Adziu

Well the time is coming soon to get ready to upgrade to the notorious ISF (been waiting for this since I first saw one in my life), but there is one thing. It will have to be 08-09 due to a budget. Currently drive a 2007 IS250 awd but feel like it's time to get into a V8 with more power and excitement to it. What should I look out for when looking at these cars? Thanks!

Quadrphnia

Welcome. A few things to watch out for:

• Register the VIN at lexusdrivers.com & check all available service records. This plus an Equifax Autocheck + Carfax of course.
• Water pump - typically you can see pink at the front of it just by popping the hood & looking.
• Be very thorough when checking the body of course.
• These cars run the risk of cracked manifolds and valley plate leaks. Typically this is something you'll find after you own it. The former with ticking and the latter with fluctuating coolant levels.
• Check for a blown subwoofer.
• Get to know the interior of the ISF & make sure the one you're looking at has all of it's stock trim and body lines. I read a nightmare story about an ebay purchase on here where the car had been stripped.

Really get to know the basics of the car before you buy one. With any luck, you may know someone who has one. Get to know their car and have someone come with you. I may be missing a few things here but others will chime in and help out.

Good luck to you.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you are looking for a car owned locally (Illinois), you're not going to find much pristine. If I put my car in the air on jackstands, it looks a whole lot like new underneath. You won't even be close to what I have with a car from the rust belt. So, depending on what you are looking for, you might have to expand your circle dramatically to get something without every chassis bolt rusted in place. There are many things unique about evaluating a car from a snow and salt environment that many of us who don't can't imagine. Be sure to get the car in the air and look underneath at everything. There is a lot that can be hidden if you don't.

FinLIFE

iTrader: (8)

^not every isf owner from illinois like myself drive the car in the winter, but you def cant just take their word for it. Make sure you check it for yourself.

RCB

iTrader: (18)

I completely agree with Lobux. Most people plainly see mileage, top condition and car fax as the things that put a value on a car. I always add or deduct value for all of the corrosion going on that most people don't see.
I don't think an ISF that has been garage kept and has never been exposed to bad weather should be competing for buyers with one that has been driven everyday, year round.
I spent hours yesterday fighting with rusty bolts on an ISF that has seen only a few winters in the northeast. It is extremely obvious from a technicians standpoint that it takes a toll on the cars.
EVOs, GTRs and G35/37x are a prime example. With those cars being AWD owners don't hesitate to drive them in the snow, salt and sand. G35/37s come in with the heat shields falling off of the exhaust at 50k miles and the owners don't even realize how bad the condition of there car is because all they see is clean leather and smooth paint. I have had a GTR with 30k miles on it that had under tray bolts snap the second I put pressure on them because of the insane amount of rust under the car from two winters. Do you think the owner paid any less for that car then a similar one in Texas was selling for?

dprada01

mhmm

-LCA wear
-dashboard tackyness
-blown center speaker or rear subwoofer
-exhaust leak (header cracked)
-harsh transmission shifting
-rear differential clunk (bad bushings)
-coolant smell/valley plate leak ( slightly sweet smell but obviously chemical)
-radiatior cracking
-worn seats
-sunroof rattle over bumps

non ISF related issues

-all body panels should line up perfect
-rust
-wheel and tire condition
-check the dipstick for oil condition and inside oil cap with a flashlight to see the color internally ( usually dark brown/black hue meant prolonged oil change intervals or ****ty oil)

F_Throttle

Where is this sub anyway? Serious question.

Adziu

Was just at a Lexus dealer yesterday to test drive a 2008 ISF and I fell in love with the way the car drives and handles. I was debating between the F and E92 M3 manual but the Lexus speaks more for itself and won't fail on you. Can't wait to get mine

kzlflash

iTrader: (1)

The issues mentioned above are pretty significant dents to your wallet if you have to pay it yourself. Even with the Lexus badge the ISF isn't invincible to issues.
I had a valley plate leak, rear main seal leak and upper oil pan leak, all within 5k miles of each other (@~68k-73k miles). Although the rear main seal and upper oil pan might just be a fluke as I haven't seen anyone else have this issue.
The valley plate leak was caught right before the powertrain warranty lapsed, the rear main seal was caught 2k miles after the warranty lapsed (Lexus was kind enough to cover that 100% as goodwill).
The dealership helped with the upper oil pan, and I only had to pay ~$800 for the repair.
I would be out thousands if I had to pay for these myself.

Adziu

I see what you mean. Can you explain to me what the valley plate is ? I did hear about something with the water pump issue. Unless it's that? I'm still learning about these cars since they are different from a regular 2IS under the hood. I mean if you buy a sports car it's guaranteed to cost more than a regular Lexus for repairs. If I would want to spend more on the 2011+ it wouldn't be a problem but I could settle with an 08-09 with reasonable miles on it (like under 80 or in the low 80's).

kzlflash

iTrader: (1)

The valley plate and water pump are two separate issues, but both involve the coolant leaking. Someone could correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the water pump was more specific to 08-10 models. The pump would fail and coolant leaks everywhere. This one is easy to spot as you'd be able to see the coolant in the front of the engine.
The valley plate is essentially in the intake manifold area, where poor sealing causes coolant to leak out. This is impossible to see without a borescope as it's hidden in the engine area. Most people discover the issue through noticing coolant levels drop severely. This one seems to occur in all model years.

Check out this thread for more info on the valley plate leak: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ley-plate.html

Other than that, all is good with the F. Don't let these two problems scare you away from owning one as all cars have issues.

UCrazyKid

What my car needed has had done. List includes recalls.
cracked exhaust manifold, leaking water pump gasket, vibrating rear view mirror, alignment drifted right, failed navigation touch screen, failed ML subwoofer, many, many brake jobs, valve ticking sound, high pressure fuel regulator replaced, airbag replaced, idler pulley/tensioner replaced, uneven tire wear, squeaky seat rails, feedback hum from aux audio in/12v outlet, emergency trunk release replaced, floor mats replaced, gas pedal replaced

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (3)

Where is this exhaust manifold/header crack usually located? I think I'm starting to develop a crack some where on my car cause ever time i'm hard on the throttle now, it smells like exhaust fumes in the car. I've ran test pipes on an old car and smells just like that.

UCrazyKid

Use search for more details, there are lots of threads on this. But in short, where the manifold tube meets the mounting plate that bolts to the exhaust port, they separate right at the weld. It is a failed weld, not a failed tube.

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I found the thread a couple posts down... it appears that I probably have a cracked manifold. I just don't have the rattling that others have experienced.