Does parking the car reduce the performance
Does parking the car for a week or less and not using it on a daily basis reduce its performance and disrupt its work?
I noticed in my isf when it was cold, and after parking for several days the work is not clear and stable, but after using it for a while and driving it on a public street the condition improved
knowing that I did Full vehicle maintenance including injector cleaning, spark plug change and complete pump.
When accelerating , the car feels fast and fine, and sometimes I feel heavy at high acceleration
car modifications:
ppe headers
xforce exhaust
kn drop oem box filter
skiky driveshaft
oil separator rr
Front rim 8.5 245/35 , rear 9.5 with 285/30 hankook s1 evo3
I noticed in my isf when it was cold, and after parking for several days the work is not clear and stable, but after using it for a while and driving it on a public street the condition improved
knowing that I did Full vehicle maintenance including injector cleaning, spark plug change and complete pump.
When accelerating , the car feels fast and fine, and sometimes I feel heavy at high acceleration
car modifications:
ppe headers
xforce exhaust
kn drop oem box filter
skiky driveshaft
oil separator rr
Front rim 8.5 245/35 , rear 9.5 with 285/30 hankook s1 evo3
On a side note, your AO separator is known to leak. If it leaks, I can cause a lean condition, which will effect power. Just make sure it’s sealed up tight if you want to run it. I’d recommend converting it to AN fittings.
I leave it on a battery maintainer and start it up every few weeks. If there is a break in the weather I'll take it out for a bit.
I've been putting 12-15k miles a year on the F since I bought it back in 2011. Over the last 2 years of being in this pandemic, I think Ive only put on maybe a thousand miles? Car has been parked in the garage but I'll still go for a drive every 2-3 weeks. Car fires up no issues every time, drives and performs exactly the way when I parked it. As Rickna mentioned, put a battery tender on it if you're going to leave it parked for long stretches, but your performance should not suffer one bit.
I would look into the behavior of the knock correction values and the long term fuel trims. Make sure the KCLV isn't bouncing around and that the LTFT is trending close to 0 at idle.
If you disconnected the battery to perform maintenance, which definitely happens during a spark plug change, the ECU will reset all learned values and base timing of KCLV will be reset to default value of 15. The car will then need to be driven around under various loads to re learn and advance timing. I am not clear on the timeline of your events but this could be what you're experiencing.
Did you use Denso spark plugs? If so where did you buy them? Denso's are notorious for being counterfeited if not bought from an authorized retailer. Most people report misfires when installing counterfeits.
If you disconnected the battery to perform maintenance, which definitely happens during a spark plug change, the ECU will reset all learned values and base timing of KCLV will be reset to default value of 15. The car will then need to be driven around under various loads to re learn and advance timing. I am not clear on the timeline of your events but this could be what you're experiencing.
Did you use Denso spark plugs? If so where did you buy them? Denso's are notorious for being counterfeited if not bought from an authorized retailer. Most people report misfires when installing counterfeits.
Trending Topics
The only long term concern is the bearings will dry out over time. Usually about a month. So the initial startup after sitting a month (or more) will wear your rod and main bearings faster than if you kept using the vehicle regularly. If you're really worried about this, get an Accusump with a solenoid valve you can switch to prelube the bearings before starting after sitting a long time. I know Supra guys who have done this and they claim it has extended the service life on their 2JZs.
My IS F has sat for a week or two without running and never been anything even remotely like an issue when I've started it up after sitting. But, I drive my car. A lot. 190k miles+ right now.
My IS F has sat for a week or two without running and never been anything even remotely like an issue when I've started it up after sitting. But, I drive my car. A lot. 190k miles+ right now.
The only long term concern is the bearings will dry out over time. Usually about a month. So the initial startup after sitting a month (or more) will wear your rod and main bearings faster than if you kept using the vehicle regularly. If you're really worried about this, get an Accusump with a solenoid valve you can switch to prelube the bearings before starting after sitting a long time. I know Supra guys who have done this and they claim it has extended the service life on their 2JZs.
My IS F has sat for a week or two without running and never been anything even remotely like an issue when I've started it up after sitting. But, I drive my car. A lot. 190k miles+ right now.
My IS F has sat for a week or two without running and never been anything even remotely like an issue when I've started it up after sitting. But, I drive my car. A lot. 190k miles+ right now.
There should be no ill performance effects from storing a car. I've put my "fun" cars aways for winter and have no problems in the spring. Everyone has their method but here's mine. Simple and car comes out in the spring fresh and ready for a good drive
-Fresh oil change followed by a thorough drive getting up to operating temps
-Full tank of fuel
-Fresh wash/detail. Wait until car is completely dry before throwing cover over it
-Over inflate the tires
-Hook up to a trickle charger
I do not believe in just letting the car idle periodically as you really need to drive it to get everything up to operating temps (not just oil and coolant). Once my car goes into storage for winter, it sits for 4 months untouched. Starts right up in the spring and feels like a whole new car again!
-Fresh oil change followed by a thorough drive getting up to operating temps
-Full tank of fuel
-Fresh wash/detail. Wait until car is completely dry before throwing cover over it
-Over inflate the tires
-Hook up to a trickle charger
I do not believe in just letting the car idle periodically as you really need to drive it to get everything up to operating temps (not just oil and coolant). Once my car goes into storage for winter, it sits for 4 months untouched. Starts right up in the spring and feels like a whole new car again!
Last edited by b15; Jan 8, 2022 at 07:30 AM.
My car takes 30 minutes to get to full operating temp from just idling in the winter. I’m not a fan of doing it, but I go back and forth between worry of bearing wear from not keeping it lubed up.
Starting up, waiting until the idle speed drops, and driving at lower rpm as talked about in the engine oil temp thread that's floating around near the front page would serve you and your engine a lot better.
Prolonged idling means a prolonged rich state which means excess gasoline acting as a solvent and breaking down oil that would otherwise be coating your cylinders/pistons, the exact opposite of keeping it lubed up as you mentioned. Lengthy idling also burns a lot of fuel unnecessarily.
Starting up, waiting until the idle speed drops, and driving at lower rpm as talked about in the engine oil temp thread that's floating around near the front page would serve you and your engine a lot better.
Starting up, waiting until the idle speed drops, and driving at lower rpm as talked about in the engine oil temp thread that's floating around near the front page would serve you and your engine a lot better.
Prolonged idling means a prolonged rich state which means excess gasoline acting as a solvent and breaking down oil that would otherwise be coating your cylinders/pistons, the exact opposite of keeping it lubed up as you mentioned. Lengthy idling also burns a lot of fuel unnecessarily.
Starting up, waiting until the idle speed drops, and driving at lower rpm as talked about in the engine oil temp thread that's floating around near the front page would serve you and your engine a lot better.
Starting up, waiting until the idle speed drops, and driving at lower rpm as talked about in the engine oil temp thread that's floating around near the front page would serve you and your engine a lot better.
However, I do see regular idling sessions for fear of bearing wear. For me there's only one "dry" start like this a season and unless there's something seriously wrong with the engines lubrication system, the oil will flow through pretty quickly. I've done my method for the last 10 years across several different cars and haven't had any issues. At the end of the day, research and just do what makes you sleep better!










