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Hello friends, does anyone have advice or a link or video on how to diagnose and fix this? The needle does rise as the engine gets warm, but never above zero. Car is a 1994 Celsior UCF21, manufactured in October 1994. Thanks!
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Last edited by Yamae; Oct 16, 2024 at 03:55 AM.
Reason: Correction Oil -> Water
What are you calling “zero?” There isn’t really one on the gauge (water, not oil). How high does it rise after 1/2 hour of driving in town?
A stuck thermostat can prevent cars from ever warming up. If the gauge is not moving at all, check the sensor and make certain you actually have coolant and not a leak and lost it.
In my experience, the delicate needles and mechanisms in the cluster can get miscalibrated. This can happen if the car or cluster gets a big jolt. I think it can also happen from age. My guess is you have an issue with the physical cluster itself (which, in contrast to many other parts of this vehicle, are HIGHLY prone to various types of failure over time)
By opening up the cluster you may be able to re-calibrate by pushing it back up a bit, but everything is so delicate in there. I haven’t attempted this any time I’ve had my cluster open, which was just to transplant known good gauges from another cluster and add needle stops.
i believe Tanin Auto is a good place to send the unit for repair, pretty much the only thing to do is take the cluster apart and directly address the mis-calibrated needle
The plug for the coolant sensor might have come disconnected or broken. Did you fiddle with the passenger side of the engine compartment recently?
this is my vote. there are two coolant sensors (yes that's the water temp, not oil) on the top of the engine. 1-wire is for the gauge cluster, the 2-wire is for the temp sensor for the ECU. check those connections.
Judging from your words, "The needle does rise as the engine gets warm”, the connector line seems to be connected. I worry that the meter itself or the cluster board for the temperature indication is biased lower.
I agree with Yamae and Stroock639. I believe that the problem is with the water temperature needle module in the cluster, not with the sensor. It should never read below the lowest line when the cluster is functioning properly
You can test the temperature sensor if you want, just to eliminate that as a problem
Here's the basic idea of how the sensor works (ignore everything until 3:32):
Thank you all for the input, I’ll try the sensor testing procedure. By “zero” I meant the minimum marking or “C” on the gauge, I didn’t think that would be controversial terminology. The needle certainly does rise as the engine runs, but never to or above the “C”
Based on your description, I suspect you will end up finding that your temperature sensor is ok, and the problem is with the needle, as mentioned before
Your cluster probably needs to be removed and the temperature needle recalibrated to sit at the low marker
To close this out, I resolved this by removing the cluster and sending it The Lexpert for a rebuild. Highly recommended, fast service, careful shipping and great communication. $575.