lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

What does feels good have to do with measured results? Nothing IMHO. I have measured results from Blackstone indicating my fluid was still in workable shape after multiple track weekends and over 100k miles. Did anyone else bother to actually measure this, or is it all "Jeez, it looked so bad, it was so dark, it didn't look like new"?

Having grown up with very large engines producing 1000+ hp day in, day out CONTINUOUSLY, it is imperative you analyse your lubricants for their ability to continue to work, unless you have an unlimited budget to make sure everything looks good. I don't. I'll take UOA over subjective information from someone quoting results on a transmission I don't own any day.

I changed my ATF only because I was concerned about the filter getting clogged, and even then only changed the amount drained out because I dropped the pan and replaced the filter.

Is it possible the only reason Lexus says there is no need to change the transmission fluid is because they (Lexus) would have to pay the EPA for the waste stream caused by a regular replacement interval? Sure.

Is it possible Lexus have tested this scenario and determined there will be statistically no failures in warranty and therefore they can circumvent the EPA surcharge for the waste stream AND be able to avoid warranty claims for transmissions? Sure.

Does it mean people who don't own this car, or have no practical experience with the platform can provide valuable reference points for owners? Not at all. They're more clueless than anyone because they haven't done the homework, sent in the samples, and have no skin in the game.

If you don't own an IS F, RC F, or GS F, PLEASE stop presenting your faulty interpretation of what is going on with results from different platforms and different configurations.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Caterpillar, Cummins, Nordberg and Mirrlees. Generator sets. Piston is from Mirrlees (1000 hp at 600 rpm). Valve is sodium filled Nordberg (~1600 hp) exhaust.

Greatest

I never would doubt anything lobuxracer says about these cars or any other.

Thanks for all the great info and thoughtful recommendations with experience and data to back them.

scamsel

Lobux is there any downside to just adding an ounce of tranny fluid at a time until the symptoms of low fluid go away? Without having to go through the rigamaroll check and fill process? Bringing it up to temp etc...

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If I were going to play a guessing game, I'd use 4 ounce increments. Try 4 ounces, if it isn't enough, try another 4. If it is still acting up at that point, you really should do it by the book.

scamsel

thank man, will give it a try and report back.

camlex

This made my life easy to maintain my car's transmission.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexu...t/222731930378

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

This is very interesting indeed I wonder if there are any potential issues with replacing the trans filler bold with something like this. I hate having to maneuver around a hot exhaust pipe (with running engine) to add fluid with a pump.

-Mike

camlex

once you install banjo bolt and adder cup on top, you never needs to mess with filler bolt and pump etc.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

So what? That's not the hard part of doing this right. That's the easiest part.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

I'm not tracking you on this one.. please elaborate.

To me, everything else is easy compared to messing with the filler bolt, due to the limited access & hot exhaust. I suppose the pin shorting/maintenance mode steps (in lieu of Techstream), plus the limited window for the fluid temp range might be a hassle. However, if well prepared & familiar with the procedure, it's not a PITA as that filler bolt, IMHO.

-Mike

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you have a shallow 24mm socket, the filler hole is no big deal. For me the biggest PITA is getting the car up, leveled, and at the right temperature. Waiting for it to cool takes an eternity, so the only easy way I have found is to put the car up on stands the night before, and set the level in the morning. I don't mess around with trying to figure out exactly how much it needs. I pour in a quart first, then finish everything else so I don't have to mess with the filler when the cats are hot.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

So, you overfill while the fluid is cold, then (once up to temp), just wait for the overflow to slow to a trickle? That's definitely easier than adding fluid while the engine is running. I will try that next time. Thanks!

-Mike

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. Way easier. Adding fluid while running is a crapshoot.

Starfire77

Hi lobux, was very glad to find this post, thanks. I also came across other info on the web which suggests it should be pins 4 and 13 (not 4 and 14).

For example, the following 2 links relating to an ISF indicate that pins 4 and 14 are not for checking transmission temp and he refers to his second video where he states it is pins 4 and 13 to check that (This is stated in his video descriptions, not the videos themselves):

And while this isn't for an ISF, it is a Lexus vehicle where it is also written as pins 4 and 13 to check transmission temp (This can be found a little past half way down the page where Post #2 starts, after the first photo of Post #2):
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...iy-w-pics.html

Just want to make sure I get this right, thanks
P.S. If this question has been covered in another post apologies in advance (I must admit I didn't go through all the posts).