replacing/ getting to our stock ML sub is pretty easy, you just gotta take out the seats.... but get ready to void the warrently... not a cheap experence

^i agree with 8speed... just get a box etc.

 

8speed is right, I'm looking for that deeper bass that can come with only a separate box/amp/trunk set up. Any recommendations on who carries lightweight, good quality products?

 

How about the Infinity Basslink for some added bass without too much weight?

 

i want to do one JL w3v2 and a JL 500/1. wont weight too much and will sound clean

 

So I found this 500w 8 x 2.5 speaker...
http://www.dpcauto.com/products/Prem...ax.-Power.html

But it also has a low end of 30... Is the one in the ISF 20?

I'm still looking into putting a 12in in a custom box and amp.

 

I've been looking at that sub as well. The thing is, if I wanted some ***-kicking bass I'd just add a sub and an amp - but I just want everything stock but I don't want my sub to sound like it is going to explode everytime I turn up the volume past 35. I think one of these might do the trick even though the freq response isn't the best around. It's a free air, 2.5" deep 8" sub with like 70 watts of power...you can't expect that much.

If i end up doing this I'll post pics and a review.

 

how many ohms is the factory sub? once i find that out im gonna do one of those pioneer subs.

 

I just ordered the pioneer sub.

My understanding is that the stock sub is 8 ohms. The pioneer is 4 ohms.

So here's my plan:

1) try it out at 4 ohms and see if the amp overheats. it's just 1 channel out of 10, so possibly the cooling of the entire amp is sufficient to keep it from entering protection mode...I don't know what will happen but if it will power a 4 ohm sub w/o overheating, I'll be a happy man.

2) I'll try adding a 4 ohm, 500 watt resistor - it's been done before on the internet and apparently works - but there are plenty of people who say it doesn't work. It's cheap to try.

3) I'm going to run some wires off of the new sub down into the trunk as a safety precaution - if #1 and #2 fail, I'll hook the new sub up in series with an older 10" JL sub I have sitting in my closet (already in an enclosure) and deliver an 8 ohm load to the ML amp.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

great job thanks!

 

thanks! i'm trying to keep this clean and lightweight. if a simple swap can be done, great! otherwise most shops around me are qouting around $600 for kicker 12" and amp installated of around 600 watts... but i didn't want to drop an ugly heavy box into the trunk... I think a custom-trunk-built project will be too pricey for me, i'd rather spend the money on other things

lower the ohm the better? sorry i'm not an audio guy

 

sort of... the amp is currently feeding an 8 ohm sub...if you cut the ohms of the speaker down to 4, it normally would double the power output so instead of 70 watts or whatever our amp puts into the sub (does anyone know?) it would put 140. The downside is the amp might shut off to protect itself from overheating. I'm in phoenix, so if it doesn't overheat for me...it won't overheat for you! We'll see what happens.

 

any word yet?

 

Not yet... Order hasn't shipped yet. Dealercostcaraudio.com ftl

 

$88 not bad price, not they not have it in stock? Don't order from the link i posted earlier, i checked out the store and it's crap.

i'm mostly likely going to get alpine type r or a kicker '12 with 400-600 rms in a custom box for the trunk...

 

After still no tracking number after a month, I canceled my order for the pioneer sub.
Debating whether to reorder elsewhere...I've actually found that by turning off the auto-volume leveling, it keeps the sub from sounding like it is going to explode with nearly all music I listen to....so it is meeting my needs pretty well right now.
My $100 might be better spent on an intake or exhaust at some point...