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After taking a look at the instructions on SPC Performance for the Lexus ISF. The instructions didn't really work for me, I ended up having to take apart the entire suspension assembly to get the Upper Control arm out. (There was just no way it would clear without bending a metal housing). As I was looking around on the forum constantly I couldn't find any. So I decided to do my own write up during the job.
Tools needed:
19mm - Remove Camber Link & Rear Stabilizer Link
21mm - Wheel Removal
10mm - Diff Cover Removal
1/4 & 3/8 Drive Torque Wrench
Breaker Bar - Makes the job really easy
A second person ( For me at least)
Installation time : 1:30hr - one side
-30 minutes on the other once you understand how to take it apart.
Electric Wrench - Recommended for expedited removal & Installation
***ATTENTION*** BE SURE TO ORGANIZE ALL FASTENERS AND LABEL THEM FOR EACH MANNER. SO REINSTALLING WOULD BE MUCH EASIER
TORQUE ALL THE BOLTS ONLY WHEN THE CONTROL ARM IS LIFTED NOT HANGING FROM THE CAR. PREVENTS BUSHING RIPS. I'm not a professional in any means, anything done here is at your own risk. I was able to do this successfully with my friend. I do not take responsibility to anything that breaks.
Step 1: Put the car on the lift, and remove the wheel with a 21mm impact socket Step 2: Remove the cover with a 10mm socket for easy access. Step 3: Support the rear Stabilizer link with a stand of some sort. The whole suspension part should drop down. Step 4: With a 19mm remove rear the rear stabilizer link (AKA Lower Control Arm) Step 5:With a 12mm remove the height control sensor connected to the rear stabilizer link (AKA Lower Control Arm) ( The shortest link connected to the sway bar)
Step 5: With a 19mm remove upper camber arm (closest to the brakes) this would just be a fastener Step 6: With a 29mm remove upper camber arm (fartherest from the brake, this will be an entire bolt.) Step 8: Furthest from the brake, push down on the control arm assembly, and it should pop right out.
The closest to the brake(This part was a PITA to take off) I used a special tool to get it out. Forgot the name, but it basically pushes against the screw and pops it right out. Step 9: Once removed get the new SPC Upper Control Arms, and set it to the closest as you can to oem spec. (Camber Alignment will be off)
WHEN INSTALLING THE BOLTS ALL BACK TOGETHER, YOU MAY HAVE TO PULL DOWN ON THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY TO GET THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ALIGNED SO YOU CAN PUT THE BOLTS BACK IN.
THIS WOULD BE MUCH EASIER WITH TWO PEOPLE.
After that you should be able to reinstall everything with ease! Torque Specs have been added thanks to lobuxracer for the info.
Last edited by OneFastF; 03-03-18 at 06:14 PM.
Reason: Adding Torque Specs
OP something **critical** to assembly is 'when you tighten pinch bolts' securing the inner sleeve of rubber bushings.
As in, if you allow the suspension to hang down AND you tighten all those pinch bolts with it free hanging (front or rear); when the car is lowered and sitting on its wheels those bushings will be damaged as they are NOT IN THE CENTER OF TRAVEL!
So, to do this proper, you either leave the shock disconnected and lift the spindle/hub assembly up to simulate ride height and tighten the pinch bolts OR leave all pinch bolt loose, install the wheels and lower the car to the ground so its sitting on its tires.
NOW torque all pinch bolts to spec.
Not following this process will destroy the bushings as they are being over-rotated once the car is lowered to normal ride height. Once you add passangers and/or hit a bump the bushings rotate even further tearing the rubber and ripping the bond of rubber to steel. This doesn't happen immediately but down the road IT WILL HAPPEN!
Same should be done when lowering or raising the car but few do it and then wonder why joints are failing so rapidly.
It should be noted that this applies to the lower end of the shock too. People throw them in with the suspension hanging down, tighten the pinch lower the car and smile.
Only to drive off and destroy the shocks rubber bushing.
It should be noted that this applies to the lower end of the shock too. People throw them in with the suspension hanging down, tighten the pinch lower the car and smile.
Only to drive off and destroy the shocks rubber bushing.
That's quite something. The ALLDATA program I'm using didn't even state this type of issue. This friday I'll check the bearing and see if anything has been done.
It should be noted that this applies to the lower end of the shock too. People throw them in with the suspension hanging down, tighten the pinch lower the car and smile.
Only to drive off and destroy the shocks rubber bushing.
