isfvss

Is there any ATF that can be used in this box rather than WS Toyota ?? or mixed with WS cheers.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Valvoline sells a compatible fluid in the US.

http://www.valvoline.com/our-product...ti-vehicle-atf

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

$17.87 for 3.78 liters at walmart.com

isfvss

Thanks Lobux but I am in Australia I just asked because I am getting a gearbox service done at a "good" auto trans shop and I asked for WS and he said he thinks there are some ATF,s that are compatible ?? It looks like they sell Valvoline Max life over here.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I know you are down under. Just thought I'd give you some info to mull over. I really didn't know if the same product was available, and surely I didn't know the cost for you, but knowing it is ridiculously cheap compared to Toyota WS even here is usually helpful knowledge.

I get a case (12 US quarts) of WS for close to $100. As much as I would like to be confident the Valvoline product will work, I am also pretty spooked by the issues I have seen over the years with "equivalent" T-IV ATF, so I'll be buying the genuine WS even though it costs more.

isfvss

How much oil for a complete flush, eg taking it to a good auto gearbox place and want to know if 12 litres of WS is enough cheers Lobux Would anyone have a picture of the fill plug and the level plug or the whole gearbox.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

12 liters should be pretty close to enough. The drain and level plugs are marked. You would have to be illiterate to mess it up.

isfvss

THANK LB BUT IS THERE ANYWERE I CAN GET A PIC OF THE BOX, and 4 litres WS in OZ cost trade price 67.80 4lts not cheep but like you said for the sake of $50 saving over 12 litres hey its not worth it (12 litres $203.40) in OZ FOR WS ATF its not that bad, I will let the forum know how I go, STAY TUNED

isfvss

11 litres used for a full flush at my auto gear box place still feels the same as it went in perfect, $295 pan kit and labour, I supplied the WS oil $200 so $500 AUD and piece of mind And I had a look at the old oil which was not that bad in colour "76000km,s"cheers.

supersonic

iTrader: (2)

Quick Question:

Is the best and quickest way to just open the fill and drain plugs and slowly fill the oil until it starts to drip out the overflow hole? Is that it? Besides obeying temperature rules?

ZDCATC

No because the overflow plug can only be used while the car is running and the trans temp is in the correct range (at which point you only have a 5-10 minute window until it's too hot). Having said that I don't think I would want to open the fill plug while the car is running idk why.

If you're just doing a level check and not changing the fluid, open the fill cap and add a few squirts then follow the level check procedure and hopefully something will come out of the overflow.

mikersoft

iTrader: (1)

The procedure calls for adding fluid until it flows from the overflow plug, so there's no harm in opening the fill plug while the car is running.. That said, doing it under a running car on jack stands is no picnic, but it can be done (I've done it twice). A proper lift would be so much easier..

-Mike

ZDCATC

The procedure I was looking at had you turn off the car if fluid didn't trickle out the overflow during the level check. Then add .4 liters and check the level again. As I've said before, my source is not necessarily reliable.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Your source is not wrong. I would add the 0.4l of fluid on principle and start the level setting process. If you choose to do this after starting the engine, you'll be working right next to a catalytic converter. It will be hot and stay hot for a long time. Odds of burning yourself unless you are both judicious and properly clothed are pretty high. AMHIK. So it is far easier to assume the level is low before you start and add 400cc or even half a liter, then get everything set to perform the level adjustment a get it done. The other important thing is, once you exceed the measurement temperature, you're really going to have a long wait to let it get back in the check range again. You pretty much have one shot at it, then you'll be waiting overnight (especially in the summer) to get the temperature low enough again. Remember, the ATF goes through a loop in the radiator and gets warmed/cooled by the coolant. If your coolant is at normal operating temperature (182F), it will be heating the ATF as it passes through and making your job to set the level a very limited time engagement. The mantra for this task is, complete ALL the prep work, be absolutely sure the transmission (not just the ATF) is as close to air temperature as possible, add as much fluid as you think you might need, then do the level setting exercise.

Also, the temperature of the fluid is constantly increasing while the engine is running. The level setting plug will NEVER stop dripping ATF completely because the fluid volume is expanding with heat. When it gets to a small trickle, put the plug in and tighten. Don't wait for the flow to stop completely because it won't. And whatever you do - don't shut the engine off with the level set plug removed or you will be starting from scratch because the gearbox will start dumping fluid fast when you shut the engine off. Another AMHIK.

supersonic

iTrader: (2)

jeez louise this is daunting. i guess ill have to take it to Certified Transmission or somewhere similar to have this topped off.

isfvss

Why cant you squirt 400cc up the overflow tube??