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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by GS FONZy
that looks good, i think it looked better with the amp showing. still looks great though.
Thanks, Since its my daily driver, and i want to keep junk in the trunk, I really don't have any choice.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jdmdaddy
Looks great! That's a very nice install.

-Craig
Originally Posted by TeflonGS
Real nice work!

Originally Posted by PIMPALA-SS
looks great for a DIY'er!!
Originally Posted by PureDrifter
love the way u did the box, do you have any pics of it off the car?
Thanks guys

PureDrifter - When built the box, I wasn't planning on posting pics, so no pics of the enclosure.

Last edited by vin 78; Jan 9, 2007 at 09:04 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:11 PM
  #18  
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This are what I have in mind....
Upper trunk/rear deck cover
New face plate
iPod trim panel in center armrest

I hope I could finish before school begins at the end of the month.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:14 AM
  #19  
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man awesome write up. id like to get some more info from ya seeing as how we have the same cars and i admire yours from afar. once again, great install/write up bro!
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:03 PM
  #20  
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I decided to get out of the trunk and work on the h/u faceplate.

Eclipse AVN6600 bolted on...


Protection...


Scrap 1/2" MDF...


Measure from each edge to the radio...



Transfer to MDF (Be sure to use the factory radio's face plate for a template)...


Ruff cut...


Use double sided tape to tape a straight edge onto the MDF....


Cut with router...


Finished...
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #21  
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Chamfer (I think that's how its spelled) 45 degree cut, just for looks...


Since the it tapers off behind the radio, I have to make it thinner, but still allow an area where the plate bolts onto the radio...


Mock up...


Problem, the arms that swings out sticks out too much I'll have to modify the face plate...



After some filing and sanding it fits Pretty good...


Paint...


2 layers of primer...


Color coat. This is my 3rd "mist" layer out of 6 total, its still tacky so the should the sheen should be duller...



I just sprayed my 6 mist of color, and i'll let it dry overnight. I'll mount and post it tomorrow.

Last edited by vin 78; Jan 10, 2007 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:16 PM
  #22  
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i really like the way you did this DIY- excellent job- props to you- the end product is gonna be sweet
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #23  
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After letting the paint dry overnight, here's the results...

Ghetto brackets. Notice that I enlarged the radio mounting holes so the radio would sit back further.


Epoxy...


Attached...


Installed pics...



Last edited by vin 78; Jan 10, 2007 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by iasc300
i really like the way you did this DIY- excellent job- props to you- the end product is gonna be sweet
Thanks dude, I appreciate that!
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 06:05 PM
  #25  
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Looks good for looking like stock... Nice job on the install..
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #26  
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Wow that looks AMAZING. I bookmarked this thread so when I eventually get to installing my navi unit in my LS, I'm going to do it the same way! The problem is I don't have the tools to make as precision cuts as you do... any suggestions to get around that? I'm using a jig saw and a dremel. I use the dremel to make circular cuts, and the jigsaw works okay to make straight cuts... I undercut and then pull out the dremel and sandpaper and try to make them as straight as possible.

The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.

Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.

Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!

I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Suneet
Wow that looks AMAZING. I bookmarked this thread so when I eventually get to installing my navi unit in my LS, I'm going to do it the same way! The problem is I don't have the tools to make as precision cuts as you do... any suggestions to get around that? I'm using a jig saw and a dremel. I use the dremel to make circular cuts, and the jigsaw works okay to make straight cuts... I undercut and then pull out the dremel and sandpaper and try to make them as straight as possible.

The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.

Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.

Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!

I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
Thanks for the nice words.
For making accurate cuts, a router with a straight edge is pretty much as close as it gets. You could get away with a jigsaw, but you will need to do some sanding with a sand block (to keep it straight). I don't recommend making accurate cuts with a Dremel, unless you have the circle attachment. I'd rather use a jigsaw for straight cuts.

I painted the primer and paint on while it was out of the car. That way I could get all the corners. As far as the paint thickness its pretty much less then a human hair, so don't worry too much about the paint buildup, as long as you fine sand in between steps
For the faceplate, I usually cut within 1/16" (using the router), anything closer then that you will run into the risk of a stuck face place then the face plate sticks out.

I'm not too sure what time correction is, please explain.

Good luck with your install.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #28  
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can i marry you?
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Justakid
can i marry you?

Sorry dude I can't, I'm a guy, I appreciate the proposal though . That picture in my avatar isn't me, lol
- unless you're a girl

Last edited by vin 78; Jan 10, 2007 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #30  
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Can I reiterate how amazing a job you did?

Yeah I have the circle attachment with the dremel. Thats why I like it for circular cuts. I guess I'm going to have to invest in a router and a table. Thats like a good $300 bucks. I guess its worth it in the end.

I was hoping the paint thickness would be greater, so I could get away with less accurate cuts. Maybe I can use bondo in that situation?

Time correction in the deck allows you to correct for the fact that you're sitting much closer to the left speaker than the right. It typically either lets you specify delays in miliseconds, or it lets you input the distance from your ears to each speaker in the car and then calculates the appropriate adjustment, so the sweet spot isn't in the center of the car, but closer to where you're sitting.

Got any fiberglassing tips or tutorials?

Originally Posted by vin 78
Thanks for the nice words.
For making accurate cuts, a router with a straight edge is pretty much as close as it gets. You could get away with a jigsaw, but you will need to do some sanding with a sand block (to keep it straight). I don't recommend making accurate cuts with a Dremel, unless you have the circle attachment. I'd rather use a jigsaw for straight cuts.

I painted the primer and paint on while it was out of the car. That way I could get all the corners. As far as the paint thickness its pretty much less then a human hair, so don't worry too much about the paint buildup, as long as you fine sand in between steps
For the faceplate, I usually cut within 1/16" (using the router), anything closer then that you will run into the risk of a stuck face place then the face plate sticks out.

I'm not too sure what time correction is, please explain.

Good luck with your install.
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