tcho82

iTrader: (1)

So, I've decided to upgrade the entire stereo system in the LS. Its been a trial and error process, but with all the knowledge on here and lexls, I've been able to get really familiar with all the panels etc...

I'll post pics of the process when I get a chance, currently all the parts are on their way.

-4" Polk Audio Components - Front
-4" Polk Audio Mid Range - Rear (its actually the same set as the fronts, but I don't plan on mounting the tweeter) But I may change my mind, just don't want to cut the door.
-Sony CDX-GT500 Cd player(chosen because of the price and rear aux input for HK system)
-Harmon Kardon Drive and Play Ipod System
-12" Alpine Type E subwoofer
-240 W Rms @ 4 ohm Alpine Mono Amp
-Rockford Fosgate Cabling
-Nuvi 350 Mount

Initially I tried using Infinity Reference 4" 2 ways, but just didn't like the lack of separation, so I'm trying the Polks. Hopefully I'll get decent sound. I'm thinking about going the easy route and using the existing factory crossovers. Does anyone think this is a bad idea? I'm just kind of lazy. We'll have to see about this one too) I bought a dremel etc to mount in 5 1/4's but again, decided against hacking up the factory box.

Hopefully the system turns out ok.


One question for anyone who has had experience. Is there a grommet that I can squirrel through 8 gauge wiring through to the interior from the engine bay? Its a pretty tight fit and couldn't really see one for easy access at first glance.

EDIT - PICTURES ADDED

pito

I have had good experiences with Polk in the past. Good sound quality.

Good luck with your install.

LRP_LS400

can't wait to see the pictures. I've added a deck, amp and subs but have yet to upgrade the door speakers.

Lexkost

I put 6.5s in a first gen and second gen LS....here's a pic. of my rear tweeter.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=163264

you can run power cable through the rubber boot( just poke a hole in the rubber )for the A.C. and it comes out behind the glove box

ERILUDE

The problem with the 400s though is that they can't take a heavy load. Like I'm running just subs off my battery and cap and the lights dim bad. What have you guys done to resolve this problem? I heard 200 amp relays help alot but I don't want another battery.

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

Yea I even bought a dremel at sears to fit some bigger speakers in, but I'm just too lazy, especially after I saw how thick the speaker box was.

That's not a bad idea to mount the tweeter in that rear passenger location, but I was thinking that it might be a bit bright for the rear passenger.

I was thinking just drill a hole into the door panel and mount the tweeter, might look a bit ghetto though.... Not sure. I'll have to see what kind of mounts come with when I get the speakers.

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

Do they dim bad when you pound the sub or just always? I don't plan on pounding my sub, I'm really just trying to make a balanced system. But I really hope it doesn't dim too bad. That's just ghetto.

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

lexkost thanks for the tip on the power wire. That is going to save me some time.

vsynergy

4'' speakers will offer you no midbass, you're going to have high and lows but no mids, so your stereo system might sound a bit unbalanced. What I would've done was, get 6.5'' components and mount them on a custom baffle. They're simple to make, all it takes is a jigsaw.

Your rears shouldn't matter so much. What matters the most is your front stage, since you're the driver. If you actually do want to mount the tweeters, see if your midbass driver supports coxial mount for the tweeter, that way you won't have to hack up your door.

Good luck, and great choice on components, are they Polk MOMO's btw?

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

I know I'm going to suffer on midbass, but I think the stock 4 inchers do an OK job at filling in some mid bass, so I'm hoping components will only increase that amount. I'm not going to have the sub blasting either. This is my daily driver/cruiser car so I'm not trying to be big pimpin down the block. I love how the interior is so quiet though, makes the music sound that much better.

I just got done drilling a hole in the dash to mount the screen for the harmon kardon system and also mounted the fake "i-drive" controller right next to the shifter. Also since all the panels were out, I also decided to replace the door courtesy switches that were slowly failing off and on.

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

And not to sound completely retarded or anything... but which hole is the AC stuff and how do I remove the glove box to get access to behind it. I've got everything else out, but couldn't figure this part out.

Also do I need to remove the rear seat to run the wires to the trunk? Is there an easier way?

If I need to remove the rear seat how do I do this.

(I hate installing and amp, its just a PITA, and takes the most time and is the LEAST fun part of all) Everything else I enjoy doing. I hate installing amps.

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

To reply to my newbness I found out how to remove the rear seat. I didn't look hard enough. Sorry.

c20xe

do you have any pics of this whole process dude??

tcho82

iTrader: (1)

I've been snapping a few pics along the way. But I don't have a step by step write up or anything, its more trial and error. There are a bunch of articles on how to already do this stuff. I'm waiting on my amp sub and amp kit to come in the mail. I hate waiting, but I saved a buttload by going online. Nothing to show right now, just lots of scattered wires and the dash and doors ripped apart.

JdmLs400

in my first gen, ive upgraded to a pioneer deh-m80mp, kicker 750x1 amp, and 2 12 inch kicker vr comps, and somehow manage to fit 5.25's in the front panels and 6.5s in the rear doors.

as for the dimming part. my lights stay on just fine. loud or not.

im planning to wire up the inside speakers to an amp instead of running them from the deck. sounds clear inside, but i get a lot a rattle. im also planning to dynomat alot of the car. HA.