jonny0017

Would somebody be able to tell me step by step how to get to the fuse box off a 99 ls400? I can't get the bottom-most kick panel off. I can get the one right under the steering wheel off, but not the one underneath it by the brake pedal.

jonny0017

anybody please?

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

If your talking about the kick panel with carpet on it: Remove the door sill, then you just need to pull the carpet down until you can get it above the brake pedal. That should give you more room at the kick panel. Not a very good description though.

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

I just did this mod and here is some help to get a truly complete writeup.

* Move the seat all the way back and down.

* Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

* Remove these three panels, and disconnect all wires.
Pull the panel around the key towards the back of the car.
Unscrew the two screws on the lowest panel. This panel "hooks" onto a metal bracket so you need to slide that panel toward the front.
Four bolts and a screw hold the middle panel.



* Remove the vent duct by pulling down on the console side. I didn't get a pic of this, but it's obvious. The vents just press together. Don't be tempted to remove the duct on the left side of the dash.

* Fuse box:
There are two bolts and a nut 10mm holding on the fuse box. It's located on the underside of the dash. You'll need to unhook all of the connectors on the bottom (fuse) side. The relays are on top of the fuse panel. I removed most of the connectors on the top side of the panel to have better access. Don't pull on the wires there isn't much room. Don't disconnect the yellow connector.


Looking up under the dash. Already added the 12v power supply tap on the air suspension fuse.


Top (relay) side of the box. I've already removed the fog lamp relay in this photo. Refer to the diagram that was already posted.

* Remove the fog light relay.

* Making harness
These Doreman male (pn: 85455) and female (pn: 85454) spade stile disconnects fit perfectly on the relay and into the slots on the fuse box. I bet any 12-10 gage similar style connector would work fine.




Don't skimp out on the wire us use. 14 or 12 gage is what I used. Remember your harness will carry all of the current that goes to the fog lamps.

THERE IS NO NEED TO TAP INTO THE TURN SIGNAL HARNESS.
Ok sorry for the caps, but at least on the LS there isn't a reason. The fog light switch controls ground. This already goes to the fog light relay so we can tap into it here (see below).



Use two spade connectors to tap into the 12v in and the 12v out contacts on the fuse panel where the old relay plugged in. These will connect to the respective contact on the relay with a female connector. I made the wires about 10" long.

Use one spade connector to tap into the fog light switch (controls ground) at the fuse panel where the relay used to plug in. This will connect to the respective contact on the relay. I made this wire 10" long also.

Use a fuse tap to supply 12v to the relay. I wanted to be able to use the fog lights at any time. So I tapped into the air suspension fuse. My car doesn't have air suspension. This 12v will connect to the relay with a female connector at the last contact. This contact previously had 12v supplied when the headlights were on. I made this total length about 14 inches.

I added a zip tie to the wires to keep everything together.

* Connect the harness and reconnect all of the OEM connectors. Don't reassemble yet. We need to test the harness.

* Cross your fingers, reconnect the battery, and turn on the ignition. Test the fog lights and the headlights.

* If everything goes well then button it all back up.

RaXxaa

Hi everyone, i was looking forward to the fog light mod but had alot of troubles locating the relays cuz i was looking at the GS which, if iam correct, has a relay near the left foot rest...
anyway i did my own simple fog light mod, and i belive anyone can do it.

I spliced the side orange side markers on my 98( yours may be different) and wired the foglight directly to it.

So now whenever i turn the light stalk 1 click, which is all the parking lights on, my fogs turn on too.

I have this done with only one problem(blown fuse), other than that there are no troubles uptil now.

You will have a blown fuse aswell unless you replace the stock 7.5 amp fuse with a 15amp fuse to handle the 2 55w fogs.

Hope this helps those who do not wish to remove panels and go throught the wiring.

I dont know exactly what fuse it is but read the owners manual, it will help. the fuse is in driver's side fusebox.

qewani1

I will try to do so, but is that safe to do?

qewani1

check here
http://celsiorup.com/custom20/2001etc_1.htm

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

No, it is not. the wires drawing current for the fogs are a much lower AWG (thicker cable) to cope with the higher load. the reason raxaa is blowing fuses is becuase there's far more load on the wiring than that circuit is designed for. he will blow fuses constantly and if he gets a 15-20a that won't blow he has the potential for melting the harness or even starting an electrical fire.

Raxaa, i recommend you do it over properly before breaking/burning something.

also, when I eventually get around to doing this, i'll be using an Add-A-Fuse instead of just shoving a wire into a fuse slot. like this:

RaXxaa

Oh yes forgot to put that try at your own risk. Mine is working, for now, and iam a little into the hobby stuff, and use all the rc things with the wires being about 12-14 and pulling alot of Amps,
around 100 with out burning.

Now these wires may have potential to cause a fire but i do not see why they would not hold up to atleast 25 amps or even 15 amps reasonably well.

But still thx for the tip. i will further my reasearch now that you have mentioned this point.

clarkpark

looks good.

dengman

Seriously. . . I've just spend 30mintues reading this thread and couldn't figure out what the purpose of the "harness" was.

I havent really looked yet, but couldn't you just unpin the one wire that draws 12V from the head lights from the fuse box and wire that to a source that is 12v when the key is on?

Thats what I thought up in my head before even reading this thread. Thats why I was confused on the whole harness part.

I guess I will give it a try soon and I'll let you guys know.

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

You may be able to do that, but I wasn't sure where to unpin w/o possibly having the dash lights thinking the headlights are on or something like that. The harness is pretty easy to make, but there are always alternatives.

GRAND_LS 4

iTrader: (2)

If you actually do that, you will lose functionality of your foglight switch, rendering them essentially to daytime running lights (always on, which isnt a good idea.) The harness gives you access to the relays which trigger power to the foglights themselves, rendering the switch independent from the original design that was dependent on the headlights turning on.

I hope that makes sense.

dengman

From what the diagrams provided in this thread of what the relay does.. the oem switch when turned on completes the ground circuit?

Id have to take the relay apart and play with it to see what it actually does.

They method I described is still using the oem relay plugged in. Just changing one wires power source.

If i were to pull the dash apart and saw a harness and relay hooked up I would scratch my head for at least 1hr. But the way I described one wire changed would be easier to figure out just by looking at wiring schematics.

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

Yeah the switch controls ground, and the headlight circut controls +12V for the relay's trigger (coil). I don't remember how the relay get's power, but I would guess it's Accessory or battery controlled.