Bought a new ECU for my 06 is250 and just want to know if it needs to be programmed or not? if so is it hard? do I need to go to the dealership to program it? thank you

 

YES!
A newly purchased ECU will need to have calibration performed and if installed first without calibration being performed, you loose power steering functionality. The USED, the USED ECU already uses the calibration from the donor vehicle and would not require calibration and would retain power steering function when installed however, as I'm finding out, believe a USED ECU should be calibrated to the new vehicle..

 

Engine ECU, EPS or something else?

 

Good point!!! Assumed it was in reference to power steering ECU (currently have been on that topic), overlooking original inquiry may have been regarding something else (not stated).

 

Sorry, new engine ECU, I asked 2 dealership (1 parts guy and 1 tech foremen) both said it does not need to be calibrated or program after install. Is that really true?

 

Calibrated, no. Paired to the immobilizer, yes.

Do a search for immobilizer pairing, there is like a 30min process to perform. Most of which is just waiting....

Why is it being replaced?

 

a shop diagnosed and confirmed ECU issue. It came so many different CEL codes and confirmed those codes are all good working order.

damn, I even asked the main service foreman guy if it needs to program for the immobilizer, he claim no. RIP

 

Some key words you need: registering immobilizer handshake or handshaking immobilizer and procedure.

It sounds like you should have keys paired to the immobilizer and you can install the new ECU/ECM. What you need is the procedure that basically uses a paper clip in the OBD port to short two pins while leeping the battery voltage above 12.4 volts for 30 minutes and you might be okay.

I'm on mobile or I'd work harder, but it's here. Search by posts, not by threads as some are very long...

 

Here you go, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QocuEYNE6KM

Process is:
Fully charge battery.
Discount battery, Ground first.
Replace ECM
Connect battery. Connect charger.
Ignition off, Jumper pins 4 and 13 of DLC (OBD port).
Single press Ignition On. Everything on dash flashes. Normal.
Leave it for exactly 30min.
30min up, Ignition off.
Remove paper clip from DLC.
Press brake and start engine. Report back if problem is resolved.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QocuEYNE6KM

lol same dude has a has a brute force method:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9lLW_qgWDHw

One for kicks and grins.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXgbSUQ0Yo

GL..

#2IS Engine ECU Replacement pairing immobilizer

 

Thanks but strangely Lexus oem part store just canceled my order because Lexus won't release it. I spoke to another dealer and according to them, Lexus won't sell the ECM unless it through a dealership that is doing the work as it requested the work order number, vin, miles, etc.. What BS is that, I can't even buy a brand new OEM ECU unless Lexus does the work for it -_-

 

Not to get your hopes up, but go talk to your local parts guy and see if there is a work around.

Also, if you can pull the original and take pictures of it, a common failure mode is aged electrolytic capacitors.

They can be identified by PCBA silkscreen as C1, C2 C3, etc and are a round canister. If they leak out the bottom and/or have a buldged top, they are bad. Take some pictures and do an image search for failed capacitor. You'll see what I'm talking about.

Also, PCBA is static sensitive, dont walk on the carpet and pick it up. Discharge yourself before touching it.

 

Just watched the video & I'm wondering if this is exactly what the Lexus technician was talking about saying there was "two wires" that needed to be used to jump it..


Possibly might try this on my 17' RC-F. Should I be concerned about anything before giving this a try?

Thank you!