Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?
#46
Just had my valve lash inspection done at 135k and a few valves were out of spec on the loose side at a snug .012 (spec is .009-.011). My mechanic (RCB) and lobuxracer both suggested to leave them.
#48
Driver School Candidate
So has ANYONE had this inspection done? I'm about to acquire my first ISF, an 08 with 62k and the previous owner opted not to do this as part of the 60k service. I'm trying to figure out what the common wisdom is among ISF owners.
#50
The vehicle I bought has the paperwork from the 60k service done not too long ago and doesn't mention the valve lash inspection. The owner I bought it from is meticulous too, so not sure why Lexus of Bellevue wouldn't do it if it's a recommended service, and the owner is willing to pay for whatever is needed.
#51
The vehicle I bought has the paperwork from the 60k service done not too long ago and doesn't mention the valve lash inspection. The owner I bought it from is meticulous too, so not sure why Lexus of Bellevue wouldn't do it if it's a recommended service, and the owner is willing to pay for whatever is needed.
#52
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
...Here is a pic of (what I think) all the gaskets needed / required for the valve inspection process.
11193-38030 = 8 - Gasket Spark Plug Tube
23224-38010 = 2 - Gasket Fuel Pump Spacer
23915-46011 = 2 - Insulator Fuel Pump
23279-74010 = 4 - Gasket Fuel Pressure (Pulsation Damper)
11229-38030 = 2 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 3 (Valve cover oil filter)
11159-0P010 = 4 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 1
11159-0S010 = 4 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 2
90301-A0029 = 4 - O Ring (Oil Drain Pipe)
11213-38060 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 1 RH
11214-38040 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 2 LH
90430-27005 = 2 - Gasket Cylinder Head Screw Plug
Going to cross check a couple of these since it seems some parts have been superseded from original..
But hopefully this is all correct...
Joe Z
11193-38030 = 8 - Gasket Spark Plug Tube
23224-38010 = 2 - Gasket Fuel Pump Spacer
23915-46011 = 2 - Insulator Fuel Pump
23279-74010 = 4 - Gasket Fuel Pressure (Pulsation Damper)
11229-38030 = 2 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 3 (Valve cover oil filter)
11159-0P010 = 4 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 1
11159-0S010 = 4 - Gasket Camshaft Bearing Cap Oil Hole No. 2
90301-A0029 = 4 - O Ring (Oil Drain Pipe)
11213-38060 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 1 RH
11214-38040 = 1 - Gasket Cylinder Head Cover No. 2 LH
90430-27005 = 2 - Gasket Cylinder Head Screw Plug
Going to cross check a couple of these since it seems some parts have been superseded from original..
But hopefully this is all correct...
Joe Z
#53
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The plan was to have this done while my F was at the dealership over 4 weeks in two consecutive visits for ELF Recall & a short list of extended warranty work, that needed to get done.
Unfortunately, the book rate quote I was given to perform just the inspection portion, was well ridiculous.
I ended up returning all the gaskets and buying: engine / cabin / oil filters, Toyota oil, brake fluid, EFI tank additive, wiper blades, belt & tensioner.
All I have left to do this month is the new Belt & Tensioner.
Joe Z
#54
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Rekindling an old flame.
I did this again this weekend and at 130k+ miles, found most of the rubber components pretty glassy, so they got replaced. I also discovered if you connect the two fuel lines on the driver's side backwards, the engine will not run for very long and will set a P0087 DTC for low fuel rail pressure. It took a little while to divine my error, but happily, nothing suffered permanent damage as a result.
Once again, I would not recommend this task for the mechanic with few hours of experience. It is a daunting task for many.
As an update, nearly all of the exhaust valves are at the limit for clearance, meaning they are at the loose end of spec. None of the valves measured tight. I was told a very long time ago, a loose valve is a happy valve, and I have learned from painful personal experience that tight valves are very expensive.
I did not attempt to adjust any of the valves since they all met Lexus specification, and I did not do anything prior to the inspection to ensure there was little/no carbon to be expected on the seats. Ideally, I would have done some WOT runs with water injection to clean up the carbon, but I have done enough of this stuff to know it is best to leave well enough alone when it comes to valve lash. Had they been tight, it would have been a totally different approach.
I also marveled at how they (Lexus and Yamaha) could have chosen shims underneath the rocker pivots instead of lash caps on the valve stems. I suspect that would have been quite a bit simpler and cheaper since they would not need 01 tool steel for rocker shims, but they surely do for lash caps.
At any rate, the good news is, even at 130K+ miles, the valves still meet factory specs for clearance. That is truly good news!
I did this again this weekend and at 130k+ miles, found most of the rubber components pretty glassy, so they got replaced. I also discovered if you connect the two fuel lines on the driver's side backwards, the engine will not run for very long and will set a P0087 DTC for low fuel rail pressure. It took a little while to divine my error, but happily, nothing suffered permanent damage as a result.
Once again, I would not recommend this task for the mechanic with few hours of experience. It is a daunting task for many.
As an update, nearly all of the exhaust valves are at the limit for clearance, meaning they are at the loose end of spec. None of the valves measured tight. I was told a very long time ago, a loose valve is a happy valve, and I have learned from painful personal experience that tight valves are very expensive.
I did not attempt to adjust any of the valves since they all met Lexus specification, and I did not do anything prior to the inspection to ensure there was little/no carbon to be expected on the seats. Ideally, I would have done some WOT runs with water injection to clean up the carbon, but I have done enough of this stuff to know it is best to leave well enough alone when it comes to valve lash. Had they been tight, it would have been a totally different approach.
I also marveled at how they (Lexus and Yamaha) could have chosen shims underneath the rocker pivots instead of lash caps on the valve stems. I suspect that would have been quite a bit simpler and cheaper since they would not need 01 tool steel for rocker shims, but they surely do for lash caps.
At any rate, the good news is, even at 130K+ miles, the valves still meet factory specs for clearance. That is truly good news!
#56
Used to shims with my E46, plus the inspection interval is much much more often. Was a pretty easy job though for the mechanically inclined. Probably need to look into doing this at some point this summer.
#60
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
I have a parts list I recommend for anyone over 100k miles doing this task. I'll add it to this thread.
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