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Don't you think with technological advancement and the new breed of turbos this problem is mitigated? also define a long drive? also don't you think in the R&D phase this would have been obvious to Lexus and they would have advised it in the manual?
I think it's more common sense than 'advance techno' in this case. When you drive hard, oil can coolant are HOT and if you shut down the engine right away, that HOT residual oil and coolant will sit there and cook the seals and dry up or some sluggy mess that eventually cause problem.
Other than time and a few drop of gasoline is wasted but you will help prolong the engine/turbo life.
I know the Supra's Turbo is the 'not so advance tech' stuff, and should be taking care properly. The turbo charge cool down warning label is stick right on the top of the door panel and by doing what suggested, the original Turbo in my 89 Supra still doing very darn good.
I think it's more common sense than 'advance techno' in this case. When you drive hard, oil can coolant are HOT and if you shut down the engine right away, that HOT residual oil and coolant will sit there and cook the seals and dry up or some sluggy mess that eventually cause problem.
Other than time and a few drop of gasoline is wasted but you will help prolong the engine/turbo life.
I know the Supra's Turbo is the 'not so advance tech' stuff, and should be taking care properly. The turbo charge cool down warning label is stick right on the top of the door panel and by doing what suggested, the original Turbo in my 89 Supra still doing very darn good.
Why havent you taken it to the dealer? it's a stupid $100 part that needs replacing. get it replaced under warranty
first off would need to remove the addons I had put to avoid voiding the warranty, and secondly where I am (Dubai) dealers are A holes and hard to deal with so am thinking to replace it myself but is there a new revision of the part?
first off would need to remove the addons I had put to avoid voiding the warranty, and secondly where I am (Dubai) dealers are A holes and hard to deal with so am thinking to replace it myself but is there a new revision of the part?
To replace the wastegate actuator that is attached to the turbo must be a very laborious procedure. Probably requires that the turbo (and maybe even the manifold) be removed from the engine, and all the surrounding parts, tubes, etc. to gain access to it all. That is, if it even is, in fact, the wastegate actuator.
Let's be honest, turbocharged engines are very fickle and have significantly more complex dynamics. It's possible that your aftermarket exhaust system is damaging and/or reducing the performance of the turbo system, perhaps due to decreased back-pressure, perhaps causing the turbo to spool differently than designed, or perhaps changing the way the emissions system makes adjustments to the fuel flow.
I don't know exactly but I do know if I were you I'd replace the stock components and take it into the dealer for warranty repair, and I'd do it soon. You'll save so much time and frustration (and a little money) I'd bet.
BTW, doesn't the IS 200t use a new wastegate design? I once read somewhere something like the new wastegate design doesn't include an actuator that activates to open the wastegate when exhaust pressure needs to be purged, but instead uses a carefully calibrated spring (pressure) that opens passively, on it's own, whenever exhaust pressure reaches the purge point. I think I recall Lexus making the argument that this design is less mechanically complex, is a passive design and is more reliable.
If this is the case then you really may need to bring the car into the dealership for them to perform warranty work.
God knows I've had my troubles with wastegate actuators on turbos in my previous cars. I hate turbos except on leases and rocket engines.
Took my 200t in for this repair. I left the aftermarket axle back on the car. Offsite Lexus "engineers" also came to see the car. Part was replaced, and no questions asked.
To replace the wastegate actuator that is attached to the turbo must be a very laborious procedure. Probably requires that the turbo (and maybe even the manifold) be removed from the engine, and all the surrounding parts, tubes, etc. to gain access to it all. That is, if it even is, in fact, the wastegate actuator.
Let's be honest, turbocharged engines are very fickle and have significantly more complex dynamics. It's possible that your aftermarket exhaust system is damaging and/or reducing the performance of the turbo system, perhaps due to decreased back-pressure, perhaps causing the turbo to spool differently than designed, or perhaps changing the way the emissions system makes adjustments to the fuel flow.
I don't know exactly but I do know if I were you I'd replace the stock components and take it into the dealer for warranty repair, and I'd do it soon. You'll save so much time and frustration (and a little money) I'd bet.
