Seattle SCone

http://store.myradiostore.com/omdiinnofiei.html is the PIE part I used as my DC blocker.

Hohlraum

This thread needs to be bumped up. I'm seeing 'alternative to FM modulator' posts again. This is the best option we've got IMO.

tonydt1g3r

Any updates on this? and Also with the navi? it would be nice to have a complete seperate box that has RCA inputs to do it all, so we could just plug up a XBOX or PS2 ect. And also to add subs is there an output on the stock amp we can tap for the lows or do you need to use a low frequency filter and attach that to some of the speaker wires?

salimshah

Contributors to this thread seem to be the most succesful in integerting an ipod to Lexus.

I am trying another approach, but essentially the way to create the Aux-in is the same as described here. My project is my sons' SC4 with Pioneer changer in the trunk [non-nav]. I traced down the wires near the plug behind the astray and disconnected the l+, l-, r+ and r- from the connector with intention of leading the wires to a switch.

To confirm that I have selected the right wires, I turned the HU on, but the HU fails to get into cd mode. If I reconnect the wires the HU is able to switch to CD. I have double checked and confirmed that I have inded cut the line-in from cd player.

Insight?

Salim

spyderdude

http://www.myradiostore.us/noise-fil...rs/mpss-2.html
the above module will automatically switch to the primary audio source. If we use IPOD as the primary, the audio should switch automatically whenever ipod is on. Would it also serve as the DC blocker?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Guys, the biggest thing to worry about when you do these mods is that you preserve the integrity of the signal shielding, and that when you wire additional wires into the factory system, they are kept absolutely as short as possible so as to not allow long paths for noise to sneak in.

Notice that Seattle SCone was smart, in that he used Cat5 twisted pair cable to route and extend the signal wires. It is best to use a shielded version of this. The shield of this added cable can be tied to the existing shield that is on the factory wires, and the twisted pair wires maintain good noise immunity. The twisted pairs also will help prevent crosstalk of the signal lines. The only quibble I might have with that wiring is the gauge of the Cat 5 cable, which is a bit lean (thin), such that its resistance is not optimum for audio, but will not make a ton of difference if lines are kept short.

It is not really a good idea to use relays for this unless you are an expert at doing relays for audio, as it is too easy to get noise coupling in. A switch is a safer bet.

Jerry

spyderdude

i installed karmon Kardon drive and play. http://www.harmankardon.com/drive-1/how_it_works.aspx I intercepted the input feed that goes to the amp. I installed a AV swich from Radio shack which uses the RCA cables. i thought it will be better since the switch is just a push button, and all connections should be shielded. i also attached RCA cable directly to the intercepted point. The set up is great, and i can switch over between harmon kardon and the factory radio very easily. The problem now is that i hear a hissing noise at the higher volume. Is it because of some connection issue? my rca is about 6ft long in length. could that be a possible cause for this? Should i use RJ45 instead of RCA? I'm currently getting the hissing noise even on the factory radio sound.. Also i haven't installed the DC blocker because i figured the HK Drive and play should out the balanced audio input.

brianley

I wanted to thank everyone, particularly Seattle SCone for supplying this info. I was rather concerned about cutting the wires on a perfectly working system, (particularly when getting a dealer to fix it if I messed it up would probably cost big bucks) but the instructions supplied here were awesome. I used this switch with screw terminals since I'm not much of a soldering fan:

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...geitem=1&new=y

Then crimped spade lugs onto the wire ends (package of 20 $1.69 at Radio Shack) and used the PIE ground loop isolator as mentioned in this thread. Only place I slightly differed is I used the AirClick wireless remote rather than the Apple wired remote. Only $13.99 online at CompUSA and thought it might come in handy outside the car.

brianley

Here's the AirClick. I tried the remote in a number of locations, but found attached to the driver's door arm rest to be my favorite. Unfortunately the remote doesn't come in black, and is a little too large to fit in the coin holder. But it seems to work very well.

brianley

Here's the remote attached to the driver's door with the included clip.

If anyone is interested, I have another 4 pole switch (part # 7920008) and a Monster Cassette adapter for $5 each (to cover shipping).

Hohlraum

Bump. Useful to other popular threads right now.

vstyle444

Hohlraum: you know how to hook it up to 01 gs300?what i need to get?thankz

Hohlraum

i haven't done it yet. going to look at it in a couple weeks though. if you have the ML/Nav setup i'm sure its nearly identical to what is described in this thread. beyond that I don't know.

Daveychan

First, sorry for bumping such an old thread! BUT, this seems to be the best tutorial around for this "AUX hack"! (MUCH appreciation for the information posted here!)

So, the reason for this post, is that i'm a total dork and very nervous about doing this. (I've already tried a GROM adapter with no luck (Lexus SC430 - 2001 - Japanese indigenous/premiere model), so i'm returning that now and I'll give this method a shot.)

After reading through this several times, i've created a "layman's" wiring diagram for myself. I'd like to post this here in order to confirm that my information is correct.

Would you mind taking a look at it and correcting any mistakes i might have made? I'd hate to ruin my stereo because i didn't bother to check my plan with people who actually know what they are doing...

Please and Thanks!

Regtr2000

This is great info!!! Does anyone have any idea how much all the accessories would cost to set this up? I want to have an idea before I go to a custom audio shop to see if I can get someone to build it out for me.