JDMV8

iTrader: (6)

Hi guys.

I bypassed the brake duct and traveled an air duct under the headlight into the RR-Racing intake box. Both sides of the "cold air duct" are secured via an L clamp or bolt/nut.
From perusing the internet, similar mods resulted in up to 20 F drops in intake temps (upon WOT and/or high speeds).
This was a fairly easy and inexpensive mod.

Joker4096

iTrader: (2)

Have you logged your iats yet to confirm? I can definitely see it working.

JDMV8

iTrader: (6)

I haven't put my hood, bumper, or lip on yet
but I will log it for sure and report back here soon enough.

isfvss

That cool.

cremaster

iTrader: (1)

very cool. sub'd for updates.

blackisF08

iTrader: (2)

this is pretty cool, just wondering how the brakes will get affected during heavy or hard braking

veee8

Can this be done with the stock intake box?

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

Nice work I'll be interested in the results with intake air temps..


I'm also wondering about this.. If it limits airflow to the brake, that wouldn't be good for me... I get my brakes too hot at the track as it is. In fact, I may try to improve my brake cooling with some similar custom duct work.

-Mike

RCB

iTrader: (18)

I had considered doing something similar when we installed this intake a while back but never got around to it. I was going to eliminate the fog light rather then sacrifice brake cooling on one wheel. I suppose that if you don't do much heavy braking this approach would be fine too, just not for everyone.
I am also looking forward to seeing the resulting AIT data. Maybe a few runs on the same night with the tube open and a few with it blocked off would give a good comparison.


Mike, here is a silicon tube that is specific to what you are trying to accomplish. You can even go as far as to modify the brake backing plates to accept the tubing.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...SABEgJC3_D_BwE

RRRacing

iTrader: (1)

Actually, surprisingly the brake ducts dont do much. We eliminated the passenger side in order to fit the SC piping, and see no difference in rotor or pad wear. That might be because the 295 wide front tires block the duct outlet anyway In any case, there is no substitute for real brake ducts where the hose feeds to the center of the brake rotor.

Rafi

RRRacing

iTrader: (1)

BTW, those of you who drag race would benefit from this mod tremendously, especially if you install an inline brake duct fan that will actively blow air into the intake box while the car is not moving. When many dont realize is that when the car is not moving, it only takes a few minutes for intake air temps to creep way up, easily to the 150-160F range. So when you launch at that kind of IAT, the knock and IAT corrections will kill power. We sometimes get tuned cars disappointed with their 1/4 mile times in the summer... well, when your IAT's are in the 110F+ range, you cannot expect any tune to make power, the car will detonate and significantly knock back timing.

Rafi

JDMV8

iTrader: (6)

I'm not worried about the brake cooling. For one, I didn't divert the whole duct to the intake away from the wheel well; and secondly, the brake cooling duct doesn't seem that efficacious in the first place; and finally, through anecdotal remarks from Rafi, he hasn't observed a noticable difference in brake wear/effectiveness after the SC install (deletes the duct).


This is a "real" brake cooling duct. The ISF ducts don't "lead" air anywhere really. Actually, it may be worth doing something like the above for the brake duct--Rafi, make us a dust shield with a 3" opening

JDMV8

iTrader: (6)

There isn't really a point because the stock box is enclosed and is fed from the front snorkel (above the grill).
If you have an open element filter (RR, K&N, Takeda, Injen, etc) then I'd say this is most likely worth it

Joker4096

iTrader: (2)

This is true, i had a horrible time at the track last year when i went because of this. I was down about 50 whp and IATs were over 140 due to idling in the staging lanes.

MileHIFcar

Edit.......... double post