zazzn

apparently it's redesigned but that's besides the point it fails pre-maturely at our expense. At least BMW gave like 9 years on the fuel pump because of the issues with the 335.

vudaddy

another 08 here at 60k miles. just had mine replaced at sterling under powertrain warranty

Compthis

iTrader: (1)

Just dropped off my car at the dealership for a leaky pump. I've been watching for it since I bought it and finally started. Being replaced under factory warranty. 75000km on the clock.

Cobra1

Good catch!

dannyk8232

^^^^^^^^^^^ True 'dat.....well done!

9aristo

iTrader: (10)

add another victim to the list... I was about to pull the lower body covers to retrieve a bolt I dropped and found the pink crust. Performed oil change a couple hundred miles before, am positive there were no leaks beforehand.

I'm at 85k, and out of warranty (is it true CPO warranty is up to 100k miles, but only within 3 years of purchase date?) and will probably shell out the $700 to fix it myself

Unless it's DIY-able? any insight/guides anyone want to toss my way?

Compthis

iTrader: (1)

The water pump is covered by manufacturers warranty up to 110,000km and 6 years(from what i was told at the dealer) My ECP(extra care protection) warranty is covered till March 19th 2017 or 160,000km. My cars original sale date was March 19th 2009. I bought my car used on Feb 2, 2012.

9aristo

iTrader: (10)

it seems DIY-able. Removal/ Install guides attached.

going to tackle it this super long weekend I suppose.

3 Gallons of coolant. FML.

ordered from sewell:

WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
Part #: 1610039506

GASKET, WATER PUMP
Part #: 1627138010

Fluids - Service-Super Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (1 Gal)
Part #: 00272SLLC2

GASKET, WATER INLET HOUSING, NO.1
Part #: 1632538020

GASKET, WATER INLET HOUSING, NO.2
Part #: 1632638010

not sure if i'm missing anything else...

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Whatever you do, ignore that stupid instruction for holding the pulley. Loosen the pulley bolts BEFORE you remove the serpentine belt. A half turn is plenty. When you do the install, put the bolts in finger tight and do final torque after you install the serpentine belt. Seriously, you don't want to use a taped up screwdriver to hold the pulley. That's just asking for trouble.

It really isn't a hard job at all. Everything is on the front of the engine.

9aristo

iTrader: (10)

awesome tip, I was worried about that taped up screwdriver lol.

I was debating whether or not to do the thermostat as well - ended up caving in and ordered it.

Parts came out to $280, decided against Sewell and went with Carson Toyota instead. Thanks to Jose/Luis, those guys are awesome to deal with.

Once again, thanks lobuxracer for the insight you always contribute.

9aristo

iTrader: (10)

just finished... my leak came from the lower drain hole. I'm not sure why the water pump is leaking from the drain hole, the design confuses me. In what circumstance is a healthy "drain"? Excess leaks apparently means seal/gasket problem I was told.

for those attempting this themselves, the water pump kit and the thermostat kit comes with all the necessary gaskets you need. I have an extra set of gaskets that will probably never be used. Also, don't be a noob like me and buy 3 gallons of the SLLC (super long life coolant), you only need 2. I don't know where I got the figure that the IS-F's capacity was 3 gallons. for the most part, the PDFs are pretty good guides to follow for the repair, minus using the screwdriver to remove the pulley. I was able to do what lobuxracer said and remove the bolts with the V-belt on (it slid when I did it slow, so I had to use this fast motion to break the nut loose). take extra care in removing hoses that won't budge, as they might crack or split (twist the hose instead of prying it off). I cleaned off as much of the caked on old coolant as I can so I can monitor it for new leaks.

in all, I saved about $350 doing it myself with original parts. The thermostat is an optional part I replaced (since I was already in there) that was about $40. So technically I could have saved $390.

The old pump I removed looks identical to the new pump, I really don't see any differences:

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The drain is there so you will see evidence of failure before you have catastrophic failure. If you notice the weep hole weeping before all your coolant gushes out of the system, it did exactly what it was intended to do - warn you of impending disaster before it struck.

torxuvin

Ugh. I'm having to top mine off about once a month (only had the car 2 months) but I can't seem to find any evidence of leaking. Even with the under engine covering off. :/ I'm at 75k miles though

Joe Z

iTrader: (10)

^^ But how much ??

I set mine to Full (with cold motor).. Every 5,000 miles..

The fluid will have natural evaporation...

If there are no signs of leaking at the pump, top plate or mixed in your oil..

..I say your fine to lose a few ounces during a span of 3-6 months..

- Joe Z

torxuvin

I filled it from min to full not long after I first bought it, and then just did again this week about 3k miles later. I did get the oil changed at the dealer because of time constraints. They didn't mention anything. I thought it was strange that the car never popped a light or code about low coolant levels. I'll certainly keep an eye on it.