yellohj

I have been reading all the internet has to offer on upgrading the stock stereo on my 2006 ES330. I am beginning the process to replace the HU with a Pioneer AVH- model. Either a P8400BH or P4400BH. I have a lot of questions and the other threads just don't have recent information.

Here is what I am using for the HU replacement:

Metra 99-8158G kit or a Lexus panel for Stereo with NAV (to hold 2-DIN stereo)
In-dash Receiver Kit (crutchfield ( trim filler on the side of the HU))
Metra Kit TYTO-01 Interface wiring harness to use existing amp and speakers.
Axxess ASWC (steering wheel control)
Metra 70-8114 (Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness for Axxess ASWC - aux input)

Once this is done. I expect to have the new HU intstalled. I expect that the stering wheel controls work to control volume and next track. I expect it to fit nicely in the metra kit with the spacers that Crutchfield will supply.

Now the questions. Does all this work in the 2006 ES330- never found an example anywhere that it works as expected. Has anyone ever replaced the HU and just left the stock amp and speakers? How does it sound? Any better, or does it actually make the stock speakers sound worse?

The HU will connect to the factory amp using the pre-outs, so I will not have any power from the HU to the speakers-only factory amp. From what I can tell the factory amp is Pioneer with an 8 in free-air sub and is a little over 80 watts. Can the car hold a 10" in the same space?

Is there a direct free-air sub that can just simply replace the factory one? What ohms is the factory one? 2? 4? 6? 8? I can not find this anywhere. Kicker makes a free-air sub replacement:
Kicker 10C82 or 10C88 2 or 8 ohm that I was considering. They run 50-100 watts RMS. Should I even bother with free-air? Next would be to move to an external mono amp and sub enclosue. Don't want to have to do that either.

The profile of the speakers on the door are low profile, so there is a small selection of speakers that fit the door. If I was to replace the speakers - then I would completely bypass the factory amp and add aditional multi-channel amp, and that would be a complete over haul- something that I am trying to not do.

Hopefully someone out there has some current input?

J

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure that Crutchfield is telling you that the ASWC works in your vehicle, but Metra says it doesn't. Since they make it, I'm pretty sure they would know, but you can feel free to try. I would like to see why they have a disparity between them and the manufacturer, though.

As for sounding better, in a word, no. You're adding another interface and more wiring to an already complicated system. It's not going to improve the end result because it's still going through the same amp and speakers. Yes, the signal going in may start off cleaner, but you degrade the signal every time it changes hands once out of the digital realm, so while a new deck may offer more features than your 6 year old one, it's not going to have an improvement in sound at the end once the handoffs are done.

You want better sound? Skip all the interfaces and crap and buy a decent set of speakers and amp for them. I know you said you're trying to avoid it, but if the goal is better sound, you have to have better gear. There are simply no shortcuts.

Big Mack

yellohj

Thanks Big Mack. I have seen on the site that axxess has to check compatibility that it doesn't work, but to call tech support. I will call them this week to see what they say. I just cancelled the order for the ASWC and 70-8814 harness

I am looking at the total cost for all the interface (crap) and see what I am spending, and will probably put that towards new speakers and amp if I can justify it.

In the begining I was just trying to simply swap the HU to get mobile video and apps with ihone intergration and blue tooth. I can live without steering wheel controls at this time. I am going to connect this through the factory amp and use the TYTO-01 for the short term with stock speakers. I wanted to keep this mod able to be reversed to get back to stock factory if I sell the car, but it is paid for, so I might just keep it long term.

I will evalute the savings and then be back with next questions on speakers and amps after I figure out my budget. I will try to post photos as I go, and time permits.

J

rajeev6

Although I see now that you're trying to get video and Bluetooth which may require HU to be replaced, I totally agree with Big Mac. I went against common recommendation to start with speakers - spent more than $500 on JBL MS-8 only to find out later that the stock speakers were crappy. I replaced them with JBL components and sound quality is very acceptable even without MS-8.

Also I agree with your Bluetooth requirement (I think it should be a must in all cars), I personally don't see any reason to have video in front seat. For Bluetooth alone, have you checked out external Bluetooth adapters from companies like Grom http://www.gromaudio.com/store/all-toy.html?

yellohj

ra,
I looked at that but the stock player doesn't support ipod integration at the level that I would like, since it doesn't support text. I want full contol and search of music. I also want the latest app radio features as well as blue tooth calling and streaming. I have the AVH-P8400BH HU here and the metra tyto-o1 amp integration here at my house. Once I get the dash kit I will install. I found that I can replace the 8" sub with another 2-ohm variety and it will sound decent. The Kicker 10C82 is a worth while upgrade for under $80 and while I am at it. I will build a better support, so the deck will not rattle so much when the sub starts pumping like in the stock today. If the sub sounds underpowered I will go to the next step and add a Alpine MRP-M500 to power the sub and bypass the amp at that time.

That's it for now. If anyone has anything to add I appreciate the input- there is nothing on this 06 ES330 anywhere on the web.

j

yellohj

Metra Axxess tech support says the ASWC does work with the car. I have wired all the parts to make it work and will replace the unit laater in the week. Here is a photo of the wiring of the ASWC the Pioneer AVH-P8400BH and tyto-01 wiring harness.

yellohj

Here is a little cleaner wiring picture that shows the simple wiring needed. Red, yellow, black (ground), blue/white all connected with posi-connectors and taped together for wire management bundle with the green parking brake wire. I have taped off the ends of the speaker wires from the HU wiring harness, because the tyto-01 wiring harness uses the RCA pre-outs on the HU. The ASWC uses the 3.5mm input of the HU for steering wheel remote controls.

From this point on it is just removing the old stereo and mounting and connecting the new to the car's wiring harness.

J

yellohj

I am done with the HU and existing amp integration. It does sound better than the old factory unit. The ASWC DOES work. The install took all of 30 minutes to rip out the old and put in the new. The longest time was the 3 screws and 2 bolts to take off the glove compartment to route the app cable to that location. The stereo is held in by 4 bolts everything else is clips.

J

tropez

That's a pretty big jump in color from the grey used around the temp controls to the grey used in the new mounting kit. Is it that noticeable when in the car or is it not a big deal? The grey looks to match the darker grey of the dash more than the factory grey of the plastic paneling.

yellohj

to each his own - I neither notice or care. I just enjoy it when I listen to it, or use the apps like Waze for social GPS driving connected to the car kit. When I sell the car- I swap it out. If it bothers you then obviously get the matching part for $200 more. Everything else applies and works together.

jozer1

Quick question , did you have some sort of wiring diagram to find out which wires were for what? I'm looking for a wiring diagram to decide if this is doable for me.

Christ117

All right everybody check this out okay have Alpine TV deck with the Alpine 450 amp which is 200 Watts RMS that's 50 Watts or a message channel that's over 100 watts per six and a half and those things scream I take the base out throw some meds and throw a lot of trouble and don't base them you don't need to get base from your six and a half if you have subs I've got two 12s two 10s pushed by a 2500 watt class d amp. What I've also done everybody thinks they're going to run 4 gauge and 8 and 2 gauge power wire to their amps well that's just plain as stupid if you look at your alternator it has a 8 gauge wire running from it to the battery so how are you going to pull two gauge power wire from a 8 gauge supply so go and I added another 4 gauge onto their 8 gauge ran it to my positive and then another new ground on the engine chassis another four gauge and your electrical system will be a lot better off and thank you.