2011 Mark Levinson stereo upgrade / build
 

First of all, I am NOT a professional installer...just a guy that's looking to do this for the first time.

Well, I wasn't really going to post anything about my stereo build, but I've noticed some things have changed on the Mark Levinson on my 2011 model. Namely, the wire colors off the amp! What a pain to read these forums and not be able to find the proper wires to tap to get a full signal. i.e. pink and brown are still the color of the right front midwoofer, but guess what? Pink and brown don't exist at the amp! Lovely. It's red and white at the amp. Guess what else? So is the front left midwoofer...it's a red and white set as well. Good luck guessing which is which! Luckily, I'm going to provide you with that information. Here's the equipment I'm using:

Polk Audio PA D5000.5 D Class Amplifier (5 channel to run midwoofers, tweeters, and sub)
Polk Audio MM 6501 6-1/2" midwoofers with 1" tweeter (components)
AudioControl LC6i (with internal summing of the frequencies)
12" JL Audio W3V (2Ohm)

Basically, I just want a better sounding stereo. I think that my previous BMW's Harmon Kardon stereos were much better than the ML. I even tried just setting up my sub and it still never sounded good. So that's when I decided to get some component speakers. So, that being said, here are the speaker wire colors.

Subwoofer is still: Brown + Lime Green -
Front Left Highs: Skyblue + Green -
Front Right Highs: Black + Gray -

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/349/cl1001.jpg

Front Left Midwoofer: White + Red -
Front Right Midwoofer: Red + White -

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/6887/cl1002.jpg

Here's a picture of the ML front right midwoofer showing pink and brown wires.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/765/dsc0046tx.jpg

Here's a picture of the actual "plug" that has the sub and front door high wires. The yellow and black are the center speaker.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8040/dsc0047gn.jpg

See all the pretty red and white wires?! I think 3 different sets! No pink and brown. Do NOT pay attention to the wires I tapped there as I was wrong at that point. Those are some rear speakers, but I forget which ones.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6439/dsc0048wh.jpg


I'm still waiting the arrival of my new amp, component speakers and AudioControl LC6i. I'm also still trying to figure out how to properly connect my wires to the LC6i to get a full signal. I'm going front highs, front midwoofers and sub to the LC6i. Just not sure where to hook my sub wires into it and if it'll sum correctly to the main outputs of the LC6i. I am a FIRM believer that we need to have the ML sub signal and not just the front midwoofers for the low frequencies. Some people have bypassed using the sub signals and I believe they are missing some lows.

Damn, sux that they changed the wire colors on the new models. Glad to see your working it out. GLW the build

Now that you mentioned it, I think I am missing some lows. I have always thought that, but just thought I was going loco. That explains a lot. I think they (car toys) used the rear mid woofer (non sub) to get low signal for my 2 type-r's. I will have to go and look. When you get the low figured out, PLEASE update this post.

I will keep it updated. Looks like the speakers aren't going to be in by this weekend (:mad:), so it might push my plans to get it installed back. However, the amp and LC6i should be in, so I might go ahead with those and the sub. I already have 1 set of new speaker wires ran to the front doors, but I've decided to run the component speakers "active", so I'll have to run another set. I'm ditching the passive crossover that comes with the speakers and I'm going to cross them with the amp.

My car doesn't even have 1000 miles on it yet and I've had it completely torn apart! Was very nervous about doing this myself, but it's coming along well and I haven't broke anything yet (knock on wood)!

I had mine torn apart on the first day it was in my garage. Of course I came from an IS250 so I kinda knew what I was doing. I put system in, coils, wheels and intake in almost immediately. It took me a while to get the exhaust, as I was waiting on someone to replace the factory tips..... Thank You ISSForged. AWESOME! anyway, yes thanks for keeping it updated.

Also, if any of you guys have any suggestions, please feel free to chime in! Like I said, I've never done this before and am only getting my knowledge from the internet. I actually got the wiring diagram from techinfo.toyota.com/ i had to spend $15 for a 2 day membership, then it took forever to find and after I found it....it took me several hours to understand it.

Once I get the car taken back apart I'll take some pictures and post. I know that there's been a few posts showing how they did their install, so my main contribution is the speaker wire color change.

Here's a picture I "doctored" up from a 2011 IS 250 NON ML. Not all wires are the same, but the front woofers are...


http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4200/ampwires.jpg

I'm interested in how the LC6i installation goes and how it sounds.

I've got a JL CleanSweep from a previous install and I'm debating on whether I should use it with the summing module or go with the LC6i for an all-in-one solution.

I've also read that the "signal sense" circuits from these line output converters (LC6i, CleanSweep, etc.) do not work very well with the Mark Levinson systems. Were you planning on utilizing the GTO signal sense circuit for the LC6i? Or a dedicated 12V turn-on signal?

I already have a remote wire ran to the front drivers side fuse box, so I'll try the GTO and direct remote. I am confused on how to put the speaker signals into the LC6i:

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/1305/lc6igray.jpg[/QUOTE]

I'm guessing I put the front midwoofers into the main channels, the highs into channel 2, and I guess I just put the sub speaker into 1 of the channel 3 inputs? Then sum all of them to go out of the main outputs? From there the amp will take care of the rest. I just want 1 full signal going into the amp, so I can set my crossover points. Does this sound right?

It shouldn't matter which signals are connected to each input as long as you move the summing jumpers to the summed position. Then you would connect the RCA cables from your aftermarket amp to the "main outputs"

Attachment 237440

Attachment 237441

Thanks Dek. That's exactly what I thought...just wanted some confirmation. I moved the summing jumpers last night. Amp comes in today, so hopefully I can get everything hooked up minus the component speakers tonight or tomorrow.

I'm guessing I put the front midwoofers into the main channels, the highs into channel 2, and I guess I just put the sub speaker into 1 of the channel 3 inputs? Then sum all of them to go out of the main outputs? From there the amp will take care of the rest. I just want 1 full signal going into the amp, so I can set my crossover points. Does this sound right?[/QUOTE]

This is waste of cash. It won't work. I have one and I'm still trying to sell it. Get the Bit one or bit ten. I have the bit ten

What about it won't work?

Made my stereo sound like ****. Couldnt not eq the system. I had everything but bass coming out of my sub.

Well, I suppose since I've already received it, I'll give it a try. I'll let you know how it goes.