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QUESTION/UPDATE!!!! I’m about to send this car to Lexus for the electric issue. Here’s the problem the car won’t start even with a jump now. On Wednesday the the car turned on when I jumped it the right turn signal indicator was lift up solid no blinking. The right rear taillight was blinking fast and the right headlight wouldn’t cut on and the blinker didn’t work either. When I put the cables to it the front window defogger light started to blink but no start. Is it a Immobilizer issue? Is there anyway I can disable it. Is the main ecu the issue? The fusible link is good besides a piece of the cover being broken. I’m really not trying to take this sucker to the dealer. If it’s a grounding issue, what are the other grounds besides the one near the battery near the firewall and the one near the starter?
Found the battery drain issue for my 2014 IS250! Trial and error found that if I kept the doors unlocked, (thankfully I have a garage to do this), the battery had no abnormal drain. When I locked it, and did not start the vehicle for more than 3 days the battery was completely dead. This all after the dealership gave me a new battery and tested the car for parasitic drain for days and found NOTHING! I made a call to Lexus to report the problem and my findings on the battery drain so that they can hopefully find a solution for others who must park outside and use their door locks. Hope this helps someone else
Try some of the things in this video link above. I would start with making sure your battery is connected well and is working properly. I know you replaced it but maybe it is draining somehow and doesn't have enough juice to turn your engine over. One thing you can try immediate is to put the car in neutral and try starting it to make sure it isn't something with the sensor that tells the car it's in park.
I’m having a similar problem where I try to start my car n the battery just dies but when igo move the both terminals around it gives the the car power again but ihave checked my battery before n they said is good!, do ihave to clean the terminals or something?
Just and update... the car still isn’t running. The last time I checked it I heard the fuel pump turn on so I know that’s not the problem. I tried to unfold the engine by doing the steps still to no prevail. Still will not start. So this morning, I went to to go fool with it and the battery dead giving it should be with the number of times I tried to start it. But this strange noise was coming from it and I don’t what to call it. Can anyone help me out? Here’s the link https://youtu.be/c5jHE9OXjyU
So I have a no-start issue. Rather than opening a new thread, I searched and found this one which is my exact issue. 4mulaJ87 - did you take your car to the dealer? If so, what was the fix?
By the way, that clicking sound in your video (for anyone else who finds this thread later) is what you get when your battery is not full. I had the same thing when my battery was low. I don't have this sound now as I've got 12.5v across the terminals.
I'm wondering if it was your fuel pump in the end? Did you buy an OEM one when you did the replacement? I bought a cheaper pump for a Honda once and it died within 2 weeks. You said you just replaced the pump. Could it have been defective?
So I have a no-start issue. Rather than opening a new thread, I searched and found this one which is my exact issue. 4mulaJ87 - did you take your car to the dealer? If so, what was the fix?
By the way, that clicking sound in your video (for anyone else who finds this thread later) is what you get when your battery is not full. I had the same thing when my battery was low. I don't have this sound now as I've got 12.5v across the terminals.
I'm wondering if it was your fuel pump in the end? Did you buy an OEM one when you did the replacement? I bought a cheaper pump for a Honda once and it died within 2 weeks. You said you just replaced the pump. Could it have been defective?
Post what has been done on the car lately. How long has this been going on? What things have you done to troubleshoot?
When the car did start any symptoms prior to the no starts. Another the car will flood if too many no crank starts.
>Post what has been done on the car lately.
Complete dissasembly of the body. Car started after being disassembled. Then it sat for 6(?) weeks. During that time I had an issue where the key was not recognized. I fixed that by re-installing the red box under the rear deck.
>How long has this been going on?
Not sure. Hadn't tried starting it in 6-ish weeks.
>What things have you done to troubleshoot?
Test and charge battery. Clean terminals. Check for OBD2 code (there are none). Listen for fuel pump (sounds ok), disconnect battery for 10 mins, try again. There was also a hint about trying to unclog the fuel lines by starting with the brake and gas depressed. No items on the list worked. I do suspect a fuse now, I just didnt have time to check them before the car got loaded on a trailer headed for France. I paid to ship it Non-Op, given its condition. Good thing as it didn't really affect the pickup when it didn't start.
>When the car did start any symptoms prior to the no starts.
Nope. Ran perfect when parked. Was driven in to the garage like this:
>Another the car will flood if too many no crank starts.
Car didn't crank. It was just silent. Just like the OP.
Not much I can do now, it's off across the pond to my new place. I'll see it again in 2-3 months.
Hey - resurrecting this year+ old thread as I finally got this car running with the help of a friend who had a laptop with Autocom software on it. Posting this here in case it helps others.
We first confirmed the battery in the key was good. Then put the key in range of the car and the symptoms hadn't changed. We hooked up the laptop and found no faults. We were able to test the starter by sending a command from the laptop. It turned over for 3 seconds, confirming the starter worked. Then we turned on the fuel pump from the computer, again, hearing noise confirmed it worked, and did the same with the injectors. We tried to 'Reset Key Synchronization', but it did nothing. Then, I took the keys well out of range and again tried to re-sync the keys and this time it did something. I brought the keys back in range, and it started!
This really is some amazing software (we had the Windows version). I legit thought I'd need to take it to the dealership to get it diagnosed/running. And I figured they would never touch it given the level of hackery on the car.
Hey - resurrecting this year+ old thread as I finally got this car running with the help of a friend who had a laptop with Autocom software on it. Posting this here in case it helps others.
We first confirmed the battery in the key was good. Then put the key in range of the car and the symptoms hadn't changed. We hooked up the laptop and found no faults. We were able to test the starter by sending a command from the laptop. It turned over for 3 seconds, confirming the starter worked. Then we turned on the fuel pump from the computer, again, hearing noise confirmed it worked, and did the same with the injectors. We tried to 'Reset Key Synchronization', but it did nothing. Then, I took the keys well out of range and again tried to re-sync the keys and this time it did something. I brought the keys back in range, and it started!
This really is some amazing software (we had the Windows version). I legit thought I'd need to take it to the dealership to get it diagnosed/running. And I figured they would never touch it given the level of hackery on the car.
Wholly hell, that is some next level hackery for sure!
Was the donor a 350?
Feel free to start a new thread with some details!
Also, please roll some video of you taking it in for 75K check up at the Lexus dealership! Ha! The look would be priceless!
05-17-19, 04:27 AM
