Speaker Install SC430
06-16-07, 01:12 PM
#1
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Speaker Install - How To- SC430
I have finally gotten around to finishing the speaker replacement/upgrade on my wife’s 2002 SC430. The woofers in the doors sounded blown like has been commented on so many times here. We just got the car and I was committed to upgrading the system because the sound system sounded really bad. After getting into this project it reinforced my opinion of factory systems. That is the high end systems that they put in these cars have decent head units and amps but the speakers are way below what would be expected. I have the Bose system in my 350Z and the speakers in that system were cheap-cheap-cheap as well.
Here is the process for replacement of the ML speakers using ones that I acquired from Parts Express. Since I was retaining the factory head unit and amp for the front and rear speakers I matched the factory 8 ohm. As you will see I replaced the factory 16 ohm sub woofer with a Polk Audio 4 ohm powered by a MA Audio amp. This gave the system that much needed punch in the low end.
Remove the large screw shown here.
Another screw to remove.
Two screws holding the rubber bumper and the push plate.
There are three screws along the bottom.
There are two plastic clips. Be careful with these because the brake easily. (I know) They are already remove here.
One last screw under the arm rest. Then lift the panel outwards from the bottom to pop the plastic clips along the front and rear edge. Lift the panel out then up to remove. Place the panel on you knee and then reach around to disconnect the two cables for the seat memory and the light. Then remove the screw holding the door lever and remove that to free the panel.
Here is the process for replacement of the ML speakers using ones that I acquired from Parts Express. Since I was retaining the factory head unit and amp for the front and rear speakers I matched the factory 8 ohm. As you will see I replaced the factory 16 ohm sub woofer with a Polk Audio 4 ohm powered by a MA Audio amp. This gave the system that much needed punch in the low end.
Remove the large screw shown here.
Another screw to remove.
Two screws holding the rubber bumper and the push plate.
There are three screws along the bottom.
There are two plastic clips. Be careful with these because the brake easily. (I know) They are already remove here.
One last screw under the arm rest. Then lift the panel outwards from the bottom to pop the plastic clips along the front and rear edge. Lift the panel out then up to remove. Place the panel on you knee and then reach around to disconnect the two cables for the seat memory and the light. Then remove the screw holding the door lever and remove that to free the panel.
Last edited by ZGone; 03-29-12 at 07:01 AM.
06-16-07, 01:14 PM
#2
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SC430 Speaker Cont..
Cont…
Here are the speakers specs. for the ML system.
The front 6x9 is easy to remove as a complete unit.
I didn’t replace the mid and tweeter at this time. Just because they appear to be fine. Maybe at a later date.
I decided to go with a 6.5” mid/sub replacement. This is a Pioneer 8 ohm poly woofer. I cut the MDF plate to accept the new speaker and used the original mounting ring with the wiring connection.
Here is the door with the EDead installed. I removed the plastic sheet because it was causing some vibrations. Much better with the EDead.
This is why the original ML 6x9 was buzzing. Both door speakers were in this condition. Big disappointment for a car in this price range. The voice coil would actually rattle when the speaker was shaken by hand.
Here are the speakers specs. for the ML system.
The front 6x9 is easy to remove as a complete unit.
I didn’t replace the mid and tweeter at this time. Just because they appear to be fine. Maybe at a later date.
I decided to go with a 6.5” mid/sub replacement. This is a Pioneer 8 ohm poly woofer. I cut the MDF plate to accept the new speaker and used the original mounting ring with the wiring connection.
Here is the door with the EDead installed. I removed the plastic sheet because it was causing some vibrations. Much better with the EDead.
This is why the original ML 6x9 was buzzing. Both door speakers were in this condition. Big disappointment for a car in this price range. The voice coil would actually rattle when the speaker was shaken by hand.
Last edited by ZGone; 03-29-12 at 06:45 AM.
06-16-07, 01:16 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
SC430 Speakers Cont...
Removal the rear seat is very easy to access the rear panel and sub woofer and rear side speakers.
Once you access the sub, just remove and disassemble to reuse the mounting bracket.
I went with a 8’ Polk 4 ohm. To get the stock bracket to fit the rubber ring on the sub was removed. It fit the bracket really nice after removing it’s ring.
Now to access the rear speakers you need to remove the side panels. There is one bolt that is under the small plate where the seat belt retracts. Once you have that plate off you will see the bolt. The rest of the anchor bolts are obvious.
