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Any "mechanic in a can" is a complete crap shoot.
GM top engine cleaner is all I ever use to clear up misfires. If that doesn't work, most cars w/o port injection need a walnut blast, however not the case with the ISF in particular.
All said and done it's looking like upwards of 5k and I haven't totalled everything yet.
Do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. Sounds like piston rings or valve seals. A boroscope could confirm this.
Iinitially I was going the used engine route, but upon arrival the unit had major casting damage i was not comfortable with resulting in my full teardown. I'd have my car back on the road if that wasn't the case lol.
RR charges upwards of 7k, but don't quote me.
It should also be noted I did some upgrades during the process which have significantly driven the cost up. Forged pistons alone were almost 2k.
Thanks...
In the exhaust ports there are two shelves protruding just below the srat. Is there a water jacket between them and plug hole? If not, do you plan to clean them up?
This is just me but I polish the exhaust ports and leave the intakes rough but smooth.
Also, how well do all of the ports match? Do the gaskets align 100% on both surfaces to at least confirm there are protruding edges hindering flow? Thats not to say bigger is better just looking for smooth transitions from component to component.
Clarion, look up a product by Yamaha outboard motors called "Ring Free"... Spendy but said to work miracles.
It's added to the fuel. When done dump the oil for fresh lube and run it hard up the longest steepest hill you can find making it work WHILE keeping the RPMs up.
Thanks...
In the exhaust ports there are two shelves protruding just below the srat. Is there a water jacket between them and plug hole? If not, do you plan to clean them up?
This is just me but I polish the exhaust ports and leave the intakes rough but smooth.
Also, how well do all of the ports match? Do the gaskets align 100% on both surfaces to at least confirm there are protruding edges hindering flow? Thats not to say bigger is better just looking for smooth transitions from component to component.
He said there is a jacket pretty close. Being that I'm really uncertain how the engine will ECU/tune will handle bumped compression on the stock fuel system(RCF has 800psi higher roof pressure) and 93 octane, I opted to go conservative. I'll have a bottle of boostane handy in case she doesn't like life.
Also, cylinder heads are pretty hard to find used, and pricey at that, not to mention labor. So...I didn't want to go crazy, just something above your average FBO F.
The gaskets do NOT match close for the intake manifold. I keep forgetting them at home, they (head and intake mani) will be matched to the gasket and that in itself should pickup some flow I'd estimate a full 1mm around the entire port for the intake mani.
I'll get you a pic, cause even I (not paying much attention to gasket matching on a daily basis) was said: "holy smokes, we can clean that up!" When i plopped the gasket onto the intake mani.
Exhaust I haven't looked at yet and my ceramic coating has taken now 4 weeks instead of 2...so hopefully soon address those as well.
Love this thread three angle is correct for the street especially if you intend to spray a thin seat will not dissipate heat ending it burnt out seats or valve or both. You DONT want to start again keep the posts coming and at the end do a cost break down cheers from OZ.
There are gains to be had by porting the inlet manifold, I wonder if "extruder hone" would be worth it as in $$$. worth giving one of the companies a ring cheers.
You also need to check the gasket against the intake manifold. The telltale sign here is the carbon around the inside of the gasket opening. If the gaskets are not doweled, they're not a great guide for what you want to do. Ideally the intake manifold exit and port entry have the same size and shape. The small gap the gasket creates isn't as big a deal is it would often seem when you actually test it.
For seat widths, if you plan to run nitrous, set them at the high end of factory spec and place them about 0.25 - 0.5mm from the valve margin to maximize seat contact area for best heat transfer. This really is important, as is making absolutely certain there are no sharp edges in the combustion chamber. I like to take a 3M red Scotchbrite roll and dull everything on the combustion side to be certain I have no glowplugs.
You also need to check the gasket against the intake manifold. The telltale sign here is the carbon around the inside of the gasket opening. If the gaskets are not doweled, they're not a great guide for what you want to do. Ideally the intake manifold exit and port entry have the same size and shape. The small gap the gasket creates isn't as big a deal is it would often seem when you actually test it.
The above pic is the left gasket on the right side runner. I lined it up but I'll check with the correct RH gasket. As for the ports I will bring the intake and exhaust manifolds to the machine shop to check.
Heck, even I could do it with a the bolts dropped in each perspective side, draw with a pencil and compare margins with a digital caliper.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
For seat widths, if you plan to run nitrous, set them at the high end of factory spec and place them about 0.25 - 0.5mm from the valve margin to maximize seat contact area for best heat transfer. This really is important, as is making absolutely certain there are no sharp edges in the combustion chamber. I like to take a 3M red Scotchbrite roll and dull everything on the combustion side to be certain I have no glowplugs.
There are gains to be had by porting the inlet manifold, I wonder if "extruder hone" would be worth it as in $$$. worth giving one of the companies a ring cheers.
$765, it does look rough inside. I think the money is better spent in porting the cyl heads, personally. Old threads claimed 10-15whp on this. If you look at the LFA intake I believe it's polished.
Until I see the total bill from machine shop I'm waiting to decide on this.
The car is really getting a whole makeover since it's been down I've ordered Endless MX72 front pads, FIGs rear sway, and I will be picking up a set of used KW v3s since my LR shock is leaking like a s.o.b.
05-01-18, 03:41 PM
