Defratos

Yeah I meant shims

well hope you manage to get this sorted out because I've only had good things to say about Project Mu pads and I've also used them on previous cars without issues.

The only issue I had was on the 800's and they were too thick so I had to sand them down slightly and so far so good.

good luck.

Jz39

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'll see what SpeedFreaks has to say. Knowing that there is no safety issue and that it's not the car itself, I'm not terribly concerned. It's not so bad as to rise to the point of shelling out cash to replace a brand new set of pads. I'll ask about lubing then when I go in next week.

cameljock

I put shims on my NS400 with a little brake glue in between the pad and the shim then greased the back of the shim and no click. Recently had a shop install Hawk Ceramics without shims and 1) they suck and 2) clicks bad. I'll be going back to put on HPS myself the way had done the NS400 prior. Make sure and also add a bit of brake grease to the back of the shims so that they slide on the pistons.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

I've sent you a PM as well, Jon. Sorry I did not catch it before I took off for the weekend. I'm sorry to hear something is making noise on the car. The pads should never "clunk" but clicking is not unusual with these types of calipers. It should only really be happing when you're going from forward to reverse or vice versa, though. The fact that you hear noise only when driving over depressions in the roads is unusual to me and sounds more like an aging ball joint or bushing (especially if the noise really is a "clunk"). I wish I were there to hear it in person. In any case the design is intentional and to my knowledge the Japanese (Type NS) are built to exactly the same specifications. There has to be some large tolerances when the pads are cold because there is more thermal expansion when they heat up than people realize. If they don't make the guide holes large enough then they could potentialy run the risk of the pads binding on the pins during hard use, which would be a big problem.

I also agree with the others that mentioned using shims and anti squeal paste to alleviate the clicking if it really annoys you. It's not the most glamorous fix but we've had positive results with that as well.

-Matt M.

Jz39

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Matt and no worries about the timing--I knew you'd get back to me when possible.

From my limited testing today, it does seems as though when I apply brake pressure going over the normally offensive dips by my work that there is no clunking, suggesting that holding the pads tight against the rotor alleviates the issue and points towards the pad tolerances. I am however surprised that a street pad would be this loose.

I do have brand new oem shims along with the Brembo anti squeal on them, so I don't know that this would help. It seems as though the pads are moving around on the pins that are supposed to be holding them in place--how would shims and antisqueel help this?

I8ABMR

After 20 track days on 8 different racetracks and 42,000 miles in 3 years all I'm going to say is all I use is oem. Even the fluid. I went to Racing fluid and didn't like the pedal feel. Lexus is smarter than you. just stay stock

Defratos

^ Fair point, and you're someone who has extensivly tested your car....love those stickers

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

Quick question for you- is your spring clip touching the top of the top of the pads or is there play between the pads and the clip? After watching the video several times it looks like there is no contact there (that spring should be putting downward pressure on the pads).

I'm going to contact Project Mu and make sure there were no changes with backplate dimensions on this last batch of pads.

-Matt M.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad OEM is working well enough for you but that doesn't necessarily mean everyone will be as happy with them and/or that there aren't better options out there. I dare you to try a set of HC+800 or even Ferodo DS2500 for a few events to really get to know their characteristics then go back to OEM and tell me you're still just as happy with them on track

Most people have different priorities in brake pads than you or I or anyone else who frequents race tracks, though. For many people the stock pads are too dusty and noisy so other more street focused options need to be made available. It's all about how the individual uses their car, what they prioritize and how sensitive they are to certain compromises. The NS400 has grown a reputation for being that ultra low dusting, noise free pad. However something is clearly wrong in this case.

-Matt M.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Not to mention performance and feel

Lou

ISF4life

iTrader: (30)

I've been using project Mu over 6 yrs here , never had any issue like that , one of the best pads for the F. Bites just like oem and very little dust. 😊

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

This is true as well, Lou Ferodo DS2500 and PMU HC+800 are definitely in the league above when it comes to those two things.

Tammer has shown time and again the stock pads are capable enough on this car for his use (and sure, perhaps the use of any others like him). But again different people expect and prioritize different things. Because of the line of work I'm in I get to test and experience and experiment with so many different parts on my own cars (although it's mainly brakes and suspension that I get most excited about). In short there can be a big difference between a part just "working" and a part working very well for it's intended use. Some things can seem good until you experience something better and only then are the flaws and/or shortcomings of the first product evident.

-Matt M.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

Luckily you are the majority and I'm glad you're enjoying the pads so far!

Everyone should be having experiences like yours with these pads so we'll be sure to keep chasing this until we find the problem. Just want to make sure that if for whatever reason it was a batch issue that we need to correct.

-Matt M.

Jz39

iTrader: (2)

My quasi scientific experiment determined that when going over the normally offensive road depressions with pressure on the brake pedal to grip the rotors, the clunking sound is gone, suggesting this is in fact the problem.

Secondly, lest any of you think that the metallic clunking noise is just what you hear in the video in post #1, it is not--it literally sounds like there is a bucket of metal clunking on the driver's front when going over depressions in the road.

I think I have time with my mechanic this Th and will report back.

Zelfiris

I have them on for over 8 months, brake dust is minimum compared to OEM. Definitely doesn't bite like OEM but it's pretty close. Since last month, I noticed screeching when I come to a stop (main reason why I swapped out the OEMs to begin with) but I'm gonna change my front rotors and see if it continues.