Once you access the sub, just remove and disassemble to reuse the mounting bracket.
I went with a 8’ Polk 4 ohm. To get the stock bracket to fit the rubber ring on the sub was removed. It fit the bracket really nice after removing it’s ring.
Now to access the rear speakers you need to remove the side panels. There is one bolt that is under the small plate where the seat belt retracts. Once you have that plate off you will see the bolt. The rest of the anchor bolts are obvious.
Last edited by ZGone; 03-29-12 at 07:00 AM.
06-16-07, 01:18 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
SC430 Speakers Cont...
There are three bolts holding the rear speaker bracket. It then has an hanger on top holding it on.
[IMG]webpages.charter.net/sw_womble/SC430Speakers/rear1.JPG[/IMG]
I replaced the rears with some 4.5” Goldwoods. The fit wasn’t perfect but worked well enough.
Run the power line to the amp through the rubber grommet near the battery.
Remove the alarm horn to get to the grommet.
Make a small cut and feed the power line in.
Just keep pushing the wire in and it should appear in the passenger footwell.
Run the power wire under the door sill panels and into the trunk near the sub opening. I added Edead to most of the rear panel.
[IMG]webpages.charter.net/sw_womble/SC430Speakers/rear1.JPG[/IMG]
I replaced the rears with some 4.5” Goldwoods. The fit wasn’t perfect but worked well enough.
Run the power line to the amp through the rubber grommet near the battery.
Remove the alarm horn to get to the grommet.
Make a small cut and feed the power line in.
Just keep pushing the wire in and it should appear in the passenger footwell.
Run the power wire under the door sill panels and into the trunk near the sub opening. I added Edead to most of the rear panel.
Last edited by ZGone; 03-29-12 at 06:41 AM.
06-16-07, 01:19 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
SC430 Speakers Last One....
Remove the trunk panels to access the ML amp to get the input for the new sub amp.
Access the ML amp to get to the speaker wiring. This was the most difficult part because of the area restrictions. Remove the bolts (3) that hold the two cross braces above the amp. I then just pushed the braces up and over bending them slightly out of the way. I think you could remove them if you can access them from behind the back seat. The bolt holding the amp in are then easily accessable with a 12-16" extension w/ 10 mm socket. There is enough play in the cables to lift the amp up and out without disconnecting. If you do disconnect the amp, remember to initialize the system again after replacement. This is done by putting the key on "ACC" for 5 minutes so the amp can boot and read the system settings. After 5 minutes tune ingition off for 1 min, then turn back to ACC or ON and power the system on.
Since the head unit uses a balanced output I decided to go with a line out converter to the front L and R mid/sub speakers for the new sub amp. The wiring is as follows for the front woofer outputs:
pink L+
purple L-
green R+
blue R-
white w/ black stripe - ground
gray 12+ volt acc line for sub amp
You can see that I initially tried to get signal to the amp using the sub outputs. That's the two connectors to the blue w/ red and red w/ blue connections with the black splice wires. The sound output was no good so decided to go with the line out conversion.
Everything is all wired and finished with the amp in place. I used a MA Audio unit with bridged output to the sub.
All I can say is that the sound is awesome and far superior to the factory setup.
Cheers.
Access the ML amp to get to the speaker wiring. This was the most difficult part because of the area restrictions. Remove the bolts (3) that hold the two cross braces above the amp. I then just pushed the braces up and over bending them slightly out of the way. I think you could remove them if you can access them from behind the back seat. The bolt holding the amp in are then easily accessable with a 12-16" extension w/ 10 mm socket. There is enough play in the cables to lift the amp up and out without disconnecting. If you do disconnect the amp, remember to initialize the system again after replacement. This is done by putting the key on "ACC" for 5 minutes so the amp can boot and read the system settings. After 5 minutes tune ingition off for 1 min, then turn back to ACC or ON and power the system on.
Since the head unit uses a balanced output I decided to go with a line out converter to the front L and R mid/sub speakers for the new sub amp. The wiring is as follows for the front woofer outputs:
pink L+
purple L-
green R+
blue R-
white w/ black stripe - ground
gray 12+ volt acc line for sub amp
You can see that I initially tried to get signal to the amp using the sub outputs. That's the two connectors to the blue w/ red and red w/ blue connections with the black splice wires. The sound output was no good so decided to go with the line out conversion.