Happy Holidays!
It is interesting to me to read what you are saying about High Flow Cat, since all my life I have been told that it will allow more room for power Specially on a turbo car (I have my own experience with my Evo X) and just to add the cherry on top, I did stock the car completely and problem didn't go away and mind you it is not happening all the time which means its more or less a regulator issue not mechanical (spring), and the part that was mentioned earlier "25819-0W010" is actually the boost regulator so it makes sense, however what does not make sense to me is that lexus recognizes that there is an issue with this part and there s no revision for it
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
Thanks for the amazing informative input, but just for your info I had the issue even before installing the aftermarket parts
And the 100 engineers you swear by who are sitting developing stuff are just like you and me HUMAN and we all make mistakes in our jobs but more over their focus is designing something that won't come back to them for repairs frequently in order words if they make a 400 BHP engine they will detune it to maybe 280 BHP to cover the company's behind
love the posts about issues when owners go from non stock to their form of what the car should have and know better than than 100 engineers sitting in japan developing these motors and powertrains to be as flawless as possible
if you have issues with it take it in for warranty, and if they deny the claim because of the aftermarket changes then a lesson learned
leave a stock vehicle as is if it doesn't work for your with performance buy another car that does
happy holidays
If you refer to the other threads regarding the boost regulator, you'll see that several completely stock vehicles have also been affected.
You can gleen over at the NX200 forums; from what I know. they share the same engine and turbo as the IS200T
Haven't seen this issue posted once on the NX forum. Engines are the same but mounted differently (longitudinal in the IS vs transverse in the NX) though I can't think of why this would make a difference.
Originally Posted by UngBuck
would this issue caused by not letting the engine cool down after a long drive? the carbon and oil didn't run through the engine completely that's why it left sticking. i always warm up my car before i drive and idle my car at least 2 mins before shutting my engine off. all turbo charged engine needs to do this. my 200t is at 15k miles now and still no issues. car is fully stock though.
100% accurate. Always perform an idle cooldown and stated in the manual. I do this for 15-20 seconds in normal city driving and about 1 minute after prolonged highway use or more aggressive driving. Wife and I have done this religiously with the NX and no issues so far after two years of ownership already (21k miles).
I had the same symptoms and replaced the part myself, now I have a CEL that reads P25B4 - which is "unknown" from any scanner i've used and the dealer said the same thing when I asked them to look it up. Boost is dead from 2k-2.5k, even reducing rpm's if i'm WOT, but is atleast not shuddering anymore at 2.5-3k - but still not maintaining peak boost. The code cross references to ford eco-boost motors as a "stuck" wastegate. For frame of reference, can anyone verify which side each line goes (one is from the diverter valve, the other seems to go post intercooler)? One's vac, the other's out. What sucks more is I didn't have a CEL before I replaced this part. I can delete the code, but that doesn't exactly help me here.
Side note/rant...
It's disappointing that this forum is extremely active (all parts of it, not just this thread) but has no explicit information. Just a bunch of people ranting "go to the dealer" on every trouble thread. That's not what these boards are for; they're for us to work together to not go to the dealer.
Best regards, but if you tell me to go to the dealer I think you can imagine how I feel.
........ For frame of reference, can anyone verify which side each line goes (one is from the diverter valve, the other seems to go post intercooler)? One's vac, the other's out.....
(title = 2016-2018 lexus is200t Fsport vacuum regulator valve replacement, posted by Tino's DIY) look specifically at 25:40.
According to that guy, the insulated line goes on the outside of the valve, the other on the inside. I don't know first hand, as I have not changed this part, don't have issues with it although I'm at 75k (Km). But I would trust this guy
11-04-16, 09:54 AM
and mind you it is not happening all the time which means its more or less a regulator issue not mechanical (spring), and the part that was mentioned earlier "25819-0W010" is actually the boost regulator so it makes sense, however what does not make sense to me is that lexus recognizes that there is an issue with this part and there s no revision for it
yes really
but more over their focus is designing something that won't come back to them for repairs frequently in order words if they make a 400 BHP engine they will detune it to maybe 280 BHP to cover the company's behind
