Carbon Build up on Lexus V8
11-22-17, 03:34 PM
#16
^^^This. Just sold my IS350 w/195k (as said, has port/direct FI just like our IS-F's). Drove/tracked the **** out of her. Was just starting to use a little oil, but a BG Products EPR service took care of that.
A few things to help ensure a clean engine, in order of importance:
- Use quality gas. Anything designated "Top Tier" will have 3-5x the EPA-minimum level of detergents. Shell is arguably the best according to a few passionate tribologists. New stations w/new tanks are also good in theory. I use Costco, because it's Top Tier gas, it's cheap and on my way home, I know the tanks are new and clean, and I know the guy blending the detergents into the fuel. He's ex-military and does not f*&k around!
- Use quality oil, i.e. a reputable synthetic with low NOACK volatility. Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1 EP, and RLI Biosyn are among my top choices for their solid $/quality ratio. If you're changing every 5k, even a quality "dino" oil will suffice for most drivers... PCMO standards have improved incredibly in recent years.
- If your IS-F is mostly a grocery/kid-getter and thus typically sees short trips, ensure you occasionally drive her hard AFTER the oil is FULLY up to temp. Notice this can take 2-3x as long as getting the coolant fully up to temp... This fact is not inconsequential.
- If you start using more oil than you're comfortable with, try a BG Products EPR treatment. I was skeptical as a mechanical engineer with a b/g in ICE design, but the science and results behind this are quite sound. Best $20 I ever spent on the IS-350.
- Use an AOS if you are in a hot climate, drive hard and/or track your car.
- Fill oil only to half or 3/4 up to "full" on your dipstick. The fact our sumps hold nearly 10 quarts is not for lubricity, but rather for cooling and longevity. This also from a tribologist I trust.
A few things to help ensure a clean engine, in order of importance:
- Use quality gas. Anything designated "Top Tier" will have 3-5x the EPA-minimum level of detergents. Shell is arguably the best according to a few passionate tribologists. New stations w/new tanks are also good in theory. I use Costco, because it's Top Tier gas, it's cheap and on my way home, I know the tanks are new and clean, and I know the guy blending the detergents into the fuel. He's ex-military and does not f*&k around!
- Use quality oil, i.e. a reputable synthetic with low NOACK volatility. Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1 EP, and RLI Biosyn are among my top choices for their solid $/quality ratio. If you're changing every 5k, even a quality "dino" oil will suffice for most drivers... PCMO standards have improved incredibly in recent years.
- If your IS-F is mostly a grocery/kid-getter and thus typically sees short trips, ensure you occasionally drive her hard AFTER the oil is FULLY up to temp. Notice this can take 2-3x as long as getting the coolant fully up to temp... This fact is not inconsequential.
- If you start using more oil than you're comfortable with, try a BG Products EPR treatment. I was skeptical as a mechanical engineer with a b/g in ICE design, but the science and results behind this are quite sound. Best $20 I ever spent on the IS-350.
- Use an AOS if you are in a hot climate, drive hard and/or track your car.
- Fill oil only to half or 3/4 up to "full" on your dipstick. The fact our sumps hold nearly 10 quarts is not for lubricity, but rather for cooling and longevity. This also from a tribologist I trust.
11-23-17, 09:49 AM
#17
Totally. I've got a BG oil treatment on the shelf I'm going to do first thing in the Spring along with another carbon blowout. Can't wait - my buddy swears by their products too. I either use Shell or Mobil gas & seem to have better performance with Mobil. Never thought about the age of the tank, that's funny & makes perfect sense.., There's a Marathon by my house that has an outstanding commercial loan (which is also delinquent - I consult for the bank) to repair their leaking tanks. Glad I never stop there.
- Ocassionally use a good fuel system cleaner like Redline or Gumout (with Regane). You want anything with an active ingredient called PEA, though they ironically never explocitly market this ingredient on the label. Redline purportedly contains the most PEA, and a case of 12 from Amazon is by far the cheapest I've found it. Thus, I may or may not have an entire case of it in my garage... 
11-23-17, 09:53 AM
#18
I did not... though I probably would have around 120-150k if I'd read the thread where the guy has his IS-F's ATF lab-analyzed at various mileage points. I'll be doing so on my F sometime in that 120-150k interval. The much more important aspect is maintaining proper level. Proper operation is apparently very sensitive to low fluid, even just a few ounces according to some reports.
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