UCrazyKid

When I did mine, back when I started the thread, I bought shims. All it does is save you time. The old ones were in fine condition, could have been cleaned, re-greased and reused with no problem. I took the easy route and just put on new ones. Next time I probably won't. I can not imagine a reason to use an exotic material like titanium for a shim. If you want to reduce weight, just leave the shims out, they only reduce noise, nothing for performance. Also the spring and pin were fine for reuse. I was in California and so no harsh winters or road salts so everything was in fine condition.

jdmSW20

iTrader: (12)

yeah I did brand new rotors and pads about 2 months ago and I reused the factory hardware and everything is fine

j3ff

When I did the fronts I left the OEM shims out. Just straight pads and grease. No issues here. I did save the shims just in case though.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

For the track, I use titanium shims on the front to help mitigate heat transfer from the pads to the calipers/fluid. I get my pads pretty hot, so I figure every little bit helps. Other than that, I see no other benefit. The weight difference is so miniscule, it's irrelevant. For street use, they're a waste of money.

-Mike

bbong

I've done many brake jobs on the ISF already and never had an issue, besides the excessive wear on the pads due to my way of driving so now testing a new compound, here is what I usually do:
1) Pins, I just get them cleaned with brake cleaner and them wipe them
2) Same with the tension back plate and the middle screw
3) I clean the whole rottor(new) and calipers with brake cleaner and wipe off old brake silicone based grease from the pistons

4) Shims I've been reusing and rarely buy a new set and I believe I have RR Racing Titanium ones, I try to get them spot cleaned so they look like new, I should have taken a picture.
5) I use silicone based brake grease and apply it on the shim side that touches the pistons

I've done this probably 10 times already on the ISF and never had an issue, and my ISF sees track time more often than casual drives or DD.

Also while you're at it, I always try and bleed out brake fluid that's in the calipers, usually do 5 full pumps per side and below is a comparison of how it usually looks like new vs heavy track use.

MileHIFcar

Thanks for the write up and suggestions will probably just reuse the shims and clean everything up!

Thx guys

FNSSESPORT

I've seen a couple of memebers post that they put grease between the caliper pistons and pad. It was my uderstanding that it should only be placed between the shim and pad, NOT between the pistons and pads?

5280ISF

I re-used my original shims/pins hardware etc. on my recent brake service. I believe my brakes were still all the OEM original pieces/hardware. There was no evidence of any prior brake anti-sieze lube between the piston and shim. Piston seals were in great shape and weren't cooked or eroded yet...like some of the frequent track guys see.

I used Molyslip/Copaslip copper anti-sieze lube. I applied it between the new pad and inner shim face on the front Brembos. I did not install any shims on the new rear Wilwood calipers, no anti-sieze either. For the brake pin lube, I used Sil-Glyde. Will see if they remain quiet....so far so good.