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-   -   tsx retro and deline headlights failure (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lighting/368358-tsx-retro-and-deline-headlights-failure.html)

scshinobi 07-20-08 04:31 AM

tsx retro and deline headlights failure
 
the projectors seem to sit to far in is that a problem any way i can make it flush with the chrome part? also i tried delining the headlights and it went terribly wrong... as you can see its super hazy and that is after 2000 grit wet sanding for about 3 min. on the left is the one i tried to sand and the one on the right is oem not touched. anyway i can revive this lense?:sad:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_114.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_113.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_112.jpg

this retro is not going to good i broke two level things on the bottom right of the headlights it has a 0 in the middle and says L on one end and R on the other clear and the long screw that i think is used to adjust the level broke in two:egads:

status.... 07-20-08 05:21 AM

did you sand the outside? looks like you did but your suppose to sand the inside part

tavarish 07-20-08 08:45 AM

you have to use a plastic polish to get the haze away. i suggest PlastX.

Delining is hard, I've only done one side, and I still have to redo it.

tcrow31 07-20-08 08:45 AM

To get the shine back your gonna have to use a product like PlasticX by Maguire's and either use a drill attachment or high speed buffer and buff them out. You can do it by hand but just doesnt come out as great. As for why your projector are sunken in like that I have no clue.

scshinobi 07-20-08 12:25 PM

i tried plastic x by hand didnt work ill try buffer later thanks!

Kyle Harty 07-20-08 12:47 PM

You could probably save yourself some effort by using rubbing compound and/or a paint polish in between the wetsanding and Plastx.

scshinobi 07-20-08 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by Kyle Harty (Post 3693389)
You could probably save yourself some effort by using rubbing compound and/or a paint polish in between the wetsanding and Plastx.

rubbing alcohol work?

tuan92129 07-20-08 05:04 PM

Go with 2000 and higher wet sanding (like 3000?) then Meguiars pastx ...that should work, since i used that on my lenses..

scshinobi 07-20-08 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by tuan92129 (Post 3693755)
Go with 2000 and higher wet sanding (like 3000?) then Meguiars pastx ...that should work, since i used that on my lenses..

2k is the highest i could find:sad:

pnyboy27 07-20-08 06:01 PM

yea..when i delined mine i used plastx too..that stuff is good. did mine all by hand too..it can be done..it just takes forever. if you have the tools or the connections to get tools..then i would suggest to get them. it will save you plenty of time. as you saw on mine..i still didnt get it too perfect. maybe if i get a buffer..then i would be able to get better results..thats if i dont decide on swapping them out for some new oem ones. i decided i liked the chrome better than my black/chrome ones.

Kyle Harty 07-20-08 07:03 PM


Originally Posted by scshinobi (Post 3693400)
rubbing alcohol work?

It won't help with this, the haze you have right now is basically many many very fine scratches; you have to work those scratches finer and finer until they disappear. You can use compounds basically the same way you would use 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper; start with an aggresive compound (rubbing compound, which is still finer than the 2000 grit); then move to a polish and then the Plastx which is a very very fine grit if any and I believe some fillers. This will save you alot of time over trying to work all those scratches out with the Plastx.

scshinobi 07-20-08 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by Kyle Harty (Post 3693970)
It won't help with this, the haze you have right now is basically many many very fine scratches; you have to work those scratches finer and finer until they disappear. You can use compounds basically the same way you would use 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper; start with an aggresive compound (rubbing compound, which is still finer than the 2000 grit); then move to a polish and then the Plastx which is a very very fine grit if any and I believe some fillers. This will save you alot of time over trying to work all those scratches out with the Plastx.

so your saying keep sanding with grit higher than 2000k and stop use wax(my polish) then plastic x then sand again until clear?

SC30096 07-21-08 12:10 AM

3000 grit then plastix... when using plastix you cant just apply and wipe off you need to work it in as if it was like sandpaper. and yeah your output is gonna be affected because your projectors are sitting so far in. mostly on the side output. I recommend you purchase brackets and push them out. if you look at my link below it'll give you an idea of whats it looks like properly installed.

Kyle Harty 07-21-08 03:34 PM

You wouldn't necessarily need higher than 2000 grit paper, although if you could find 3000 that would probably make your job a little easier.

Your wax wouldn't do you any good in the middle of the process, it wouldn't hurt and may enhance the appearance a little to put a coat of wax on when your done though.

I'd go out and buy some rubbing compound, I've always been satisfied with 3M products but others should do the job just as well. Then follow that with your Plastx or a true mildly abrasive paint polish between the compound and Plastx.

The Plastx is your final step that will restore the shine and clarity of the lens. If you sanded after that you'd be right back where you are now with the haze. The rubbing compound and polishing and plastx is to eliminate the haze from the sanding scratches.

There's a stickied thread at the top of the detailing forum on headlight restoration that would be a good read, I think it'd help clarify what's going on and what needs to be done to clear it up.

scshinobi 07-21-08 09:37 PM


Originally Posted by SC30096 (Post 3694526)
3000 grit then plastix... when using plastix you cant just apply and wipe off you need to work it in as if it was like sandpaper. and yeah your output is gonna be affected because your projectors are sitting so far in. mostly on the side output. I recommend you purchase brackets and push them out. if you look at my link below it'll give you an idea of whats it looks like properly installed.

i used brackets

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_127.jpg

iono if you can tell but i think i used them wrong? i used them to push the projectors back i think?:uh: the right one kinda give you and idea of where the brackets are


Originally Posted by Kyle Harty (Post 3696027)
You wouldn't necessarily need higher than 2000 grit paper, although if you could find 3000 that would probably make your job a little easier.

Your wax wouldn't do you any good in the middle of the process, it wouldn't hurt and may enhance the appearance a little to put a coat of wax on when your done though.

I'd go out and buy some rubbing compound, I've always been satisfied with 3M products but others should do the job just as well. Then follow that with your Plastx or a true mildly abrasive paint polish between the compound and Plastx.

The Plastx is your final step that will restore the shine and clarity of the lens. If you sanded after that you'd be right back where you are now with the haze. The rubbing compound and polishing and plastx is to eliminate the haze from the sanding scratches.

There's a stickied thread at the top of the detailing forum on headlight restoration that would be a good read, I think it'd help clarify what's going on and what needs to be done to clear it up.

using ice polish its clear but now clear enough it limits the out put i want the crystal clear look like they were never there in the first place

it is clear but still hazy i want it as clear as possible
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_131.jpg

this is oem the right side of the lense has not been touched
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMAGE_132.jpg


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