Everything is all wired and finished with the amp in place. I used a MA Audio unit with bridged output to the sub.
All I can say is that the sound is awesome and far superior to the factory setup.
Cheers.
Last edited by ZGone; 03-29-12 at 07:10 AM.
06-17-07, 12:51 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Nice work--
I'd say there may be some stronger choices for your door midwoofers though--
zalytron.com is selling some older JMlab 6.5's with the polyglass cone for $60/pair --
They're the same as focal, as in the same company-- just old stock--
They should be far superior and a little closer impedance match as well--
I like the writeup and the upgrade--
Nice work!
I'd say there may be some stronger choices for your door midwoofers though--
zalytron.com is selling some older JMlab 6.5's with the polyglass cone for $60/pair --
They're the same as focal, as in the same company-- just old stock--
They should be far superior and a little closer impedance match as well--
I like the writeup and the upgrade--
Nice work!
06-17-07, 02:49 PM
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
MJH,
Those look nice. But the biggest problem was the final mounting depth. You can't go beyond about 3" because the window just clears the magnet with rolled down. I found the selections were almost endless and difficult to make when you start looking at raw 8 ohm drivers.
Cheers
Those look nice. But the biggest problem was the final mounting depth. You can't go beyond about 3" because the window just clears the magnet with rolled down. I found the selections were almost endless and difficult to make when you start looking at raw 8 ohm drivers.
Cheers
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06-22-07, 08:19 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Parts Express
MadiSound
Just keep in mind that you only have about 3" top mounting depth to clear the windows. I used the additional 1/4" MDF for mounting the 6.5" and still had about 1/4 to o1/2" clearance for the door panel. Could have possible gone with a top mounting depth of 3.5" but didn't want to risk having the window hit the magnet or not being able to get the door panel back on. I would NEVER replace with OEM speakers because regardless of the maker or brand of the system, the speakers are always the place where they skimp on quality. This is because they sound OK when they are brand new but do not last and there is definate room for major improvement. The upgrade I did sounds so good I actually drained the battery just sitting and listening to it (It's my wife's car so I don't drive, just tinker with it).
Cheers.
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EJJ52 (12-17-18)
08-10-07, 06:07 AM
#12
Question for ZGone...
Unfortunately, I'm among the growing number of folks with a blown lower door speaker. I've checked w/ both of the vendors you suggested and neither seem to have an 8ohm speaker. I described the 6.5" speaker you had to the Parts Express guy and he thought it might be a "lower end" home stereo speaker.
I've also called several other local and non-local vendors and no one seems to have any 8ohm speakers although several had 4ohm that they "thought" would work.
I really don't want to buy a new amplifier and would just like to replace the to 6x9" door-mounted speakers.
Anyone know where I can find something suitable and safe for the existing stereo? BTW, the local dealer here in Nashville wants $280 for one speaker which I assume is the same poor quality as the original.
I've also called several other local and non-local vendors and no one seems to have any 8ohm speakers although several had 4ohm that they "thought" would work.
I really don't want to buy a new amplifier and would just like to replace the to 6x9" door-mounted speakers.
Anyone know where I can find something suitable and safe for the existing stereo? BTW, the local dealer here in Nashville wants $280 for one speaker which I assume is the same poor quality as the original.
08-25-07, 08:03 PM
#15
Rookie
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, I'm among the growing number of folks with a blown lower door speaker. I've checked w/ both of the vendors you suggested and neither seem to have an 8ohm speaker. I described the 6.5" speaker you had to the Parts Express guy and he thought it might be a "lower end" home stereo speaker.
I've also called several other local and non-local vendors and no one seems to have any 8ohm speakers although several had 4ohm that they "thought" would work.
I really don't want to buy a new amplifier and would just like to replace the to 6x9" door-mounted speakers.
Anyone know where I can find something suitable and safe for the existing stereo? BTW, the local dealer here in Nashville wants $280 for one speaker which I assume is the same poor quality as the original.
I've also called several other local and non-local vendors and no one seems to have any 8ohm speakers although several had 4ohm that they "thought" would work.
I really don't want to buy a new amplifier and would just like to replace the to 6x9" door-mounted speakers.
Anyone know where I can find something suitable and safe for the existing stereo? BTW, the local dealer here in Nashville wants $280 for one speaker which I assume is the same poor quality as the original.