Oil change - synthetic oil
03-06-14, 05:07 PM
#1
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Oil change - synthetic oil
I just called up my nearest Lexus dealership, wanting an oil change with synthetic oil and was told "it is not recommended for this vehicle". Wtf?? Is this normal?!
03-07-14, 04:24 AM
#6
What I do find is the oil that probably is best for the F - Mobil One Racing OW50 - is fully synthetic
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03-07-14, 05:58 AM
#9
synthetic has about double the life of dino and has achieves lubrication faster at start up
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/
Synthetic oils are derived in the laboratory. They are pure, usually nearly clear. I describe mineral based motor oils as a distilled, concentrated product. The impurities need to be removed from the raw petroleum. These oils are therefore less clean and contain many impurities. Again, the problem is really more of theory than practice but the difference does exist.
People repeatedly say that synthetic oils are more stable in a hot engine. I hear that they lubricate better. The answer is yes and no. Oil molecules do not break down, just the additives. Generally, the synthetic oils do not have VI improvers so have less to lose.
There are some properties of synthetic oils that actually result is less wear than with mineral oils. These help increase your gas mileage as well. Due to a reduction of internal friction of the synthetic oil your engine will run a bit cooler. Wear increases as temperature increases, all other things being constant.
A main advantage that the synthetic has over the mineral based oil is the ability to lubricate at startup. Both types of oil have the same specifications at 104°F, 212°F and 302°F. It is the startup viscosity characteristics that separate these oils. Synthetic oils do not thicken as much on cooling. They have better fluidity as the temperature drops.
A synthetic oil that is labeled as 10W-30 is less honey like as a mineral based 10W-30 motor oil at startup. They both have a thickness of 10 at normal operating temperatures. At 75°F the synthetic is not as thick. At 32°F the difference between the two is even greater. At 0°F the mineral oil is useless yet the synthetic works fairly well. Just keep the RPM to a minimum.
At temperatures below zero you will not be able to start your car with mineral oils while the synthetic oils may be used to -40° or -50°F. Oils are so thick that the normal method of viscosity measurement is not possible. Instead we measure if the oil can even be pumped or poured. Again, we are only discussing a single category of oil, the multi-grade 10W-30 API / SAE grade.
People repeatedly say that synthetic oils are more stable in a hot engine. I hear that they lubricate better. The answer is yes and no. Oil molecules do not break down, just the additives. Generally, the synthetic oils do not have VI improvers so have less to lose.
There are some properties of synthetic oils that actually result is less wear than with mineral oils. These help increase your gas mileage as well. Due to a reduction of internal friction of the synthetic oil your engine will run a bit cooler. Wear increases as temperature increases, all other things being constant.
A main advantage that the synthetic has over the mineral based oil is the ability to lubricate at startup. Both types of oil have the same specifications at 104°F, 212°F and 302°F. It is the startup viscosity characteristics that separate these oils. Synthetic oils do not thicken as much on cooling. They have better fluidity as the temperature drops.
A synthetic oil that is labeled as 10W-30 is less honey like as a mineral based 10W-30 motor oil at startup. They both have a thickness of 10 at normal operating temperatures. At 75°F the synthetic is not as thick. At 32°F the difference between the two is even greater. At 0°F the mineral oil is useless yet the synthetic works fairly well. Just keep the RPM to a minimum.
At temperatures below zero you will not be able to start your car with mineral oils while the synthetic oils may be used to -40° or -50°F. Oils are so thick that the normal method of viscosity measurement is not possible. Instead we measure if the oil can even be pumped or poured. Again, we are only discussing a single category of oil, the multi-grade 10W-30 API / SAE grade.
03-07-14, 07:35 AM
#12
In the previous IS350 and so far with the F, a synthetic like Amsoil hasn't been responsible for really changing anything (much that I'd notice, anyway), as my MPG has largely remained the same. Historically, I've only really noticed changes from right-foot behavior or a change in seasons, where I'll gain/lose a digit or two.
And according to the lab, the oil won't dramatically affect engine life, either. Much of that comes from other contributing factors, and unless you're being careless and actively doing things to hurt the motor, it should last about as long as the next, give or take.
That's just my experience, so far.
03-07-14, 12:38 PM
#15
Its funny you say the dealer doesn't recommend synthetic because I went to lexus of cerritos. And they said you need synthetic on the 2012 they end up being able to get my car on the ramp and I just chased myself with mobile 1 synthetic they were going to use Pennzoil synthetic