Quick wheel spacer question?
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06-06-13, 12:28 PM
#21
Extended bolts vs Extended lugnuts
Just wondering why you would choose one over the other.
I am assuming it depends on spacer size.
It is obvious the lugnuts are less hassle to install.
Any feedback is appreciated.
(sample images=not an ISF part)
I am assuming it depends on spacer size.
It is obvious the lugnuts are less hassle to install.
Any feedback is appreciated.
(sample images=not an ISF part)
Last edited by Rossi; 06-06-13 at 12:55 PM.
06-06-13, 04:42 PM
#25
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Five fewer parts. For some reason, German cars seem to have adopted bolts with threaded hubs while Asian and American cars have studs mounted in the hubs with lug nuts. I've done both. Studs are way easier for the technician, and there's no risk of stripping threads in the hub with studs. Thankfully, studs are pretty simple to replace, so stripping or breaking one is no big deal. Breaking a bolt is also no big deal and simpler to repair than replacing a stud. There are pros and cons to both methods.
06-06-13, 05:05 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (20)
i was told at a meeting that european cars adopted using those type of style lugs because once they are torqued down, they can never come loose like the conventional stud and lug nut like other cars have since in europe, there are a lot of high rate speeding laws.
i do like putting on those studs better. it's very hard to strip in the hub. only way i can see that happening is if you use an air tool without using your hand to start a few turns.
i do like putting on those studs better. it's very hard to strip in the hub. only way i can see that happening is if you use an air tool without using your hand to start a few turns.
06-07-13, 09:33 AM
#27
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
i was told at a meeting that european cars adopted using those type of style lugs because once they are torqued down, they can never come loose like the conventional stud and lug nut like other cars have since in europe, there are a lot of high rate speeding laws.
i do like putting on those studs better. it's very hard to strip in the hub. only way i can see that happening is if you use an air tool without using your hand to start a few turns.
i do like putting on those studs better. it's very hard to strip in the hub. only way i can see that happening is if you use an air tool without using your hand to start a few turns.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...e/40688/page1/
Apparently the bolt method has its drawbacks for racing where wheel changes are frequent and thread wear in the hub becomes an issue. ARP also says studs are superior to bolts for engine heads because they produce more consistent clamping force. One of the things I learned working on aircraft is unless otherwise stated, always use your torque indicating/measuring device on the nut, not the bolt head, because the bolt head will twist the shank of the bolt and the final fastener stretch will be incorrect. On motorcycles where engine mount bolts can be very long, this makes a huge difference (and it solved an annoying creaking noise on my '84 FJ1100).
At the end of the day, both methods have their pros and cons. The cost accountants like the bolts a lot better, the engineers seem to like the studs better.
07-09-13, 09:29 PM
#28
I have a question...I have a 06 is350 sport, stock height. I bought some isf wheels and am running 5mm in the front and had to hit my lining w the heat gun. I want a flush look in the rear and want either a 20mm or 25mm ichiba v2 hub centric spacer or h&r. My question is do I have to shave my existing studs a bit? The tire shop said I do, but I do not want to mess my studs...Also anyone have a diy on install? Thanks for your help in advance.
07-10-13, 10:47 AM
#30
I am assuming you have extended studs, not the hubcentric adapters? Basically I was told the stock studs might hit the spacer which would require them to be shaved down. I think this would only be with 20mm spacers if anything?
