Does Lexus dealership change it within some routine job (15k, 30k, etc) ?

I have my IS for 8 years and never did it, but I recently changed break pads front/rear, but nothing about brake fluid.

Level of brake fluid is ok, looks good.

 

I would have to look at my owners manual again but I believe it is a fairly aggressive 30k mile change interval. I change mine somewhere between every 30-60k.

 

Brake fluid should be changed every 2-3 years, emphasis on 2 when you live in a humid climate due to brake fluid being hygroscopic (meaning, absorbs water). Over time, the absorbed water lowers the boiling point and reduces brake performance. You usually see braking issues popping up in older cars/cars that have never had its brake fluid changed. This is also why it's recommended to just toss the bottle of brake fluid if there's any left as it'll just be sucking up the moisture in the air while it waits to be used however long later on. Maybe that's just me though, I like to keep on top of maintenance so I don't have issues as I tend to keep my cars for a while.

 

I agree with Zmon. While I don't think you need to rush in to get it done ASAP. I'd put it on the to do list next time the car is serviced. Unless you're selling it soon.

 

^^^ Spot on! +10

Adding to this; those who do their own pads AND simply shove those pistons back in the bore ARE NOT doing yourself any favors. All the trapped sediment is being forced back into the Master Cylinder which degrades the pistons and leads to failure.

Bare minimum when doing brakes; use a syringe or turkey baster and suck all of the fluid from the MC! Open a NEW bottle of fluid, top off MC.
When pushing pistons into the bore; OPEN the bleeder and let the fluid OUT! You don't want it going back up the line.

Even if only doing the fronts or rears, suck the MC dry, add new fluid every 3 years Max and Try to do it on the lowest humidity / driest day possible.

Bleed the brakes starting RR, LR, RF, LF using a helper to depress the pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder when the helper says its down, allow pedal.to rise and repeat until clean fluid comes out of all four corners!

Added tip: use dead blow hammer or block of hardwood to tap straight UP on each caliper while helper holds pedal pressure. This action will condense small trapped air bubbles into larger one and they'll rise and go out the bleeder when opened.

The reward is instant action brakes with zero freeplay!

 

I change mine every 2 years being down south in Houston. my fluid looked black when I flushed it out. If you just DD, just stick to regular DOT3 brake fluid. Don't waste your money on all the expensive crap.

 

Will do it with my next tire change next month. My factory tires are due for change and they are almost 8 years and some bubbles on a side and like 2mm of a tear left on them and driving in the city now only.

 

My GF Honda CRV had 10 year old tires. Had a blow out at 70 mph. Vehicle did two 360s and no one was hit or hurt. So glad you're getting new tires!! Not to open a can of worms but tirerack.com has a nice consumer review section if you're looking to see how others feel about different tires on your specific car. Of course there's always the search function here on the model specific forum for opinions.