IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Lets play: What's That Horrible Sound! (Video)

Old 08-07-17, 10:00 PM
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lobuxracer
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Originally Posted by GymRat86
So i thought you said the p0012 code has nothing to do with the vvt solenoid on the exhaust cam side... so your saing this code is from the the orings between the valve cover vvt solenoid ports and cam cams??
Yes, that's what I said. Who said they had this noise AND had a P0012 DTC? I surely didn't and I don't even to this day. I have no DTCs at all.
Old 08-08-17, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by isfvss
Is this your car Lowbux,if not what is the permanent fix cheers.
Well I will AMHIK because this is getting confusing cheers.
Old 08-08-17, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Yes, that's what I said. Who said they had this noise AND had a P0012 DTC? I surely didn't and I don't even to this day. I have no DTCs at all.
i can also confirm i have this noise but no P0012 DTC. I may have confused things by also posting in the thread about the P0012 code, sorry about that.
Old 08-08-17, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by FNSSESPORT
i can also confirm i have this noise but no P0012 DTC. I may have confused things by also posting in the thread about the P0012 code, sorry about that.

Did you get to go to the dealer? Are you going to lexus of richmond hill? If you are give me a shout.
Old 08-08-17, 09:08 AM
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Im so confused now..lol...i pulled the valve cover and cleaned the OCV filter and swapped the OCV from left to right sides...lol..i still get the code...i run 10w30 in mine because of the high summer temps... my car was in the dealership last month for safety recalls for the sticky pedal crap and 5 others...but i feel like its because of them...they actually gave me the car back with the intake boot loose, oil pressure sensor not plugged in the ac compressor not plugged in and the coolant over flow leaking...i dont have this noise but i do have the code and it only comes on in high air temps 95°+ and idling..
Old 08-08-17, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by themap
Did you get to go to the dealer? Are you going to lexus of richmond hill? If you are give me a shout.
Dropped the F off at the dealer today for the recall work, but didnt ask them about the noise as i think Lobux as pretty much nailed it. I ended up going to Lexus of Oakville, theyre much closer!
Old 08-08-17, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GymRat86
Im so confused now..lol...i pulled the valve cover and cleaned the OCV filter and swapped the OCV from left to right sides...lol..i still get the code...i run 10w30 in mine because of the high summer temps... my car was in the dealership last month for safety recalls for the sticky pedal crap and 5 others...but i feel like its because of them...they actually gave me the car back with the intake boot loose, oil pressure sensor not plugged in the ac compressor not plugged in and the coolant over flow leaking...i dont have this noise but i do have the code and it only comes on in high air temps 95°+ and idling..
You can do whatever you want with the oil and the code will not change. The code is for the INTAKE cam, and the intake cam is timed by an electronic motor, not oil pressure or anything related to the oiling system.
Old 12-10-18, 07:33 PM
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So is there any reasonable way to make this sound go away long-term?
Old 12-11-18, 06:52 AM
  #24  
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I had a similar sound, but it went away after an oil change. I haven't heard it since. I also had my low oil indicator come on a time or two when parked at a pretty steep angle, so the car probably needed a top off.
Old 12-11-18, 11:41 AM
  #25  
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So run 5/30 oil if the noise is still there replace the vvti they do fail on v6 Toyota's same noise amhik. And they are VERY similar cheers.
Old 12-11-18, 12:50 PM
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I run 0w-30 Mobil 1 right now, and I almost never hear it anymore. Anyone running 10w-30 or heavier is making a huge mistake. This engine needs oil in the top end quickly, so a 0w-30 is going to be your best bet. This tells me the drive sprocket is not the source of the leak, so spending the time, money, and effort to replace it would just **** me off. It really did go away completely for 4k miles after I did my last valve lash inspection and replaced all the seals in the valve covers, so I'm pretty convinced it's just a minor leak on cold cycle that gets sealed up as soon as the valve covers get some heat in them. It never, ever makes the noise when hot.

That said, I am switching to RLI Biosyn 5w-30 on my next oil change. I am hoping the noise does not return with this oil.
Old 10-09-19, 07:46 AM
  #27  
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Lobuxracer, did your sound come on only during warming up or other times too? Did you ever experience any bogginess or jerky acceleration? I am not getting any CEL but getting a sound similar to you, and KCLV goes from 23 to 5 to 11 and all around. Car seems to do worse on highway and has issues shifting. 2012 with 52k, has the tuned intake and catless headers on it. Recently changed engine oil with 5w-30 synthetic , redline diff fluid, reset transmission and swapped out an intake elbow. Figured it was intake so swapped it back and issue comes and goes still. Took to dealer and they couldn't figure it out and with the tune told me to bring it back stock with a new computer so it's at shop now getting MAF and spark plugs done and diagnostic. When I dropped it off at the dealer it was running fine, but made the sound, on the highway it barely wanted to accelerate or drop gears unless in manual mode.
Old 06-07-20, 04:04 PM
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Update to this thread - 3 years later! A few weeks back (or maybe it was months, who even knows nowadays!) I changed the tensioner pulley and drive belt, and you know what? The sound is gone! I cant say this will be the solution for everyone, but my engine just “quietly” purrs along, with only the sounds of the lifters to lull me to sleep now.
When I replaced the tensioner pulley, the old one didnt seem to bad, no play in the pulley, but it was a bit louder than it should be when I spun it. The belt didnt seem horribly bad either, but I guess either one of them, or the combination of both was enough to make a horrible metal clanking sounds on cold start up.
-R
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Old 06-08-20, 02:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FNSSESPORT
Update to this thread - 3 years later! A few weeks back (or maybe it was months, who even knows nowadays!) I changed the tensioner pulley and drive belt, and you know what? The sound is gone! I cant say this will be the solution for everyone, but my engine just “quietly” purrs along, with only the sounds of the lifters to lull me to sleep now.
When I replaced the tensioner pulley, the old one didnt seem to bad, no play in the pulley, but it was a bit louder than it should be when I spun it. The belt didnt seem horribly bad either, but I guess either one of them, or the combination of both was enough to make a horrible metal clanking sounds on cold start up.
-R
I wish mine were that easy. I replaced the tensioner and belt and it made zero difference with mine. Still have to replace the oil powered cam chain tensioner to address this, but truthfully I haven't heard the noise since swapping from Mobil 1 to Renewable Lubricants. That said, I bought a borescope and checked for the valley plate leak and found a very slight amount of pink crust in one spot and a little more noticeable leak toward the engine front on the passenger's side, so I'm planning to do all this stuff - cam chain tensioner, valley plate, and valve lash inspect/adjust when I hit 180k miles. Not quite there yet, and with as little as I am driving now, it might be a while before I actually need to do this.
Old 06-08-20, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I wish mine were that easy. I replaced the tensioner and belt and it made zero difference with mine. Still have to replace the oil powered cam chain tensioner to address this, but truthfully I haven't heard the noise since swapping from Mobil 1 to Renewable Lubricants. That said, I bought a borescope and checked for the valley plate leak and found a very slight amount of pink crust in one spot and a little more noticeable leak toward the engine front on the passenger's side, so I'm planning to do all this stuff - cam chain tensioner, valley plate, and valve lash inspect/adjust when I hit 180k miles. Not quite there yet, and with as little as I am driving now, it might be a while before I actually need to do this.
I thought I was going down the same path, and may eventually still, but it seems like I might still have some time. Granted, Im only at 90k miles (140k kms), and to your point, driving is now pretty much reserved for weekends.
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