popopanda

Hey guys,

Im going to be replacing my brake pads and rotors on my 2016 IS 200T F sport, due to a warped rotor and worn pads. I've previously taken all car maintences to the dealer, but it's gotten pretty expensive for brake jobs. I've watched various youtube videos and community posts that others have shared. Im ordering the tools now, and have a general idea of what to do, except for a few questions.

1. Is this ok to use as a lube for shims and back of the pads?
   Amazon
   Amazon
   Or should I be using copper anti seize?
2. What is the socket size to remove the caliper bolts?
3. What is the torque spec for the caliper bolts?
4. Someone mind confirming if the wheel lug nut socket size is 21mm?

Any help appreciated

Thanks!

Sasnuke

Havien't seen/used that specific product before. Typically on the pad backing before the shims go on I use the copper anti-seize, as well as the edges of the pad where it slides into the caliper (for the front brakes) or the edge of the pads where it fits into the caliper bracket (for the rear brakes).
For any slider pins I would use a silicone lube...similar to the product you linked.

So to address your questions (assuming you're doing the front only):

1. I would use the copper anti-seize...although the linked product claims to do the same, pretty much
2. 17mm
3. 100ft lbs
4. Original nuts? Yes it's 21mm

itsx

If you're located in the Bay Area i might be able to help you out.
I'd use copper anti-seize for the hardware. Caliper sliding bolts if you choose to lube em use a silicone based lube.
Like Sasnuke said, caliper bolt is 100ft lbs per the manual
and wheel lugs are 21mm

I thought this video was pretty well made

E46CT

Use this and this only for brake lube: https://amzn.to/2MIJxOA

Apply on piston to shim, between shims, and shim to piston. Basically all the layers of contact from the piston to the pad. VERY light coating. and pad ears where it contacts the caliper block. LIGHTLY. I havent had a squeak come back since

tools, see my DIY thread in signature.

PS don't do the drilled/slotted rotors. they suck. Extreme groaning.

Edit: fixed link

Pads, go professionial OEM German F Sport. The germans know what they're doing. This is why Lexus chose them! And why BMW, Mercedes, Porsche does too.

itsx

It's still showing up as rtv...

Sasnuke

Yeah, let's not use rtv silicone on the brakes.
Although after it bonds everything together in 24 hours, i wonder how well the brakes will function lol
Let's NOT find out

E46CT

Here you go. damn clipboard error https://amzn.to/2MIJxOA

itsx

I always thought that their copper anti seize had a higher temp tolerance than the ceramic. Curious why you pick the ceramic over copper

Flash5

popopanda

I'm pretty stumped .I can't remove the rotor. I've tried hammering it .What else can I do to remove the rotor?

itsx

It's likely seized on there. You're gonna have to hit the rotor harder like a donkey kick. Alternating between different sides, top bottom sides etc. That's how i got mine off

popopanda

I went and got a bigger hammer and wd40 . No luck .

On the video it shows the guy screwing a bolt to remove the stuck rotor, what is the size for that?

Thanks

popopanda

Just to confirm. There's no screw or bolt holding the rotor right?

CLUM

no, no bolts holding the rotor on. screw bolt into one or both of the holes to pop the rotor off, or grab a mallet/hammer and smack the rotor from the backside (avoiding the heatshield) if you are going to replace the rotor anyway. If you are keeping the rotor to resurface, then use the bolt method.

popopanda

Phew, just finished. After hitting it for a while it finally came off. I'm pretty surprised that was the hardest bit of the whole process

But glad that I'm finally finished, and once I finished with one wheel. The second wheel was rather simple.

I appreciate all the advices! Thank you very much!

Last question. Are the brake pads suppose to rub on the rotor when I spin the rotors? .
After attaching the tire wheel back to the hub, i noticed it doesnt spin freely either



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