I had the bushings held up by the jack I used but not at stock ride height. Enough for it not to drop down all the way. (Just barrly holding it up) tell me if it should be looked st
The loading/leveling before tightening only applies to bonded rubber bushings. Not urethane, bearings, or spherical heim joints.
Think about this: a bushing installed at ride height is in a neutral position. As the car travels the suspension moves up and down.
So from installed height it could rotate say +/- 15°. However if its free hanging and tightened there, this now becomes its neutral and when leveled to ride height you twist 30° and load it and then hit a bump it now it's at some 40° of deflection and rips the bond of the rubber. These wear when installed properly let alone when installed improperly.
They way I do it is to put the car on jackstands, then raise the corner I am tightening with all components in place until the jackstand nearest the work corner goes loose, then I tighten all the bolts to full torque. Everything must be free moving before applying the jack.
With polyurethane bushings this is unnecessary as the poly bushings are lubricated and move freely to eliminate the ghost spring effect present in all bonded rubber bushings.
The loading/leveling before tightening only applies to bonded rubber bushings. Not urethane, bearings, or spherical heim joints.
Think about this: a bushing installed at ride height is in a neutral position. As the car travels the suspension moves up and down.
So from installed height it could rotate say +/- 15°. However if its free hanging and tightened there, this now becomes its neutral and when leveled to ride height you twist 30° and load it and then hit a bump it now it's at some 40° of deflection and rips the bond of the rubber. These wear when installed properly let alone when installed improperly.
You decide if its worth correcting!
This is exactly why people say "I got my car lowered and the springs haven't settled yet." Springs don't settle. Bushings deteriorate. If the springs are properly installed and the bushings reset to their neutral position, the car's ride height will not drop over time except as the springs sag which takes years, not weeks.
They way I do it is to put the car on jackstands, then raise the corner I am tightening with all components in place until the jackstand nearest the work corner goes loose, then I tighten all the bolts to full torque. Everything must be free moving before applying the jack.
With polyurethane bushings this is unnecessary as the poly bushings are lubricated and move freely to eliminate the ghost spring effect present in all bonded rubber bushings.
I tossed in some slightly used OEM IS-F LCA bushings on the nose of the 350 last week and sat it down on ramps, tightenes the nut. Same type of situation.
As stated, urethane is not bonded to the steel so no need to take this action on poly bushings as it will spin on the sleeve that is pinched into place.
What is sad is how many wannabe shops charge good money for bad labor/poor workmanship where new parts live a 1/2 life do to laziness or lack of knowledge.
I tossed in some slightly used OEM IS-F LCA bushings on the nose of the 350 last week and sat it down on ramps, tightenes the nut. Same type of situation.
As stated, urethane is not bonded to the steel so no need to take this action on poly bushings as it will spin on the sleeve that is pinched into place.
What is sad is how many wannabe shops charge good money for bad labor/poor workmanship where new parts live a 1/2 life do to laziness or lack of knowledge.
So what is the proper way to install aftermarket coilovers/LCA bushings? Let's say X name brand coilovers and RR Racing LCA bushing (polyurethane).
EDIT :I read that this procedure may not be needed for LCA bushing
The loading/leveling before tightening only applies to bonded rubber bushings. Not urethane, bearings, or spherical heim joints.
Think about this: a bushing installed at ride height is in a neutral position. As the car travels the suspension moves up and down.
So from installed height it could rotate say +/- 15°. However if its free hanging and tightened there, this now becomes its neutral and when leveled to ride height you twist 30° and load it and then hit a bump it now it's at some 40° of deflection and rips the bond of the rubber. These wear when installed properly let alone when installed improperly.
You decide if its worth correcting!
So basically like the picture I have, I should push it up to the control arm to the neutral position and torque all of the bolts? Or should if possible may you point out which ones I should retorque with the diagram attached??
The loading/leveling before tightening only applies to bonded rubber bushings. Not urethane, bearings, ball joints, or spherical heim joints.
I'm saying any bonded rubber pivot point should be left loose until the car is sitting on its tires as there is more leverage applied to the hub than jacking at the furthest point out. Now tighten anything that was loosened.
As stated, the other option is to measure from the wheel well lip to the hub center. Lets say it's 15in. Compress the suspension to obtain that same 15in and tighten any pinch bolts loosened.
Again, apply this concept to front and rear for any work being done. If you have ramps you can set the car on, Lower it onto ramps and torque it. Of course the suspension will not settle out completely until you roll the chassis but this is way better than having it hanging down and tightening it up.
02-12-18, 07:50 PM
Instructions: Spc rear upper control arms
