much nicer for $60 in parts and 3 hours of my own labor ( although, most of the time was spent jacking up the car, removing wheels, etc.. )
I was hesitant about doing the diy becuase of so much misinformation on there. Spent more time researching than the actual diy.
So to recap:
a) buy the parts from Carson Toyota ( $30/side ). They are adus 505 bearings.
b) this WILL work for a 96 lexus ( couldn't find much confimration during my research before i did the DIY )
c) to get the old bushing out, it was super easy and only required standard tools.
1) when loosening the rear strut rod from the axle carrier, only unloosen the bolt. The nut has some groves which locks it in place.
2) unfasten the the strut rod and push it aside, then put the nut/bolt back in the old bushing, lock it down, and tighten, it'll break the old rubber quickly and just pull out the center metal tube with some pliers.
3) use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to break some of the rubber off. About an 1/4 inch path.
4) use a jig saw with a metal bit and cut the rest of the bearing sleeve. When you get close, you can use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the remaining sleeve out easily.
d) installing the bearing was easy too. Seperate the bearing and install the sides first. Then push in the middle tube. Using large channel locks helps the tube from pushing out the other side of the bushing.
e) aligning the strut rod back to the axle carrier was probably the toughest part. But what I did was to use 2 screwdrivers ( one though each side of the strut rod and bushing tube ) to get things mostly aligned. One screwdriver for each side. When it is aligned, remove the inner screwdriver ( the one farthest from the brake shield ) and push the bolt in.
Now, that the bolt is in one side, it probably wont line up with the other side of the strut bar. Easy fix! It's a bushing after all, just put your socket wrench on the bolt for leverage and you can finesse the bolt through the other end.
f) Then tighten up to 130 lb of torque.
Car rides so much nicer now and saved $1000 by doing it myself. That just leaves more money to do my lower control arms now..
If there is anybody in the Bay Area that needs a hand with this diy, let me know. I think I could do the whole thing in about 2 hours. Probably 1 hour if there was a lift and an impact wrench available.
I was hesitant about doing the diy becuase of so much misinformation on there. Spent more time researching than the actual diy.
So to recap:
a) buy the parts from Carson Toyota ( $30/side ). They are adus 505 bearings.
b) this WILL work for a 96 lexus ( couldn't find much confimration during my research before i did the DIY )
c) to get the old bushing out, it was super easy and only required standard tools.
1) when loosening the rear strut rod from the axle carrier, only unloosen the bolt. The nut has some groves which locks it in place.
2) unfasten the the strut rod and push it aside, then put the nut/bolt back in the old bushing, lock it down, and tighten, it'll break the old rubber quickly and just pull out the center metal tube with some pliers.
3) use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to break some of the rubber off. About an 1/4 inch path.
4) use a jig saw with a metal bit and cut the rest of the bearing sleeve. When you get close, you can use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the remaining sleeve out easily.
d) installing the bearing was easy too. Seperate the bearing and install the sides first. Then push in the middle tube. Using large channel locks helps the tube from pushing out the other side of the bushing.
e) aligning the strut rod back to the axle carrier was probably the toughest part. But what I did was to use 2 screwdrivers ( one though each side of the strut rod and bushing tube ) to get things mostly aligned. One screwdriver for each side. When it is aligned, remove the inner screwdriver ( the one farthest from the brake shield ) and push the bolt in.
Now, that the bolt is in one side, it probably wont line up with the other side of the strut bar. Easy fix! It's a bushing after all, just put your socket wrench on the bolt for leverage and you can finesse the bolt through the other end.
f) Then tighten up to 130 lb of torque.
Car rides so much nicer now and saved $1000 by doing it myself. That just leaves more money to do my lower control arms now..
If there is anybody in the Bay Area that needs a hand with this diy, let me know. I think I could do the whole thing in about 2 hours. Probably 1 hour if there was a lift and an impact wrench available.
01-15-08, 01:13 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
Awesome post, thanks for the write up!
Can you tell us how the car rides better? Exactly what improvements have you noticed?
I want to figure out the equivalent of this for my 94 and attempt it someday
Can you tell us how the car rides better? Exactly what improvements have you noticed?
I want to figure out the equivalent of this for my 94 and attempt it someday
01-16-08, 10:14 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's definately noticable when driving. Going over bumps , the rear end feels much better.
When driving onto banked freeway onramps, the rear end feels great. Much more solid and it the car tracks better.
On the sound front, it seems to have reduced some of the clunking up front as well. I didn't get any noise from the back before hand, and there isn't any there now either.
All, in all, a great $60 upgrade!
When driving onto banked freeway onramps, the rear end feels great. Much more solid and it the car tracks better.
On the sound front, it seems to have reduced some of the clunking up front as well. I didn't get any noise from the back before hand, and there isn't any there now either.
All, in all, a great $60 upgrade!
01-16-08, 11:22 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
So it sounds like the way you did it was pretty similar to the LexLS method:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspe...abushings.html
Except you cut the bushing instead of pressing it out...
