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200t start up, high idle need to wait..

 
Old 05-15-19, 04:09 PM
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Tharr62
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Default 200t start up, high idle need to wait..

Just got a CPO 2016 with 23K on it. Great car so far, and I like the 200t.

From a "cold" start here in Miami (not actually cold, but the first start from sitting overnight lets say).. the RPM's come on at around 1.5K and bounce slightly for a few seconds, and then after about.. oh, say 30sec (maybe 45) I then see the tach "pop / blip" to around 2K (for a split second) and then it comes down to about 1K.

However, when I shift into drive from this point I will feel a soft "jolt" from the transmission (converter I assume) as the revs are still just a bit high. If I wait a bit longer, and let the RPMS settle to say 800 ish.. then its perfect. But this can take a bit.

All other starts and stops throughout the day are fine. It's just that first one of the day I see this.

Normal?

EDIT - To be honest I saw this in my 2015 RX 350 too. However, it was a much faster process.. and never got a jolt even if the RPMS were exactly at 1K and not the normal 800 they should be. Granted that is a different drive train.. but I know part of this is normal just from that.
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Old 05-15-19, 09:00 PM
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m1919
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Yeah, that seems normal. Just drive it gentle for the first few minutes until coolant and oil temp start to come up.

I keep the brake depressed for half a second when shifting into drive so the car doesn't just jolt after shifting into gear after a cold start. Transmission is going to be warm most of the day unless it's cold out, so I would expect it should be less pronounced the rest of the day.
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Old 05-16-19, 09:13 AM
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just car doing car things. nothing to see here.
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Old 05-16-19, 09:29 AM
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Couldn't describe my daily mornings on my IS 200t better then what you described here. In February here in PA it was -4 degrees Fahrenheit , imagine that startup and first minute of the drive LOL.
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Old 05-16-19, 11:45 AM
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I made a video...

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Old 05-16-19, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
Thatís perfectly normal man absolutely exactly like my IS and mine is a 2018. That blip is the ECU ending the cold start sequence basically. Once that happens thatís when I know itís time to go into Drive and start rolling.
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Old 05-16-19, 12:05 PM
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That’s perfectly normal man absolutely exactly like my IS and mine is a 2018. That blip is the ECU ending the cold start sequence basically. Once that happens that’s when I know it’s time to go into Drive and start rolling.
Perfect! Thanks so much! Thats what I wanted to know! :-) Big help!
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Old 05-16-19, 12:36 PM
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That's pretty much the behavior on all cars by any manufacturer.

Ford Taurus
Honda Accord
Kia Sephia
Honda Del Sol
Ford F150
Lexus RX350



and by the way, the time to "go in to drive and start rolling" is immediately upon startup. immediately. no need to wait for a "sequence" or what have you. this isn't a rocketship. just a mass produced consumer good. you're doing your engine and the environment more harm than good by "waiting for *her* to warm up" before taking off.
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Old 05-16-19, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by E46CT View Post
That's pretty much the behavior on all cars by any manufacturer.

Ford Taurus
Honda Accord
Kia Sephia
Honda Del Sol
Ford F150
Lexus RX350



and by the way, the time to "go in to drive and start rolling" is immediately upon startup. immediately. no need to wait for a "sequence" or what have you. this isn't a rocketship. just a mass produced consumer good. you're doing your engine and the environment more harm than good by "waiting for *her* to warm up" before taking off.
I disagree, as soon as the blip happens thatís when I know the car is done circulating a bit of the oil which is about 30 seconds.
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Old 05-16-19, 12:56 PM
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haha. i've been around the block youngin'. some bmw boys tried this on the forums too, the old "wait til she warms right up before driving off" spiel. I've been telling the BMW forums about doing an article on this but i haven't had time or the care really to do it.

but in a nutshell it's not necessary at all and as i said, does more harm than good. your car warms up most efficiently and safely by driving it right away. and in fact, i had a little perk in my step the other month when engineering explained did a video on just this topic supporting what i've been telling forums for over 10 years.

I always say DO NOT WARM up your car by idling it.

START IT

PUT ON YOUR SEATBELT

DROP IT IN DRIVE AND GO. Right away. no waiting.

thats plenty enough time for the "oil to circulate"

Trust me, you're wasting your time and doing more harm than good by waiting for your car to "blip" and warm up, before driving off.

That has nothing to do with the "oil circulating."

The oil is circulated instantly the moment the engine is cranking and especially once its started. otherwise you'd get a oil pressure warning. i've rebuilt enough engines to know how this stuff works. just take what i say as fact.

One way to think of this is think of Toyota hybrids. The cars start out w/ electric power than continue acceleration the instant the ICE is kicked on. That means the oil is circulated the very instant the engine kicks on due to engines having mechanically driven oil pumps. It's not a process unless you live in siberia.

I get the mindset though. being a prized possession, often of a young guy, and treating it like its an F1 race car. All these cars are built to operate under all conditions and are just consumer goods.

Personally I either drop it in drive as my finger is literally still almost on the start button (meaning instantly) or I'll give it 5 seconds or so but that's just to put myseat belt on and to turn on the music i want. i give little to no thought of the engine doing this or that. That is to say I don't drive it aggressively until the engine trans and diff are up to temp, but i do drive it. The more efficient and better way to warm it up. This is also backed by other manufacturers btw. i can go on and on.

