Originally Posted by lobuxracer

I posted a request in the blog today. He has instructions for sending oils to be tested, so I'm just confirming he'll be able to take on the work at some point.

Originally Posted by 540 RAT Tech Facts, not Myths

Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of approximately 200 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.
. BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.

Originally Posted by 540 RAT Tech Facts, not Myths

3. 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic = 134,352 psi
The bottle does not have an API symbol, but it claims the oil can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1. It also claims to provide 75% better wear protection than required by the API SN specification (though it does say that claim is in reference to their 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series synthetic). And it claims 50% more cleaning power than Amsoil OE motor oil.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Fall 2017.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category. And it produced the highest psi value ever seen in my testing, from any 5W30 motor oil just as it comes right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Very impressive. My test results confirm that Amsoil’s claim of this oil providing exceptional wear protection, is true. This oil could well be “THE MOTOR OIL OF CHOICE” for most High HP engines, including Bad Boy traditional American flat tappet pushrod engines, or for virtually any engine where 5W30 is used.And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a modest 7% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 124,573 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 295F.As it stands in Fall 2017, Amsoil Signature Series synthetic motor oils, hold the top two positions in my Wear Protection Ranking List for oils just as they come, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Motor oils have to be EXTREMELY GOOD to perform that well in my Engineering torture test on motor oil. Amsoil knows what they are doing, and they have set the bar to a new very high level.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

You need to read the blog especially SECTION 2 – MOTOR OIL VISCOSITY SELECTION. Thicker oil is a bad idea for a whole lot of reasons, not the least of which is you will run hotter and lose power. The clearances in this engine are designed for 5w-30 oil. That's what you should run. Anything else is not thinking clearly.I'll be running Amsoil's 5w-30. It beats even the Mobil 1 Euro oil in every category and has less capacity drop at high temperature.

Originally Posted by Leander311

Lexus also advertises a "race-derived engine oil cooling system" that isn't sufficient in several high-temp track applications even over short 20-25 minute sessions... yet he states run as thin an oil as you can to maintain hot oil pressure. Do we know what our oil pressures dip to under hot track conditions?

In any case, I'm most interested in something that's very effective, synthetic because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy (however illogical that is), and avoids the "boutique" oil pricing... That Amsoil is triple the price. Mobil 1 5W-30 is near the top at a very steep discount! ..but also loses quite a bit of effectiveness at elevated temperatures. Perhaps combining that with the aftermarket oil cooler I've bought is the smart approach.

Originally Posted by Leander311

Certainly agree, the last thing I need is hotter oil!

Are you having UOA's done on your M1? What other flavors have you tried or are planning on trying?

Can't recall for sure, but I believe the M1EP I bought was to take advantage of their annual rebate. I've two changes worth of the RLI stuff up next.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-uoa-here.html

Might be better to move this conversation there or start a new thread since we are no longer discussing the AOS.

Originally Posted by henry1229

Did anyone have to trim their hoses when installing the AOS? Both hoses seem to be too long. The one that connects to the PCV valve particularly worries me as it places a lot of backwards force on the two right-angle connectors, which I assume are not meant to be load bearing. Can/should I trim the hoses? What should I use to trim them? I'm worried about crushing them with scissors and cracking the whole hose...

I think I had every possible thing go wrong with this install. I couldn't unclip the wiring harness. When I removed the PCV hose from the intake manifold, I pulled it off the PCV valve too which was nearly impossible to re-attach. My driver's side engine cover will not fit over the AOS. I couldn't get the AOS hose cleanly onto the intake manifold, it's all crooked and looks wonky. I had to catch a Lyft to Pep Boys to purchase a 13mm wrench since my ratchet wouldn't fit between the left bolt and the coolant tube. When I fired the engine back up, it immediately died and my heart almost died with it. The second time around it idled at 1500 RPM for several minutes before slowly dropping down to normal over the next few minutes. I also dropped my phone into the depths of the engine bay when I was trying to observe the PCV valve to re-attach the hose.

All in all, it took me about 3.5 hours to install this thing and I worked out every issue that arose, except for the hose length issue. I'm concerned that the constant force could cause the right-angle connectors to break. I'm also convinced that I am cursed with an extreme case of Murphy's Law.

Originally Posted by isfdave86

I cut the hose a little bit shorter for the same reason you mention. I also trimmed the engine cover as well to make space for the AOS.

Originally Posted by s4chico

That wiring gets pushed back behind the canister. You can see it in the previous pic.