MadMaxxNA

Our LS400 developed a strange issue the other day. My dad complained that there was no pickup what so ever, no matter how hard you hit the gas. I went over to check it out, engine ran smooth but the idle was low. Low and behold, there was no fire from half of the engine due to a dead distributor LOL. Testimate to 'yota design though, engine would still get you to where you needed to go with 50% functionality!

I pulled the passenger side cap off, the rotor had lodged itself on one of the pickups and sheered the button cap right off. Total destruction, lots of pink plastic everywhere...quite cool looking actually. So, now was a good time as any to replace both sides with new rotor buttons and caps (along w/ new plugs). I will say that the car hasn't run this good in a LONG time! I highly recomend that anyone drop the coin (it wasn't but like 60$ for both) and do it..especially if you have a higher milage engine. Just don't make the mistake I did and let one of the wires fall out of their stays (over the cam gears)...cam gear got ahold of it and chewed in half Well, new wires now too LOL.

This is the first real trouble we have EVER had with this car. 303,421 miles on her, going strong as ever! No leaks, no creaks... all the needles even work flawlessly. Damn I love these things.

Suneet

Thanks for the informative post. I've been meaning to change my wires, plugs, caps, and rotors. I know how to do the plugs and wires, but can you give any more insight on how to do the caps and rotors? I'm still not sure what exactly they do.. but I know I need to replace them along with my wires etc.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Although not necessary, when I had the TB changed at 100K, the ignition parts (caps, rotors, wires and plugs) were changed too. The car felt good and I didn't think there would be an obvious difference.

MadMaxxNA

(From memory, please forgive if I miss a step)

14mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
8mm socket
flathead screwdriver
ratchet extension


-Remove the cruise control cover plate

-Remove the intake assembly as one piece (upper hose, maf, airbox) 10mm

-Remove the airbox piece over the rad (don't want to lean on it by mistake) 10mm

-Remove the spark plug cover, coil cover, and fuel rail covers. 10mm

-Remove coil from the center (made it easier for me, but may not be required) w/ bracket

-Remove the drivers side distributor cover - should be 3 10mm bolts, one is hidden under the bottom

- Loosen the drive belt tensioner and slip the belt off
*note: I also removed the upper rad hose, since I was planning on draining/refilling the coolant anyway. Gives you more room to work, just unbolt it and tuck it aside.

-Remove passenger side distributor cover. This cover is larger than the drivers side, and there are more mount locations. There are 2 long 12mm bolts (near the centerline of the block, upper and lower) , and several 10's. One is hidden almost directly behind the pulley.. I had to feel around for it before I found it.

With the 2 covers off, you can see the cam gears and distributor. You can do a quick visual inspection of the t-belts while you are there.

-Remove the plug wires from the top of each distributor

-Unbolt the distributors - 3 8mm bolts (or you can use a screwdriver, but I prefer the socket)

-Unbolt the rotor button - 2 8mm bolts (again, socket or screwdriver) – note the direction of the pickup. I don’t think you can install it backwards..but better to be safe than sorry

-Swap in the new rotor button and cap, same as removal

Now would be the time to swap out plugs and/or plug wires

***BE SURE**** that each of the plug wires is *FIRMLY* pressed down into their stays above the cam gears. If it is loose, it can get wedged in the cam gear and it WILL eat the wire in less than a second.


-With the new rotor/cap on, put the wires back on. The wires (if they are OEM or decent) should be numbered, so is the cap. Hard to mismatch them

-Re-tension the drive belt

-Attach the intake pipe assembly back to the throttle body. Do not put everything back on yet

-Start the engine to make sure everything runs smooth, and that your wires are indeed tucked tightly in their stays

-If everything is good to go, shut the motor down and re-assemble the covers and the rest of the airbox/cruise covers.

Suneet

Thanks so much for that writeup. This will definitely be my next mod. I have the NGK plugs and wires just sitting and waiting. Need to order a cap and rotor now. Thanks again.