ClubLUser

iTrader: (1)

Hey just wondering if there is any negative effects to adjusting rear camber to 0 degrees. I have a set of SPC rear camber arms, and want to increase tire life... I know it comes with -2 degrees or so for Cornering purposes, unless I got that info wrong lol.

SikhSipahi

You can't just set it to 0. It depends on your wheels/tire and suspension setup. If you are so worried about tire life, why mess around with the suspension?

specONE

iTrader: (3)

Toe eats tire faster than camber

berniebenz

You have no basis for that misleading statement! He can set camber to any reasonable value that he wishes. In general for any DD car, max tire life will occur when all wheels are at zero camber and zero toe.

SikhSipahi

Did you read the post?? Oh ya set it to any value, do you know his wheel and suspension setup?? Yupp buddy set it to 0 with 19x11 +35 with car lowered to ground.

Jay89

Not necessarily. It depends on the suspension geometry, as some vehicles are designed to have some positive or negative toe when static, but when moving, toe will actually move and either go to zero or close to it. So setting it at zero when static when the specs don't call for it may actually cause some toe related tire wear.

camber actually doesn't affect tire wear per se, rather it affects only where a tire is worn. So essentially, you're wearing on thickest part of the tire or the thinner edges. It would also affect cornering to some degree. On a regular dd, if you'd like to help maximize the tire, try 1-1.5 degrees of camber.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

DD or not it also depends how the vehicle is used. Ran down the interstate vs the DD that comes through the canyon every day.

For the most part the rear has more negative camber than the front so the driver feels the car plow into a corner making them uncomfortable so they back out of the throttle before spinning out.

Back to negative camber - Do to suspensiom geometry and loading, a zero camber/zero toe combo could wear the outside edges of the tire if the vehicle is pushed into the corners....

My Mazda 6 had -2.0 F and -2.5° R and no signs of inner wear as the car was pushed into the corners daily and ran down the interstate 60mi a day...

Incoreect Tire pressure is likely the #1 destroyer of tires as people set them to a static value either from the tires MAX load rating and ignore the wear pattern shown by the axle set.

Low pressure = both inner & outer edges rounded off
High pressure = center blown out. Common when tires are set to max load index but the vehicle runs around empty. Void of passengers and cargo. POINT: read the tire and adjust pressure to achieve even wear across the tire...

Last little bit: The grocery getter car spending it's life doing short trips and in and out of the mall parking will scrub off the front tires edges from higher caster values and toe-out on turns than the freeway car. This will need a pressure bump to get even wear across those front tires.

jkonquer

This,

Our vehicles have dynamic toe issue. Anything under -3.0 camber isn't a huge deal for wearing the tires. It is the dynamic toe wear. Our vehicles actually comes with positive toe which should causes outer edge wear but it doesn't.
-1.0 camber is a ideal for rear setup but it won't help with the inner edge wear.

ClubLUser

iTrader: (1)

Im at stock height, 19x8.5 summer and 17x8.5 winter wheels at ET 35.

I have the arms now, so that I can adjust camber if I need to. Its a DD, with spirited driving occasional, nothing with hard hairpins or the likes.

I was just under the impression that the camber of 0 would help with inner tire wear off the rear wheels, as I took off the stock set and they were pretty ruined...

I've moved to a square set up and like to keep all kinds of wear to a minimal.

dnasians

iTrader: (4)

if you're at stock height, im sure most members here will recommend you just leave the rest of the suspension components alone!!!

if you're destroying tires at stock height, get an alignment and you should be good

Sasnuke

Um...yeah...there is a grocery list of reasons why you don't want to zero out all the specs.
In theory (and that's "theory" with big air quotes), tire life would be maximized if you did.
But since you'd never want to drive the car with all the specs at zero, then tire life won't be an issue...since the car would never move.
You need a little negative camber for the car to corner properly and even indirectly for straight line stability.
Best case scenario, have an alignment done and have them set the camber to the minimum of the manufacturer spec range.
That's your best compromise between tire life and ride quality/safety.

600rr

SPC kit is $150 and an alignment is about $100.
You've already spent more than 1/4 of the cost for your next set of wheels. Absolutely not worth it.

berniebenz

Maybe you mean 1/4 the cost of next set of tires.
Cheapest way to adjust nonadjustable camber is to shim the bolt on wheel bearings.
A simple calc. BTDT on my Audi A6, front camber shimmed to -0.5 deg. Rear was already there.

dizlex

You're going to ruin your handling, to save a few dollars? You may have well bought some crappy. You could have saved a lot.

berniebenz

Huh! you speak nonsense!
This is a free opinion forum, not a consensus forum!
My suggestion is a tested, zero out of pocket cost DIY solution.
Obviously not many total DIYers on the Lexus community.