MNEWGEN

Hello everyone,

This is my first post although I've owned my 2011 IS350 for 2 years now. I've been researching since last Saturday when this happened but haven't had much luck. I'm going to be well-detailed about the whole situation and hoping that someone could help me out... Thank you in advance!

I dropped my vehicle off at a very reputable Lexus dealership 25 mins away from where I live for the Fuel Delivery Pipe recall. Then, I picked it up around noon the next day on Saturday. I drove less than 5 miles away to a mall, went inside and came back out within 1 hour. When I came out to start it, the engine started up and shut off within 2 seconds of starting. I tried to push start again and the same thing within 1 second. Then I waited a bit and tried again and it won't turn over. I even tried to get jump started by mall security with the jump box and a friend who came with jumper cables. Still no luck...

I ended up getting it towed back to the same Lexus dealership and here's what they said: "CODES C1241 AND B279A COMMUNICATION LINE HIGH FIXATION. TEMPORARILY INSTALL NEW BATTERY TO PERFORM INSPECTION TO ENGINE IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM CODE B279A WILL NOT RESET. CONNECT OSCILLOSCOPE TO CK WAVEFORM FROM ID CODE BOX TO ECM OD E4-A5 CONNECTOR E1 IMI WIRES THERE IS NO SIGNAL TO THE ECM FROM ID CODE BOX THE NEXT STEP IS TO REMOVE THE DASH TO GET TO THE ID CODE BOX TO RUN TEST AND THE WIRES FROM THE ID BOX TO ECM."

How on earth does it happen from the Fuel Delivery Pipe recall? They were suggesting that someone tried to break into my vehicle while I was at the mall which is very unlikely because there was no evidence of vandalism and my aftermarket alarm system (professionally installed 2 years ago) would have alerted me. It would have also chirped 3 times when I unlock the doors to notify me that there was vandalism but there wasn't any. They wanted to take apart the dash if I approved but I declined it and had the vehicle towed back home instead.

Some might say it's my alarm system but that's very unlikely because I've had it for 2 years, changed battery once and disconnected battery for other occasions and my car starts up every time so I know it's not related to the alarm system.

So far, the troubleshooting that I've done is:
-unplugged battery for 4 hours then replaced my battery last night
-checked all fuses with IG and DMM fuse testers
-cycled the push start button 5-10 times before attempting to start every time (with key fob next to push start button)
-the Check Completed shows in the dash to verify that systems are good (Key is detected and puddle lamps light up too)
-lights, dash and everything works except vehicle cranks but won't turn over/dies right after
-disconnected the battery again while temporarily removing the ETCS and EFI fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, waited 3-4 mins and plugged everything back up

I believe it's at a point where the ECU/system is thinking that someone is trying to steal the vehicle which it's not when I have the key fob up against the start button..

I'll keep updating this as I work on it some more. I really am hoping that I do not need to pull the dash because I did before on my old 2003 1IS and it was a nightmare... I just do not understand how tf this can happen after a simple recall...

Thank you in advance

mandyfig

I hate to say it, smells like fishy to me. This sounds like (from other posts) the key lost its communication with the car. And there was a simple way to get it re-trained. You can do a search and I will do it too.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

I would say it might be a problem with the after market alarm. Wether it's a repubtable high end, or low budget. There's always going to be bad circuit boards.... etc etc.

​​​​​​One can't really rely on this they are not built to the highest standards.

Another thing if you want to reset the ETCS, EFI. Disconnecting the battery negative would reset it.

Or you can just do the ECU fuse pull. As it really doesn't due much, but wipe out the cell light off. I'd rather pull the battery to wipe out the learned long term fuel trims. This works when changing out 02 sensor's, MAF.... etc...etc.

https://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/...our-ecu-363500

One last thing to check your aftermarket alram. See if there is any reset procedures.

mandyfig

Read through this, you might get something out of it:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-security.html

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

The circumstances seem pretty odd! There was another thread recently whereby the ECM seemingly lost track of its paired keys. OP didn't report any codes IIRC.

Crazy that it allows the engine to crank over even though the key is invalid.

As for your question; (how) I wonder if the shop connected Techstream to monitor fuel pressure and somehow this played a role in this?

So what happens if you remove the battery from the fob and place on the start button?

MNEWGEN

Thanks for your help on this. I looked at that thread and I wasn't clear if the OP had any accessories or light working in his car with his remote. His was showing that "Key not detected". Mine isn't showing that and is detecting the key fob after the key shows Check Completed upon pressing the Push Start button. I'm really frustrated at this point.

MNEWGEN

Yep, I just disconnected the battery and pulled the ETCS and EFI fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, waited 3-4 mins and plugged everything back up. Still same problem of not turning over... I don't have an Intelligent Tester but the method above would have worked as I've read upon it.

MNEWGEN

I'm not sure if fuel has anything to do with this but it's a possibility... the fuel currently has 1/4 tank, I was informed that it could be the culprit of not enough fuel pressure...

I'm a bit confused on what you are trying to say, my key is detected with the vehicle and everything lights up and works. Just cranks and don't turn over/ run...

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Techstream is Toyota/Lexus software that talks to all of the on board systems. The tech may have connected to your obd port to verify fuel pressure not tank fuel level.

As for the fob, with battery out placed on the button brake depressed, what does it do?

Good to know all other fob responses are valid. Car knows the fob exists.

Perhaps you have a real component failure of that module. Sounds like the tech was on the right path testing for low to high signal. Get on TIS and read up on that failure mode.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Since they did work in this area, try disconnecting the fuel pressure sensor connector for the sensor and try to start it. See if they damaged the sensor somehow causing various issues here.

MNEWGEN

I took out the key fob battery yesterday and tried to start the vehicle as you suggested. Key was not detected. Next step I have to do is pull the dash but I need to find out how to test the ID code box

MNEWGEN

I found the guide for the Fuel Delivery Pipe Gasket and am starting to wonder if there was an error on the tech's part for this.... like if the process to discharge the fuel pressure prior to starting on the work..

I've been in contact with the Service Director and I asked to see if it was possible to schedule a brief meeting with the tech to see how he did the recall to get an idea of how the work was done but he was a bit hesitant about it.. We'll see if the meeting goes through today or not..

mandyfig

I have not taken my IS for this recall yet, now I am feeling a little bit concerned...

redspencer

iTrader: (1)

Do you happen to have an electronic copy of the rest of the procedures for the fuel delivery pipe recall? I've been curious to see the entirety of the procedure as I had a different CEL code pop up a week after the recall was done but I was never able to pinpoint the true cause of it.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

+1 I wouldn't want to risk it either my car runs great now.
I'm due for the airbag, furl sensor. I'm even due for the windshield wiper nut recall. Still I haven't tooken my car to them.