flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Hey Lance - When I drive an auto, I left foot brake. Just because you left foot brake, does't have to mean you ride the brakes. I don't. And the only reason I changed my front rotors and pads was to get rid of the drilled rotors and the excess dust from the stock pads. My slotted rotors and Ferodo pads are wearing very well - Thank You Very Much And, IMHO, the Ferodos have superior performance and feel better to me than the stock pads. I love the initial bite.

Lou

Joe Z

iTrader: (10)

I had problems with the Bobcats... Even them gave them a chance to CORRECT... And I’m sure they are still not produced for fitment correctly... 

The OEM pads are great... But their HIGH FRICTION characteristics do a number on the rotors..



Soo far I have no complaints on my Project Mu’s.
I’m on my second set of PMU pads (street driven only) that were originally installed on new OEM rotors..
My rotors are wearing much slower with them.. Evident by the non-visual channel grooves.

~ Joe Z

JKweezy

It all depends on how you drive your car... i do about 70-80% highway since she's my DD... I've only done 1 autocross event... i still have original rotors front and back but had to change the front pads, still original pads in the rear also... i have a little over 70k on her... But i don't abuse my brakes as i plan way in advance when to let off the accelerator and let the engine do the braking when i come up behind a car or stop light so i minimize my brake usage... i measured 1.154" for drivers side and 1.163" on the passenger side for the front rotors so i got a lot of life left on the rotors... i can probably break 100k without changing the rotors... YMMV...

todd4566

Impressive. I just turned 20k miles (bought the car at 16k) and I'm looking at my pad wear bars every couple of days lol. Probably 4-5mm to go from the bars in the front, 2-3 in the rear.

zazzn

im at 90k, still on my original rotors, I have a set of stoptech high carbon sitting to go on but when i measured the rotors i had 28MM or so , so I just slapped on new pads and enjoying a cheap break pad change.

No need to machine, they aren't warped and no grooves.

rahre

Just starting feeling the warp vibration again. This set of Raysbestos and stop tech pads is only 1500 miles old. This is my 5th set of rotors on this 08 IS-F. Car has 53k miles. This is getting pretty frustrating. I have reset pads, I've had lug torque checked and rechecked. I have had the hub looked at. I am out of ideas and running through $$$ like crazy. The dealer is useless other than offering to replace rotors for about $1500. This is a daily driver, highway almost exclusively. The vibration is very noticeable at 75mph, hard to feel stopping from 30mph (for now). What else is there to do? Happily taking suggestions. Thanks

RMA

Original rotors here also & currently at 26900 miles . New Project Mu pads were placed on the car at 22k if I recall & the Lexus tech measured my rotors at the time & mentioned I should be fine till I need to change out the brakes again. If I recall he said I was at 28mm-28.5mm on both/either front & rear.

StealthFF

Honestly I went through 3 sets of pads on the front, one being a set of carbotechs bobcat pads and got 60K out of front rotors "safely" until I saw cracks. I have rear carbotech pads that have lasted 78K now and original rear rotors barely worn with 100K on them... I try to drive smart (not decelling with transmission to cause excess wear), slowing down as I see traffic slowing etc, but there is times I drive spirited....

SoCalISF

Has your car been checked for proper F/R proportioning? Possibly a master cylinder or proportioning valve issue?

May be a long shot but stranger things have occurred, and the only way I could see killing a set of rotors in 1500 miles of street use is if the car was stopping with front brakes only.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Or constantly left foot braking without ever actually lifting off the pedal.

BTW, the thing no one really wants to say, but is undeniably true: it is your driving, not your brakes. Pulsing rotors mean you have uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors. This is a result of how you use the brakes, not the design or parts selection.

SoCalISF

I concur, no chance to cool between braking cycles (one continuous braking event 1500 miles in duration?!!) building continuos heat would definitely have a negative impact!

I8ABMR

I had to replace my pads at 26k miles but rotors feel fine even after 4 track days in 10 months . I do have a set of rotors waiting for duty in my garage. Sewell sells them for a great price btw

rahre

Thanks. True, it might be how I drive or brake, unless it isn't. The original owner put 3 sets of rotors on. I have needed two. Maybe we are both terrible drivers.
If not, is there a way to know if braking is appropriately balanced front/back? Me dealer has not offered up that option. In fact, last time I was there with a rotor warp complaint, they "road tested" my car without me ( all 3 shop guys) I'm not a big fan of going back without knowing that there is a diagnostic test that can be done in the garage. Thanks again gentlemen.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

Like lobuxracer mentioned this sounds like a pad deposit issue. Although Im not sure how you would heat the brakes enough to have issues with pad deposits if it is almost all freeway miles

Pad deposits can happen if the brakes are grossly overheated while driving. This mostly happens when people take their cars to a race track on inadequate street pads but can happen to heavier more powerful cars with more aggressive pads. This type of deposits is usually visible and looks like someone smeared pad material unevenly on the rotor surface. They other type of pad deposits occur more often than not with primarily street driven cars. This type happens when the driver puts a lot of heat into the brakes and then comes to a complete stop with their foot on the pedal. This in turn holds the pads up against the searing hot rotors in one spot causing the pad to leave a deposit and every time you brake the pad rides over the deposit and you feel a judder (this type is usually visible and looks like the pad imprint).

In your case, since the pars are only 1500 miles old Im thinking it could have been something that was done during the bedding process. I can't stress the importance of proper bedding to people enough. Properly bedding in the pads and rotors and laying down an even transfer layer makes a huge difference in how the brakes will perform. The first time you heat the pads up enough to lay a transfer layer it is crucial that you don't come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake while they are still hot for the reasons mentioned above. Can you advise what sort of bedding procedure you did after you installed the brakes?

rahre

Bedding was done according to Stoptech instructions 10 stops @60-10, cooling, repeat. They felt great for about 1000 miles. Now, getting a wobble back. I have read you can rebed, but have also been told that you will remove the material if using them below operating temp over time. It's chilly here and easy to not use the brakes hard. I could slap yet another set on up front. I just can't imagine how this time will be different. I've owned a handful of performance cars with big breaks, never had a problem like this and not finding others with the extent of my issue. Your thoughts are most appreciated. Clearly, I'm a little frustrated. Love this car and want it to feel as quality constructed as I believe it should be.