Subwoofer Install DIY on Factory non-ML Amp. 2016 IS200t -- too easy.
08-23-17, 03:55 PM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Just a heads up. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this but I wired my amp and sub the same way you did (BTW!!! THANKS FOR THE INSTALL PROCEDURE!!!) and my system sounds great. Issue,....Due to the dynamics of the is200t sterio system I have amazing bass up to about 30. Once I hit 31 I notice that the bass starts to fade off a bit all the way up to say 45. Thus being that the system has a stock processor that is designed to keep you from blowing your speakers. That is great if we were dealing with the stock speakers but when you add a sub and amp you want to get the max benefit out of it. I have personally not been able to fix this issue yet. There are various processors available to helop this issue but I have yet to do it. I'm getting old so my speakers don't generally get turned up past 30 now a days anyway. Just a heads up about the issue with Lexus head units and the install.
08-23-17, 07:47 PM
#18
08-24-17, 04:15 PM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I gotta update this thread with new pics of the new setup. the box simply has a pair of speaker wires and nothing else now. removal is a breeze.
11-07-17, 06:26 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ca
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Firewall
I am having problems finding where you ran the wire from the passager side foot well through the firewall. I can't seem to find the rubber that you punctured. Can you take a picture of your cable please?
08-05-18, 04:54 PM
#24
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I updated the pics to show the cleaned up install. Relocated amp to the trunk lower bin on driver side and just ran a speaker wire to the box. Quick disconnect in less than 10 seconds if i need trunk room.
10-09-18, 05:59 PM
#25
I just recently got my Fosgate Punch P300-12 installed. I tapped into the feed wire going to the factory sub on the rear deck. When i turn the volume higher, the sub starts putting out less. After seeing your write up, I will probably tap into the "pre-amp" wires for the rear speakers instead, and get a clean, unaltered signal. Awesome write up. If I had known, the factory amp was that close to the rear, I wouldnt have dicked with the rear sub for 2 hours (PITA). By the way, I've been running this sub for 8 years on 3 different cars. Best "bang for the buck" sub ever. Built in amp & crossover all in one box, and I never have it at full strength. And even has the remote gain control ****.
10-11-18, 08:29 AM
#26
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I just recently got my Fosgate Punch P300-12 installed. I tapped into the feed wire going to the factory sub on the rear deck. When i turn the volume higher, the sub starts putting out less. After seeing your write up, I will probably tap into the "pre-amp" wires for the rear speakers instead, and get a clean, unaltered signal. Awesome write up. If I had known, the factory amp was that close to the rear, I wouldnt have dicked with the rear sub for 2 hours (PITA). By the way, I've been running this sub for 8 years on 3 different cars. Best "bang for the buck" sub ever. Built in amp & crossover all in one box, and I never have it at full strength. And even has the remote gain control ****.
10-11-18, 09:47 AM
#27
I just recently got my Fosgate Punch P300-12 installed. I tapped into the feed wire going to the factory sub on the rear deck. When i turn the volume higher, the sub starts putting out less. After seeing your write up, I will probably tap into the "pre-amp" wires for the rear speakers instead, and get a clean, unaltered signal. Awesome write up. If I had known, the factory amp was that close to the rear, I wouldnt have dicked with the rear sub for 2 hours (PITA). By the way, I've been running this sub for 8 years on 3 different cars. Best "bang for the buck" sub ever. Built in amp & crossover all in one box, and I never have it at full strength. And even has the remote gain control ****.
10-11-18, 10:16 AM
#28
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
lets say if you're at ikea or something and decided to purchase something larger. i move the box to the back seat area in 5 seconds. its more convenient for unplanned scenarios. or even planned ones
also you wouldn't have a live 12V wire hanging out in the trunk
10-11-18, 10:24 AM
#29
that's what i'm worried about. my setup takes literally 5 seconds to disconnect if i need trunk space. i push on the two terminals with my thumb and the wires come out. not even 5 seconds.
lets say if you're at ikea or something and decided to purchase something larger. i move the box to the back seat area in 5 seconds. its more convenient for unplanned scenarios. or even planned ones
also you wouldn't have a live 12V wire hanging out in the trunk
lets say if you're at ikea or something and decided to purchase something larger. i move the box to the back seat area in 5 seconds. its more convenient for unplanned scenarios. or even planned ones
also you wouldn't have a live 12V wire hanging out in the trunk
the live wire is easy, i just put a cap on it that's already attached at the end of it, i'm using a pseudo quick disconnect for all the connections - remote, power, and speaker wires.
10-11-18, 10:52 AM
#30
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
well not really 5 mins, that was a bit exagerated, maybe 90 secs tops if moving slow. it's fast enough for me either way
the live wire is easy, i just put a cap on it that's already attached at the end of it, i'm using a pseudo quick disconnect for all the connections - remote, power, and speaker wires.
the live wire is easy, i just put a cap on it that's already attached at the end of it, i'm using a pseudo quick disconnect for all the connections - remote, power, and speaker wires.