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspe...abushings.html
Except you cut the bushing instead of pressing it out...
01-20-08, 08:22 AM
#7
Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replaced my rear axle carrier bushings in my 96
Just finished the diy earlier today. Car drives so much nicer for $60 in parts and 3 hours of my own labor ( although, most of the time was spent jacking up the car, removing wheels, etc.. )
I was hesitant about doing the diy becuase of so much misinformation on there. Spent more time researching than the actual diy.
So to recap:
a) buy the parts from Carson Toyota ( $30/side ). They are adus 505 bearings.
b) this WILL work for a 96 lexus ( couldn't find much confimration during my research before i did the DIY )
c) to get the old bushing out, it was super easy and only required standard tools.
1) when loosening the rear strut rod from the axle carrier, only unloosen the bolt. The nut has some groves which locks it in place.
2) unfasten the the strut rod and push it aside, then put the nut/bolt back in the old bushing, lock it down, and tighten, it'll break the old rubber quickly and just pull out the center metal tube with some pliers.
3) use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to break some of the rubber off. About an 1/4 inch path.
4) use a jig saw with a metal bit and cut the rest of the bearing sleeve. When you get close, you can use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the remaining sleeve out easily.
d) installing the bearing was easy too. Seperate the bearing and install the sides first. Then push in the middle tube. Using large channel locks helps the tube from pushing out the other side of the bushing.
e) aligning the strut rod back to the axle carrier was probably the toughest part. But what I did was to use 2 screwdrivers ( one though each side of the strut rod and bushing tube ) to get things mostly aligned. One screwdriver for each side. When it is aligned, remove the inner screwdriver ( the one farthest from the brake shield ) and push the bolt in.
Now, that the bolt is in one side, it probably wont line up with the other side of the strut bar. Easy fix! It's a bushing after all, just put your socket wrench on the bolt for leverage and you can finesse the bolt through the other end.
f) Then tighten up to 130 lb of torque.
Car rides so much nicer now and saved $1000 by doing it myself. That just leaves more money to do my lower control arms now..
If there is anybody in the Bay Area that needs a hand with this diy, let me know. I think I could do the whole thing in about 2 hours. Probably 1 hour if there was a lift and an impact wrench available.
I was hesitant about doing the diy becuase of so much misinformation on there. Spent more time researching than the actual diy.
So to recap:
a) buy the parts from Carson Toyota ( $30/side ). They are adus 505 bearings.
b) this WILL work for a 96 lexus ( couldn't find much confimration during my research before i did the DIY )
c) to get the old bushing out, it was super easy and only required standard tools.
1) when loosening the rear strut rod from the axle carrier, only unloosen the bolt. The nut has some groves which locks it in place.
2) unfasten the the strut rod and push it aside, then put the nut/bolt back in the old bushing, lock it down, and tighten, it'll break the old rubber quickly and just pull out the center metal tube with some pliers.
3) use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to break some of the rubber off. About an 1/4 inch path.
4) use a jig saw with a metal bit and cut the rest of the bearing sleeve. When you get close, you can use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the remaining sleeve out easily.
d) installing the bearing was easy too. Seperate the bearing and install the sides first. Then push in the middle tube. Using large channel locks helps the tube from pushing out the other side of the bushing.
e) aligning the strut rod back to the axle carrier was probably the toughest part. But what I did was to use 2 screwdrivers ( one though each side of the strut rod and bushing tube ) to get things mostly aligned. One screwdriver for each side. When it is aligned, remove the inner screwdriver ( the one farthest from the brake shield ) and push the bolt in.
Now, that the bolt is in one side, it probably wont line up with the other side of the strut bar. Easy fix! It's a bushing after all, just put your socket wrench on the bolt for leverage and you can finesse the bolt through the other end.
f) Then tighten up to 130 lb of torque.
Car rides so much nicer now and saved $1000 by doing it myself. That just leaves more money to do my lower control arms now..
If there is anybody in the Bay Area that needs a hand with this diy, let me know. I think I could do the whole thing in about 2 hours. Probably 1 hour if there was a lift and an impact wrench available.
I know that everyone uses the tutorials of the Gen1 LS in the forums. I also have a 96 as well. I just want to make sure which ADUS bushing I need. Does the ADUS 505 go onto the bar that has a slight curve/bend? On my 96 the bushing on that bar, of which the lexus catalog calls the "strut bar", needs to been replaced. Please let me know. Many thanks.
Trending Topics
01-20-08, 07:39 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Flat,
I know that everyone uses the tutorials of the Gen1 LS in the forums. I also have a 96 as well. I just want to make sure which ADUS bushing I need. Does the ADUS 505 go onto the bar that has a slight curve/bend? On my 96 the bushing on that bar, of which the lexus catalog calls the "strut bar", needs to been replaced. Please let me know. Many thanks.
