IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

Alternator or Battery?

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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 06:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jennypenny
Tested again this morning, cold start (after 48 hours of idle)

The Voltage for:
Engine off (60 hours of idle): 12.41 V
Engine running: 13.66 V
Engine running: 13.86 V (with Revs)
Engine off (straight after running): 12.63 V

Any feedback is helpful
Try doing a parasitic drain test. make sure to let it sit for 20 mins or so, to make sure everything shuts off. anything over 30mah means something is drawing too much power when the car is off.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 07:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jennypenny
Tested again this morning, cold start (after 48 hours of idle)

The Voltage for:
Engine off (60 hours of idle): 12.41 V
Engine running: 13.66 V
Engine running: 13.86 V (with Revs)
Engine off (straight after running): 12.63 V

Any feedback is helpful
Your off time voltage seems low. Batteries are temperature sensitive. If for example you measured it 4 hrs after the engine cooled and again 24 and 48 hrs, then you can comapare if the ambient temperature is within +/-10° F of original. As the battery temperature decreases so does its voltage. Something like 0.01v for every 25°F below 70°F... Not a huge amount but it also goes up with underhood temps the same amount... What are your current ambient temps??

At a glance your battery is loosing ground pretty rapidly.
If you can find a shop and/or gain access to hand held volt meter with current measuring ability, I would connect it test it all doors closed. Lights off. Hood closed.

Get current draw in mA.
Looking through the fuses and system on my 2IS and knowing the gateway computer on many Lexus cars has been impacted, look through your owners manual and pull the fuses on the circuits listed here to see if the current draw drops to something under 15mA.
MPX, ACC, ECU-IG RH, MULTIPLEX COMMUNICATION.

IMO - A good tech could do current draw tests in less than 20min and not damage anything. Just selectively pull fuses to isolate current draw. The tricky part is door and hood switches need retained in the closed position to get valid data.

Which reminds me, have you confirmed the dome and trunk lights are in fact off when the vehicle is secure?
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 12:57 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Your off time voltage seems low. Batteries are temperature sensitive. If for example you measured it 4 hrs after the engine cooled and again 24 and 48 hrs, then you can comapare if the ambient temperature is within +/-10° F of original. As the battery temperature decreases so does its voltage. Something like 0.01v for every 25°F below 70°F... Not a huge amount but it also goes up with underhood temps the same amount... What are your current ambient temps??

At a glance your battery is loosing ground pretty rapidly.
If you can find a shop and/or gain access to hand held volt meter with current measuring ability, I would connect it test it all doors closed. Lights off. Hood closed.

Get current draw in mA.
Looking through the fuses and system on my 2IS and knowing the gateway computer on many Lexus cars has been impacted, look through your owners manual and pull the fuses on the circuits listed here to see if the current draw drops to something under 15mA.
MPX, ACC, ECU-IG RH, MULTIPLEX COMMUNICATION.

IMO - A good tech could do current draw tests in less than 20min and not damage anything. Just selectively pull fuses to isolate current draw. The tricky part is door and hood switches need retained in the closed position to get valid data.

Which reminds me, have you confirmed the dome and trunk lights are in fact off when the vehicle is secure?
My ambient temperature is around 91F. Will look for a shop to do a current draw test

Dome lights and trunk lights are off.

Thanks!
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 07:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jennypenny
yes, dealer said, nothing is wrong with the gateway ECU.
Unless the dealer measured the current draw, there is no way they would know this. I would stay on them to fix this one. Anything left of your warranty?
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 04:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Unless the dealer measured the current draw, there is no way they would know this. I would stay on them to fix this one. Anything left of your warranty?
No. Out of warranty 2 years ago
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 05:31 PM
  #21  
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I purchased a CPO Lexus IS250 6 months ago. The first thing that went bad was the battery. It wouldn't stay charged. Ended up being the EU.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...d-threads.html
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 05:32 PM
  #22  
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The ECU and battery was changed out.
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 10:42 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DJSpeed
I had the same issue. autozone said it was good. I bought a new battery anyways. and now 5 months later its still going strong
Tier One top quality battery? Higher than normal battery drain when car is parked is something iwrong with ECU or software, IMO. German cars have
some intelligent battery power management system. It's goal is at any circumstances to safe guard minimum battery power to start the car. For an example
if bettery is getting low, system will disable door handle sensors. Touch the door handle, it won't unlock.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 02:05 PM
  #24  
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I have a L Certified 2015 IS250 FSport. And I had my ECU replaced the 1st week I owned the car when the battery died.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 07:34 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Htony
Tier One top quality battery? Higher than normal battery drain when car is parked is something iwrong with ECU or software, IMO. German cars have
some intelligent battery power management system. It's goal is at any circumstances to safe guard minimum battery power to start the car. For an example
if bettery is getting low, system will disable door handle sensors. Touch the door handle, it won't unlock.
My 2018 will shut everything off if it detects the battery is getting low. If I’m in the car with the car off listening to music it shuts off after a while and the screen even tells you battery protection or something like that and everything electronic shuts off.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 09:41 AM
  #26  
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Are all your voltage readings across the battery terminals? If you havent done so try testing between the alternator and the battery while having all your loads on. If the alternator is good you should be at or above 14V
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 02:03 PM
  #27  
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You can go old school. Start the car and pull the negative cable. If the car dies your alternator is bad. I have no idea and take ZERO responsibility if you break something.
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 08:12 PM
  #28  
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Just had my 2014 battery die on me. Battery was less than a year old. I took it to the dealer and they confirmed the Gateway ECU was drawing power and will replace with the new PN.

Has anyone had the issue continue after replacement with new ECU?
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 07:05 AM
  #29  
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How are your battery cables and connectors? If you have some corrosion on them, it will affect your car. I had this same thing happen to my toyota truck many years ago. Went through some the same issues. Replaced the battery and that helped for a day or 2. I figured it was the starter going bad, so I replaced that myself. After still not getting any improvement, I had my mechanic look at it. He knew I replaced the battery and starter, so he checked out the battery connectors, and they needed to be replaced.
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 08:23 AM
  #30  
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You should have well over 14V with the engine running. Around 14.4 is the norm in my days of diagnosing cars. 13.5 is low. The car is so new so I'm not sure if the IS has an internal voltage regulator or external (replaceable). I would look into the alternator (and battery) more on that later..

alternator would never directly prevent your car from starting.

it will prevent the battery from recharging.

I've had auto parts store say a battery tested fine when it was bad. Go get a new battery. you need one anyway regardless of whether or not it's your battery/alternator. 5 years is about the mark where I tell people to replace them, even if your car still does start.

So in short, certainly get a new battery. and i would probably take another look at that alternator.
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