ISFCOBRA

Today, I got back from the dealership and was told I need to replace the following parts below. I did decline and looking to repair either on my own or finding a good mechanic in San Antonio.

a little background on the car.
Stock 2013 ISF with 193,586 miles
codes P0171, P0174 & P1170
replace 8 port injectors
replace PCV valve and Elbow
replace leaking rear shock

I am sure I can handle the shocks. Also I don't want to spend a whole lot on the shocks because of the cost to address the injectors.
Now as far as the port injectors, I am willing to repair but wondering if anyone has instructions and where to get the OEM injectors.

Any feedback or help would be great.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Here's the list of possibles for your P0171 and P0174:

• Intake system
• Fuel injector assembly for port injection
• Fuel injector assembly for direct injection
• Mass air flow meter
• Engine coolant temperature sensor
• Fuel pressure
• Gas leaks from exhaust system
• Open or short in air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) circuit
• Air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)
• PCV valve and hose
• PCV hose connections
• Wire harness or connector
• ECM

P1170 is just injectors or ECM.

Did they already try a fuel system cleaner like BG44K? That's where I would start. Sounds like the injectors are varnished up and need to be cleaned to me. It's incredibly rare to need to replace all of your port or direct injectors. This kind of result is more often just bad fuel or dirty injectors. TBH - this is the first time anyone here has had a problem like this. Usually replacing an injector is because it got broken during a valley plate repair, and then it's only one or two. The other very real possibility is a cracked hose, like the one from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. With the mileage you have (very similar to mine +/- 1k miles) the PCV hose is as brittle as glass at the manifold end. I replaced my PCV valve a while ago, and the hose was definitely in a bad way. Same thing with the EVAP purge line that is right next to it on the manifold. So, if this were mine to fix, I'd do it like this:

1. Get a can of BG44K and put it in the gas tank.
2. Replace the PCV valve and hose (not the easiest task in the world, but doable).
3. Replace the EVAP purge solenoid hose.
4. Inspect all other vacuum hoses for deterioration and replace anything suspect.

TEST.

I really, really doubt you need to replace your injectors. That would be bizarre.

Also - if you have an AOS or catch can, bypass it with a direct hose from the PCV valve to the manifold to test for a leak in that device.

ISFCOBRA

Lobuxracer, thank you for the info. The dealership did not try anything besides giving me the bad news and quote of 4k to repair this.

I did say pretty much stock but I should mention this is all I have done to it
Oil catch can from RRacing that I need to replace as it leaks if I don't change before the mid point
A non oiled filter and RR racing intake tube.

I did clean the mass airflow sensor recently hoping that would clear my codes. The car is not sluggish and throttle response is the same but as far as fuel goes I do stick to 93 but pretty much from any gas station. I don't stick to a specific brand of gas.

I will work on what you have recommend to be done asap and let y'all know.

thank you David

Jwconeil

Nice to see a high mileage 13. I need to drive my 13 more.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I'd bet money this is the root of the problem. Sounds like there's an air leak in your AOS and it's causing a lean condition (that will set all the codes you are seeing easily). Easy check is to bypass it or just cap the input on the manifold to test. I don't recommend driving around with this capped off for any length of time, but it should return your fuel trims to an acceptable value and let you know the problem is with the aftermarket AOS implementation. It's not difficult to get leaks on an AOS install and air leaks are always a bad thing for fuel trim.

ISFpowered

What I did for my leaking AOS was switch to brass fittings and Teflon tape on the threads.
I also changed out my PCV and upgraded to Samco oil resistant hoses. Zero leaks now. If I were you I would also stick to name brand gas like Chevron, 76, Shell, Mobil 1, etc……not billy bobs gas station gas.

Jwconeil

Reason number 7,012 that I don’t trust dealerships. It’s insane the tech would ever believe every injector died.

mike33

iTrader: (1)

The tech knows every injector isn't bad, he just decided it's not worth his time to figure out which one
might be, or what the real problem is... We live in a time that no longer values diagnosing and repairing,
it's just easier to say replace everything... I don't know if it's laziness or greed, maybe both.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Flat rate work is the culprit. There's no money in proper troubleshooting when you can loosely diagnose something then charge flat rate to shotgun replace all the possible failure points. Troubleshooting is clock hours, replacing a part comes from the book. Way back in the 80's a good friend of mine worked at a Honda dealership and there was a recall for clutches (long time ago). Book rate was 3.5 hours. By the fourth one he did, he got it done in 30 minutes. But Honda paid him for 3.5 hours. He took every one of those jobs he could get. There is no real incentive to nail down the exact cause of failure, only to figure out what parts are going to be replaced and how much the job is worth in the flat rate manual. Simple self interest. Any decent flat rate mechanic is expected to log 80 hours in 40 hours on the clock in a week. That's the problem.

JDMV8

iTrader: (6)

As it was said here, all of the port injectors going bad seems unlikely and points to one root problem. I think your car would be misfiring like crazy if all of the injectors were bad, and you'd know. Here's my AOS setup w/a big mishimoto can.

re'

ISFCOBRA

Damn, those are some nice looking engine bays. I am planning to work on it this weekend which is to replace the hoses needed, pcv valve and definitely look to replace the catch can asap.

Jwconeil

You really don’t need a catch can unless you track the car. I ran the RR can and went back to stock to avoid leaks. I’m normal street driving, even aggressive, you shouldn’t be filling a catch can with a healthy engine.

ISFCOBRA

oh ok, it never really filled that much. I drained it every oil change which would be about 4 oz's or less. I guess I can just run a "U" hose to remove it.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

My vote is for the OEM hose. It will last over 150k miles easily. Mine did for sure.

predacon47

iTrader: (8)

When I started blending, both P0171 and P0174 popped up. I would clear it, exactly 14 miles later the check engine light would come back on with the same codes. Took my car to Lexus (bad move on my part) and they told me almost the exact thing. They said they recommended replacing the #8 injector cause it failed. I took it to another independent mechanic for a second opinion and he told me I had a bad fuel pump and fuel filter. So I figured instead of going back to oem, why not upgrade. I purchased an AEM 340LPR fuel pump that was compatible with E85 from Amazon. Note, the fuel filter provided with the AEM pump is a different design so I went to Toyota and purchased an oem fuel filter and installed both into the F. I should post pictures of how dirty the filter was! It was caked with black gunk. While doing the install, I unplugged my battery and took out my ecm fuse

Put everything back together, fired it up and no codes. It’s been 2k plus miles since the install and still no codes..