IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Will a cold air intake without tune at least keep baseline power even on hot weather?

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Old 11-17-16, 04:33 PM
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PTYIS2
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Default Will a cold air intake without tune at least keep baseline power even on hot weather?

Just bought my ISF two month ago and Ive been reading that the ISF ignition timing gets retarded and this reduce power due to intake getting hot air. I live in a very hot and humid weather and I totally can feel the power difference on how the car pulls early in the morning when its cold and just had a quick warm up (temperature and oil gauges at mid point) when compared a few minutes later after a few hard runs, there definitely feels with less power. Having set that I understand that if you install a cold air intake(CAI) without a ECU re-programming it will lose all HP gains because the ECU will re-calibrate and bring power back to the baseline.

My question is: will a CAI at least get from the reduced power (retarded ignition timing due to hot weather air) to at least the baseline ignition timing / power? or it will have that reduced power effect as with the stock intake box.

Thanks

PTYIS02

10 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue, Stock with 8,800 miles
06 IS350 Tungsteen Pearl, 19 Enkei GTC Ultrasilver with Tanabe NFR lowering springs
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Old 11-17-16, 05:01 PM
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2URGSE
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The factory intake is the best intake as most will attest. Most people go with Joe-Z or HPS mid intake pipe, but leave the factory airbox alone since it has the dual stage setup. You can swap the filter with an aFe unit if you wanted.

Where do you live?

Also, can you post where you coolant and oil temperatures settle at after a while?

What oil are you running in there?

I'm not an expert or ECU's or timing, so I will leave that for others, but I would not be in a rush to invest money in the ECU yet.
Old 11-17-16, 08:00 PM
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tas02
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Aftermarket "cold air" intakes at best will only match the iat's of the stock system, which is "cold air" from the factory.

Though I did replace the oem intake pipe, as the stock piece has a built in resonator which reduces it's cross-sectional area.

Last edited by tas02; 11-17-16 at 11:27 PM.
Old 11-18-16, 10:02 AM
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PTYIS2
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Originally Posted by 2URGSE
The factory intake is the best intake as most will attest. Most people go with Joe-Z or HPS mid intake pipe, but leave the factory airbox alone since it has the dual stage setup. You can swap the filter with an aFe unit if you wanted.

Where do you live?

Also, can you post where you coolant and oil temperatures settle at after a while?

What oil are you running in there?

I'm not an expert or ECU's or timing, so I will leave that for others, but I would not be in a rush to invest money in the ECU yet.
Here are the levels for coolant and oil when settled https://www.flickr.com/photos/878583...posted-public/

I live in Panama, Central America, weather currently 84º and 75% humidity

Oil: Motul 5W30 Synthetic.
Old 11-18-16, 12:18 PM
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2URGSE
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Originally Posted by PTYIS2
Here are the levels for coolant and oil when settled https://www.flickr.com/photos/878583...posted-public/

I live in Panama, Central America, weather currently 84º and 75% humidity

Oil: Motul 5W30 Synthetic.
Everything looks good from what I can see.

I remember reading some people upgrade their radiators in these sort of climates, but aside from that, not sure what to tell you.
Old 11-21-16, 01:59 AM
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jdmSW20
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It's hard beating the design of the stock airbox setup.
Old 11-24-16, 11:04 AM
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mindcrime
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I have RR racing intake pipe with stock box, tom's filter and X force exhaust. got a great deal on all parts for about $740. best bang for buck IMO.
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