New to Lexus
Hello,
I am new to the world of Lexus ownership and specifically F cars. I just recently purchased a 58000 mile 2013 ISF and was worrying about a few potential issues/maintenance items that I saw throughout the threads.
1. Valve Lash
This car has never been checked for valve lash. Is this something I should be set on immediately checking out or getting done at a dealership?
2. Transmission flush/fluid change
is It a bad idea to do a change at 60k miles? Would it ruin the transmission since it’s never been done and is 13 years old?
3. Getting oil checked
I was reading that blackstone is not any good? Are there any other companies that I should check out?
4. Misc items
should I be worried about anything potentially going wrong around this mileage? Timing chain tensioners, valley plate? Any help would be much appreciated, I’m trying to knock out as many maintenance items as I can and plan to do most of it at home besides the larger jobs.
Recommend anything and everything for I am lost and going down a rabbit hole reading all of these threads of all the potential issues lol
I am new to the world of Lexus ownership and specifically F cars. I just recently purchased a 58000 mile 2013 ISF and was worrying about a few potential issues/maintenance items that I saw throughout the threads.
1. Valve Lash
This car has never been checked for valve lash. Is this something I should be set on immediately checking out or getting done at a dealership?
2. Transmission flush/fluid change
is It a bad idea to do a change at 60k miles? Would it ruin the transmission since it’s never been done and is 13 years old?
3. Getting oil checked
I was reading that blackstone is not any good? Are there any other companies that I should check out?
4. Misc items
should I be worried about anything potentially going wrong around this mileage? Timing chain tensioners, valley plate? Any help would be much appreciated, I’m trying to knock out as many maintenance items as I can and plan to do most of it at home besides the larger jobs.
Recommend anything and everything for I am lost and going down a rabbit hole reading all of these threads of all the potential issues lol
Valve lash has not been an issue with mine. I have 242k miles on the engine.
Transmission fluid is not nearly the big deal some make it out to be. If it were mine, I'd drain the pan, refill and set the level. It should be about 5.5 quarts, or about half the amount of a dry fill. I didn't touch mine until 150k miles.
Oil analysis is what you pay for. Blackstone's analysis isn't very special, and their equipment isn't the same as the more expensive labs. I use them because mass spectrometry isn't difficult or expensive. If you're concerned about fuel dilution, flash point, or other parameters, you need a better lab. There are quite a few, just look for ISO certification if you want results to a traceable standard. I'm not that picky. I'm really only interested in wear metals.
The valley plate is really the only thing to be "concerned" about because it seems they all fail from the factory at one point or another. There's no point in doing this unless it's necessary, and the method for determining this is using a borescope size camera to look under the intake manifold and check for the dastardly pink death. My IS F only had small leaking at 180k (or so, I don't remember the mileage exactly), but my GS F had a lake of dried coolant I had to chip out at only 130k miles.
At your mileage, there's not a lot to be worried about. At twice your mileage, you'll likely need a radiator because the upper tank typically develops leaks around 120k. It's worth inspecting, but I'm really doubtful you're going to need a new one any time soon. Same with the coolant pump.
Timing chains and tensioners are dependent on oil quality. When I replaced mine at 220k miles (or so), the chains and tensioners were all in good condition - 25% worn by the factory test method. I replaced them because it's no small job to remove the timing cover, and I needed to replace one of the tensioners with an updated part to stop a start up rattle that was really annoying, but not doing any harm as evidenced by the chain and tensioner wear measurements. Another member with considerably less mileage (but still well over 100k) said his chains were worn out when he replaced them. I'm not sure what to make of this other than I know the entire history of my car because I bought it new. I know exactly what oil has been used for its entire life. There is no simple way of checking the cam drive chains without removing the timing cover, and again, that's not a small job.
HTH.
Transmission fluid is not nearly the big deal some make it out to be. If it were mine, I'd drain the pan, refill and set the level. It should be about 5.5 quarts, or about half the amount of a dry fill. I didn't touch mine until 150k miles.
Oil analysis is what you pay for. Blackstone's analysis isn't very special, and their equipment isn't the same as the more expensive labs. I use them because mass spectrometry isn't difficult or expensive. If you're concerned about fuel dilution, flash point, or other parameters, you need a better lab. There are quite a few, just look for ISO certification if you want results to a traceable standard. I'm not that picky. I'm really only interested in wear metals.
The valley plate is really the only thing to be "concerned" about because it seems they all fail from the factory at one point or another. There's no point in doing this unless it's necessary, and the method for determining this is using a borescope size camera to look under the intake manifold and check for the dastardly pink death. My IS F only had small leaking at 180k (or so, I don't remember the mileage exactly), but my GS F had a lake of dried coolant I had to chip out at only 130k miles.
At your mileage, there's not a lot to be worried about. At twice your mileage, you'll likely need a radiator because the upper tank typically develops leaks around 120k. It's worth inspecting, but I'm really doubtful you're going to need a new one any time soon. Same with the coolant pump.
Timing chains and tensioners are dependent on oil quality. When I replaced mine at 220k miles (or so), the chains and tensioners were all in good condition - 25% worn by the factory test method. I replaced them because it's no small job to remove the timing cover, and I needed to replace one of the tensioners with an updated part to stop a start up rattle that was really annoying, but not doing any harm as evidenced by the chain and tensioner wear measurements. Another member with considerably less mileage (but still well over 100k) said his chains were worn out when he replaced them. I'm not sure what to make of this other than I know the entire history of my car because I bought it new. I know exactly what oil has been used for its entire life. There is no simple way of checking the cam drive chains without removing the timing cover, and again, that's not a small job.
HTH.
Another 2013 ISF, we are a rare breed. Welcome aboard.
I serviced my transmission (I do have a lift and a live data capable scan tool), not bad at all, I'm at 44,000 miles.
I would personally check/change the following if it wasn't done:
- Engine oil/filter
- Rear diff fluid
- Clean or replace the air filter (I run aFe)
- Cabin air filter
Otherwise should be good to go.
I serviced my transmission (I do have a lift and a live data capable scan tool), not bad at all, I'm at 44,000 miles.
I would personally check/change the following if it wasn't done:
- Engine oil/filter
- Rear diff fluid
- Clean or replace the air filter (I run aFe)
- Cabin air filter
Otherwise should be good to go.
Another 2013 ISF, we are a rare breed. Welcome aboard.
I serviced my transmission (I do have a lift and a live data capable scan tool), not bad at all, I'm at 44,000 miles.
I would personally check/change the following if it wasn't done:
- Engine oil/filter
- Rear diff fluid
- Clean or replace the air filter (I run aFe)
- Cabin air filter
Otherwise should be good to go.
I serviced my transmission (I do have a lift and a live data capable scan tool), not bad at all, I'm at 44,000 miles.
I would personally check/change the following if it wasn't done:
- Engine oil/filter
- Rear diff fluid
- Clean or replace the air filter (I run aFe)
- Cabin air filter
Otherwise should be good to go.
I’m almost done with this list, also replaced the drive belt tensioner and drive belt. Also a cool finding while my tech had it in the shop 😂
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