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from memory weds are the lightest wheel.. there is a new weds tc105x which is being touted to be even lighter than the original
These look good but offsets aren’t ideal. The 18x9 et 35 would work... but a 9.5 et 35 would get into the quarter panels. Are these as good of quality as enkei, or better?
Originally Posted by FNSSESPORT
I really like the PF01’s and they're a great value. If money isnt a concern, I’d go with TWS Forged T66-F’s. They come in at 7.86kgs (17.33lbs) for a 18 x 9.5 +40 offset. But theyre also about $750.00/wheel.
-R
I just looked at the TWS, they are the best looking wheel talked about so far. Maybe overall favorite. I wonder if their forging process is as good as Volk or BBS. A lot of companies cast the wheels and then forged them as the last step, but I don’t consider that a true forged wheel. That’s a ton of money, especially if the wheels didn’t start life as an aluminum block and pressed into a wheel like a Volk and BBS does.
Originally Posted by Meraki Autoworks
You can always grab some Enkei's.. Pretty light and cheap.
Contact us for pricing.
-Josh
these are by far the most wallet friendly, but I read these will flex under hard cornering with a heavy car. This car will slowly evolve into a race car after I own a place with a garage. So I don’t want to buy parts that need replaced. I had RPF1s in the past and they worked great. They seemed solid enough.
I just looked at the TWS, they are the best looking wheel talked about so far. Maybe overall favorite. I wonder if their forging process is as good as Volk or BBS. A lot of companies cast the wheels and then forged them as the last step, but I don’t consider that a true forged wheel. That’s a ton of money, especially if the wheels didn’t start life as an aluminum block and pressed into a wheel like a Volk and BBS does.
I can't say for sure, because I've obviously never been to their factory, but my money is on they're truly forged and at minimum equal to Volks or BBS (and by "my money" I mean I own a set, so literally!). They were the manufacturer for the both the Magnesium forged and aluminum forged Lexus IS-F CCS-P wheels, I don't know of many other companies that manufacturer Mg forged wheels. I think they're under-appreciated because the don't market as heavily as BBS and RAYS, at least not in North America.
Have you considered going with seventeens in the quest for an 11?
For my drag setup I recently went from old skool gold Advan Rg 18's to some WedsSport SA - 72R 17" Wide Spec. They're 17 x 10+55 (OEM offset), 19.8 lb & just $370 in black.
Have you considered going with seventeens in the quest for an 11?
For my drag setup I recently went from old skool gold Advan Rg 18's to some WedsSport SA - 72R 17" Wide Spec. They're 17 x 10+55 (OEM offset), 19.8 lb & just $370 in black.
I thought 17s don’t fit the front due to brake size? I want a 11 second street car. If it runs 11.9 at the track, it should drive home like that and be able to run it every day (imo).
So I am pretty determined to get my car into the 11s. I currently have header and exhaust. I will do a tune and intake, and want to reduce my rotational mass. Whaat are the lightest wheels we can fit? So far it looks like PF01s and TE37s are 18 pounds in an 18, and RPF1s are 17.5 pounds. I may pickup 2 piece rotors as well. Does anyone make carbon drive shafts for the ISF?
I hope the above with sticky tires and good conditions will yield 11 second passes consistently.
TWS forged T-66 F wheels weigh in at 7.49 kg or 16.50 lbs.
18 x 9.5 +40 offset.
You can also order customised offsets and widths with these wheels which I see an advantage over other JDM wheel makers.
Last edited by autoz4me; Jul 20, 2018 at 03:27 PM.
I thought 17s don’t fit the front due to brake size? I want a 11 second street car. If it runs 11.9 at the track, it should drive home like that and be able to run it every day (imo).
Drag radials are legal for use on public roads, and I operate my isf on the street so equipped.
Every day, huh?? Did the climate change deniers cancel winter in Indiana?
Drag radials are legal for use on public roads, and I operate my isf on the street so equipped.
Every day, huh?? Did the climate change deniers cancel winter in Indiana?
I daily drive my F for the most part during the good weather seasons. When chemicals start to hit the road, the F gets parked and the IS350 gets driven. The 350 also randomly is driven by the wife during summer or if we have days of rain by me mostly because cleaning the F by hand is a pain.
i have a buddy who drives on drag radials and he says they suck when wet and last like 3000 miles. He said he is limited to 10 mph in a good storm. What tires do you use? I was looking at something like the sport cup 2 over drag radials, but if there is a decent drag radials for an unexpected downpour when I have 2 little girls in a he backseat, I am all ears. I also want at least a season out of tires, which includes the drag strip and probably 5000 miles, up to 7000 miles of road. I mix my fun car with Dad duties, and safety is always priority for the pretty little ladies.
I've been lazy and have kept my track wheels on the rear with RE-71R tires for the past year or so...daily driven in warmer weather. They aren't too grippy until warmed up, but I've had no issues driving conservatively in the rain with them. They work pretty well on the drag strip and would be a better alternative to daily driving a DR.
Bringing this back up. It’s time to buy some wheels and tires and prepare for next season. I’m either going with an 18 x 9.5 et 45 Volks and running 275/35/18 R comp tires, something like a Toyo R888R or similar, or I’m going to go with a reverse staggered 17x9.5 et 45 rear and 18x9.5 et 45 front in wed sport Tc105x.
The wedsports are the only way to run a relatively wide drag radial, there are no drag radials in 275/35/18. I would try to squeeze in a 275/40/17 MT Street SS.
my question is, on a car with a 2000 rpm stall, does it really matter if I run a drag radial or just regular R comp tires? Between both sets, the total weight difference is almost non existent. The only real difference is rear tire construction. Since we can’t launch at a high RPM, does tire wrinkle really matter? Drag radials don’t wrinkle as much even on higher HP cars, and bias ply is out of the question since this car sees kids regularly. If it won’t make a difference, I think the Volks will look better and will arguably be much stronger for my crappy streets.
Bringing this back up. It’s time to buy some wheels and tires and prepare for next season. I’m either going with an 18 x 9.5 et 45 Volks and running 275/35/18 R comp tires, something like a Toyo R888R or similar, or I’m going to go with a reverse staggered 17x9.5 et 45 rear and 18x9.5 et 45 front in wed sport Tc105x.
The wedsports are the only way to run a relatively wide drag radial, there are no drag radials in 275/35/18. I would try to squeeze in a 275/40/17 MT Street SS.
my question is, on a car with a 2000 rpm stall, does it really matter if I run a drag radial or just regular R comp tires? Between both sets, the total weight difference is almost non existent. The only real difference is rear tire construction. Since we can’t launch at a high RPM, does tire wrinkle really matter? Drag radials don’t wrinkle as much even on higher HP cars, and bias ply is out of the question since this car sees kids regularly. If it won’t make a difference, I think the Volks will look better and will arguably be much stronger for my crappy streets.
If you're staying NA then the R888R will be all that you need. I could only see the MT being beneficial if you plan on running nitrous or a SC. It looks like people have had great luck going with a 245/40/18 on a narrower wheel as well and that would also be lighter.
The MT will wrinkle and flex, but it’s hard to imagine that’s really needed with a 1500-2000 rpm stall. I may be wrong, I’m hoping some tire / drag gurus will chime in.