IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Still have inner tire wear even with the USRS!

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Old 09-08-17, 07:31 AM
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2013FSport
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Also, how is your car used? As in, what type of roads does it spend it's life on and does it see any corners? If it were mine living where I live, more negative camber would be added to the rear!!!

Speaking of the rear, let us know what it does on rough roads and things like expansion joints on the freeway. Keep track of IF the rear darts around more or less with this alignment setting....
Old 09-12-17, 04:38 PM
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This weekend while doing first OC on new to me 350 (4,000mi since purchase and no oil loss (yippee)) it seems it is chewing the insides off the fronts. I'm running 35 PSI on 225/40 so I did the next best thing in the moment and measured toe with a tape measure. Mind I used the tread and a straight edge off the wheel and got the same results and the tire wear agrees with the results found.

Yeppers, toed out nearly a 1/4"....
Backed it up 3 car links, drive forward leaving wheel in its hair down to the right position and repeat tape measure. Toed out same #.... I now have two reasons to straighten the wheel!

Something to keep in mind is these are all just reference numbers. Meaning the factory settings may get you close but the final tweaks apply to car as is, driver, car usage, tire pressure and measurement system.

Try to control, monitor and record what you see and you can manage tire wear.
Old 09-12-17, 05:34 PM
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I bet toe under hard braking is 1/2"...not sure I would want that even autocrossing.
Old 09-13-17, 11:07 AM
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Wanted to add mine into the mix. S-04 (245) on stock 08 wheels with 16.5K miles. One track day. I had zero toe for the first 10K miles and then switched over to factory toe out. No bushings.

Center is 6/32, outer (4/32), and inner is immeasurable.

Old 09-13-17, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I bet toe under hard braking is 1/2"...not sure I would want that even autocrossing.
Ya, adjustments required soon!

I never read your sig closely, you ride SS or sport bike?
I'm a mod on a bike forum...
Old 09-23-17, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Looks good for tire wear. Slight toe-in at the front will be less likely to wear the inside edges. It was seriously toed in initially. Were you having problems with inside edge wear before? With the initial numbers I see, you shouldn't have.
Forgot to reply... I did have uneven tire wear but wasn't all inner. Had mostly outer tirewear on the drivers side but inner tirewear on the passengers side. But was definitely uneven wear. No one here has ever mentioned outer tire wear before though. Maybe it's cus I'm too heavy
Old 08-27-23, 07:11 AM
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YeShrug
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Help/suggestions? 🥲 this one front set a year thing is getting old…me thinks its time to raise the old girl up a bit but the hks coils do ride nice even at this height.


Stance for reference
Old 08-27-23, 07:50 PM
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You had one front toed out, a lot, and one toed in, about normal for some shops. Just because the machine gives you a total toe number that looks OK, doesn't mean the wheels are pointed in the right way. I run -0.04 degrees left and right in the front for toe with solid rear bushings. I still get some inside edge wear, but a toed out alignment will always do that. ANY poly bushing is still going to flex, there's no escaping that. The good news is polyurethane doesn't flex anywhere near what the jelly donut bushing does from the factory.

The AFTER numbers I see show what should deliver pretty even wear across the front tires. The before numbers were awful.
Old 08-28-23, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
You had one front toed out, a lot, and one toed in, about normal for some shops. Just because the machine gives you a total toe number that looks OK, doesn't mean the wheels are pointed in the right way. I run -0.04 degrees left and right in the front for toe with solid rear bushings. I still get some inside edge wear, but a toed out alignment will always do that. ANY poly bushing is still going to flex, there's no escaping that. The good news is polyurethane doesn't flex anywhere near what the jelly donut bushing does from the factory.

The AFTER numbers I see show what should deliver pretty even wear across the front tires. The before numbers were awful.
Ultimately, everyone here is just replacing the #2 and not address the 6 other bushings on their control arms and the two on the steering rack.

I've done the full FIGs SuperPro poly upgrade for my front end, to include new LBJs, new UCAs, and the solid steering rack bushings.
I daily 90mi roundtrip through a series of country roads and it has solved my tire wear, significantly reduced the amount of steering deflection, and no more front tires fighting eachother.
It's a massive improvement in driving feel, ride quality, and safety.

Tires fighting for traction in the wet is scary
Old 08-28-23, 09:24 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by YeShrug

Help/suggestions? 🥲 this one front set a year thing is getting old…me thinks its time to raise the old girl up a bit but the hks coils do ride nice even at this height.


Stance for reference
The rest of the bushings on your car are still 11 years old.
You've only replaced some of them. The rest are worn out and giving away.
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Old 08-28-23, 10:18 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by IronNam
Ultimately, everyone here is just replacing the #2 and not address the 6 other bushings on their control arms and the two on the steering rack.

I've done the full FIGs SuperPro poly upgrade for my front end, to include new LBJs, new UCAs, and the solid steering rack bushings.
I daily 90mi roundtrip through a series of country roads and it has solved my tire wear, significantly reduced the amount of steering deflection, and no more front tires fighting eachother.
It's a massive improvement in driving feel, ride quality, and safety.

Tires fighting for traction in the wet is scary
Not everyone here. I have solid rear and poly front on the LCA, and Figs solid bushing upper arms. Rack bushings won't make any difference in wear, but they will change feel and feedback.
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