Let the car work for you, not the other way around.
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Old 05-16-19, 01:05 PM
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I'm sure your correct ^ It's just too bad that there is a "thud" / jolt from the transition of gear if not "warmed up". So, less to do with the engine and more to do with the trans I guess. If it were totally smooth I would do it, thats the only thing I see as not too good to do everyday / am.
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Old 05-16-19, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by E46CT View Post
haha. i've been around the block youngin'. some bmw boys tried this on the forums too, the old "wait til she warms right up before driving off" spiel. I've been telling the BMW forums about doing an article on this but i haven't had time or the care really to do it.

but in a nutshell it's not necessary at all and as i said, does more harm than good. your car warms up most efficiently and safely by driving it right away. and in fact, i had a little perk in my step the other month when engineering explained did a video on just this topic supporting what i've been telling forums for over 10 years.

I always say DO NOT WARM up your car by idling it.

START IT

PUT ON YOUR SEATBELT

DROP IT IN DRIVE AND GO. Right away. no waiting.

thats plenty enough time for the "oil to circulate"

Trust me, you're wasting your time and doing more harm than good by waiting for your car to "blip" and warm up, before driving off.

That has nothing to do with the "oil circulating."

The oil is circulated instantly the moment the engine is cranking and especially once its started. otherwise you'd get a oil pressure warning. i've rebuilt enough engines to know how this stuff works. just take what i say as fact.

One way to think of this is think of Toyota hybrids. The cars start out w/ electric power than continue acceleration the instant the ICE is kicked on. That means the oil is circulated the very instant the engine kicks on due to engines having mechanically driven oil pumps. It's not a process unless you live in siberia.

I get the mindset though. being a prized possession, often of a young guy, and treating it like its an F1 race car. All these cars are built to operate under all conditions and are just consumer goods.

Personally I either drop it in drive as my finger is literally still almost on the start button (meaning instantly) or I'll give it 5 seconds or so but that's just to put myseat belt on and to turn on the music i want. i give little to no thought of the engine doing this or that. That is to say I don't drive it aggressively until the engine trans and diff are up to temp, but i do drive it. The more efficient and better way to warm it up. This is also backed by other manufacturers btw. i can go on and on.

Let the car work for you, not the other way around.
To each their own. While I donít agree with people waiting minutes before driving off, I donít agree with driving off immediately. I wait till the blip then go. Just my personal preference even if not necessary. Not everyone has to do what you do either way by the time I do what I need to do in the car like set my playlist buckle up etc itís been at least 30 seconds to a minute so doesnít matter.
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Old 05-16-19, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Flash5 View Post
To each their own. While I donít agree with people waiting minutes before driving off, I donít agree with driving off immediately. I wait till the blip then go. Just my personal preference even if not necessary. Not everyone has to do what you do either way by the time I do what I need to do in the car like set my playlist buckle up etc itís been at least 30 seconds to a minute so doesnít matter.
I follow the same. By the time I get my belt on and chose my music, cold start cycle is pretty much done and I'm heading out.
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Old 05-16-19, 05:42 PM
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Hi. My routine usually includes a 10-20 seconds before putting in Drive after the engine Start . Sometimes, the cold idle final tick is happening, sometimes not. In the winter however things are more complicated, and usually we become victims of long idling.
And btw, I agree 100% with what E46CT said above, don't wait - just drive.

However, the reason I am posting here is a bit different. First, I am amazed by how long it takes for you guys to have the revs settled down (watched the youtube vid as well). I have the same 200t engine, 2016, but living in Europe/Romania. I don't remember such a long waiting time, not even last winter when we constantly had below 10 (fahrenheit) degrees. And not even when I went to a trip to the mountains and those nights were damn cold (below -10 Fahrenheit degrees). So, this must be a thing, either caused by a different ECU software, gasoline, engine oil or maybe a combination of these.

Also, regarding that transmission jolt, I think sometimes it may be a contributing factor the way the driver has done the parking routine on the previous trip. For example, if you stop the vehicle on the parking spot, then put the transmission in park (optional: use the footbrake/handbrake) then the next time you start the car, you will get a jolt. If you stop the vehicle on the parking spot, put transmission on Neutral then keeping the brakes firm and applying the footbrake/handbrake and finally moving the transmission lever to Park, you could avoid the jolt the next time when starting the car. In my case, when doing that I rarely have such a jolt.
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Old 05-16-19, 05:58 PM
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I think sometimes it may be a contributing factor the way the driver has done the parking routine on the previous trip. For example, if you stop the vehicle on the parking spot, then put the transmission in park (optional: use the footbrake/handbrake) then the next time you start the car, you will get a jolt. If you stop the vehicle on the parking spot, put transmission on Neutral then keeping the brakes firm and applying the footbrake/handbrake and finally moving the transmission lever to Park, you could avoid the jolt the next time when starting the car. In my case, when doing that I rarely have such a jolt.
Good info! I am going to try this next time!

I learned a long time ago that using the parking brake is good, as it takes strain off the pins in the transmission. However, I have been keep my foot on brake pedal, then shift lever to park, then foot brake, then release brake pedal. So, I will pause in "N" then apply parking brake, then move to "P" and then release normal brakes and see how this may change if any :-)
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