I’m up against a bit of a challenge with my install of the PPE GESI catted headers. Anyone that can share their experience would be greatly appreciated.

The first question is did you have to bend the oil dipstick to get it into the appropriate location? If so, any tips you can provide on the best method to make the bends?

My second question is for anyone with PPE GESI catted or the standard non-catted PPE UEL version. Does your oil dipstick completely clear the headers once it’s in place, meaning it’s not touching any part of the header? I would think that the dipstick should completely clear the headers, but not sure if that is correct or not with these headers.

TIA

 

I don't have aftermarket headers, but I remember seeing this on their website:

https://ppeengineering.com/product/l...dipstick-tube/

Seems like the Equal Length (EL) setup needs some bending of the dipstick tube where the Unequal Length (UEL) does not.

 

I needed to slightly bend my dipstick to clear the headers. I don't remember the specifics but it was very minor bending needed and I did it with my hands. No rubbing or any dipstick issues since install 2 years ago.

 

For anyone installing UEL GESI catted or UEL non-catted headers and have questions regarding the oil dipstick fitment. Below is the definitive answer directly from Paul at PPE.

“The oil dipstick tube doesn’t require any bending to fit. It goes between the tubes of the header and will be touching the runners when it is installed which is normal. Make sure the o-ring is installed all the way into the oil pan when installing.”

Didn’t see this info anywhere so hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Note: This does NOT apply to EL headers

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I was advised it’s normal for the dipstick to touch the runner without bending the dipstick tube, but I’m curious, do you recall if the slight bending you did prevented the dipstick tube from touching the runners?

 

This is exactly what I did. I was not keen on having the dipstick tube touching the header at all.

Honestly, the hardest part of the install was getting all the nuts properly tightened. You really need to drop the engine quite a bit to get access to the right side rear nuts. I ended up using a 1/4" universal with a socket to get to the rearmost nut, and that was problematic simply because the new gaskets crush as you tighten so you need to make at least 3 passes to get the header properly tightened.

 

I don't recall for certain but I'm pretty sure that's why I bent it.