I know that everyone uses the tutorials of the Gen1 LS in the forums. I also have a 96 as well. I just want to make sure which ADUS bushing I need. Does the ADUS 505 go onto the bar that has a slight curve/bend? On my 96 the bushing on that bar, of which the lexus catalog calls the "strut bar", needs to been replaced. Please let me know. Many thanks.
the strut bar has a bushing ( towards the front of the car ), and at the other end is "U" shaped piece. This piece goes over the bushing in the rear axle carrier.
01-29-08, 11:51 AM
#9
Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Adus 505
Flat,
I'm sorry for being so clueless. When my car was jacked up and I was underneath, I noticed that my strut bar needs bushings. As far as I know the strut bar is the bar that has a slight bend to it. The end of the strut bar that I need is the end pointing to the end of the car. So what bushing is that? Is that also the 505? I really don't remember whether that end has a "U" or not. All I know is that the bushing is needed at the end pointing towards the back. PLMK. Thanks.
Edward
I'm sorry for being so clueless. When my car was jacked up and I was underneath, I noticed that my strut bar needs bushings. As far as I know the strut bar is the bar that has a slight bend to it. The end of the strut bar that I need is the end pointing to the end of the car. So what bushing is that? Is that also the 505? I really don't remember whether that end has a "U" or not. All I know is that the bushing is needed at the end pointing towards the back. PLMK. Thanks.
Edward
01-30-08, 02:19 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bravo, Bravo, on this repair.
I did this on my 1991.. THey were sooo shot.... What a difference.. I think the rear axle carriers and the engine mounts and the lower ball joints are the 3 most important improvers on the older LS's..
When you replace these, when you go are in a parking garage and are turing the rear end stays still.. Mine used to sway back and forth a little.. when you go over speed bumps the rear end goes straight up and down.. when you replace these you'll see how important they are and why they wear out...
Mine were torn apart.. The hardest part was obviously the 130 lbs torque, so before you start, go ahead and get yourself a 3 foot 1/2" drive breaker bar.. Also I don't have a lift, so the part that took the longest was unscrewing the bolt because I could only get 2 of the 12 socket spaces at at time....
Yeah guys, lexus doesn't have a replacement, I believe the ADUS 505 is an aftermarket bushing that lexus labels as their own, put them in and what a difference.
The back end tracks better and doesnt' wander over bumps and at hight speeds feels much, much more stable... Easy way to test, grab the arm where it hooks into the rear carrier and try to twist if it twists at all, they are worn, and also look at them visually, they will have wrinkes ijn them if they are shot..
Loved this fix
I did this on my 1991.. THey were sooo shot.... What a difference.. I think the rear axle carriers and the engine mounts and the lower ball joints are the 3 most important improvers on the older LS's..
When you replace these, when you go are in a parking garage and are turing the rear end stays still.. Mine used to sway back and forth a little.. when you go over speed bumps the rear end goes straight up and down.. when you replace these you'll see how important they are and why they wear out...
Mine were torn apart.. The hardest part was obviously the 130 lbs torque, so before you start, go ahead and get yourself a 3 foot 1/2" drive breaker bar.. Also I don't have a lift, so the part that took the longest was unscrewing the bolt because I could only get 2 of the 12 socket spaces at at time....
Yeah guys, lexus doesn't have a replacement, I believe the ADUS 505 is an aftermarket bushing that lexus labels as their own, put them in and what a difference.
The back end tracks better and doesnt' wander over bumps and at hight speeds feels much, much more stable... Easy way to test, grab the arm where it hooks into the rear carrier and try to twist if it twists at all, they are worn, and also look at them visually, they will have wrinkes ijn them if they are shot..
Loved this fix
01-30-08, 02:22 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
en11871
Yes the bushing is the end pointing towards the back.. I 'll bet the bushing on the car, or the one in front of the carrier is ok.. The rear carrier is the one that takes all the side to side abuse.. ADUS 505 is what you want.. THe difference is that the replacement sort of lips over the outside of the arm, where as the factory it is just pressed inside.... So that is why I had to drill out the old one, through the bad rubber to get it to press out...
Also I did this because I didn't want to remove the arm.. Just drill ou the old bushing and clean it and grease the new one, and align and put the bolt through , this will take some finagliing as you have to move the whole rear carrier...It's amazing all the forces on that little bushing.
Yes the bushing is the end pointing towards the back.. I 'll bet the bushing on the car, or the one in front of the carrier is ok.. The rear carrier is the one that takes all the side to side abuse.. ADUS 505 is what you want.. THe difference is that the replacement sort of lips over the outside of the arm, where as the factory it is just pressed inside.... So that is why I had to drill out the old one, through the bad rubber to get it to press out...
Also I did this because I didn't want to remove the arm.. Just drill ou the old bushing and clean it and grease the new one, and align and put the bolt through , this will take some finagliing as you have to move the whole rear carrier...It's amazing all the forces on that little bushing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lyonkster
Suspension and Brakes
447
06-14-23 06:57 AM
