rotor is HOT
12-13-18, 09:41 PM
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
guy so i changed the calipers tonight, so pads rotors and calipers are new. i used the grease mike said to use and i didnt overpack or overgrease. got home checked out the rear wheels and both rotors are extremely hot. cant leave my finger on them but a half second. now im completely without any ideas . this cant be normal temperature just cant be. i know they get hot but not this hot.
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bryceis250 (01-07-19)
12-14-18, 06:00 PM
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Is there any chance that during the first repair it was over-packed with grease? As you noted, it makes it difficult to assemble but if the grease is too thick and can't leak past the guide pin it shoves the pad into the rotor keeping it hot all the time.
I'm just saying be very careful about the amount and quality of grease used. Too much and you force the pad into the rotor on the inside if the caliper won't slide like it's supposed too.
That said, check your inside pad for wear.
I used this green silicone based grease from Permatex about a month ago and all seems well so far.
Also if there is a bunch of air trapped in the line the piston in the caliper won't retract when you let off the brakes so that can also be a factor. Bleed those brakes!!
I'm just saying be very careful about the amount and quality of grease used. Too much and you force the pad into the rotor on the inside if the caliper won't slide like it's supposed too.
That said, check your inside pad for wear.
I used this green silicone based grease from Permatex about a month ago and all seems well so far.
Also if there is a bunch of air trapped in the line the piston in the caliper won't retract when you let off the brakes so that can also be a factor. Bleed those brakes!!
I don't see how you could've. We are talking about the slide boots rear calipers? I normally just fix it to the bracket side. Then just slide it in until I see the boot clamp itself on the lips. Then slide it back and forth a little to see if it's clipped on both lips. After that I just proceed to bolt the top bolt on.
So its the caliper getting stock on the slide, or its the piston is not retracting?
Also you mentioned you had some ceramic grease? When I did the permatex long ago. I was doing a tire rotation. I decided to check the slide pins on front calipers. They were so stuck on and not sliding at all. That's when I started to search for a better grease. Which in turn I found Sil Glyde at the time.
So its the caliper getting stock on the slide, or its the piston is not retracting?
Also you mentioned you had some ceramic grease? When I did the permatex long ago. I was doing a tire rotation. I decided to check the slide pins on front calipers. They were so stuck on and not sliding at all. That's when I started to search for a better grease. Which in turn I found Sil Glyde at the time.
12-14-18, 08:10 PM
#19
Instructor
Is your parking brake properly adjusted? The pedal should go down 7-9 clicks. If more, (or less) the parking brake needs adjusting. The adjusters are located behind holes in the drums (part of the discs) They are toothed wheels aligned vertically and you turn them with a screwdriver. It can be tricky to see what's going on when you're working 'blind'
There is an adjuster on the cable too, where it attaches to the pedal, but the main adjustment should be done at the wheels.
Hope that helps
There is an adjuster on the cable too, where it attaches to the pedal, but the main adjustment should be done at the wheels.
Hope that helps
Last edited by primavera; 12-15-18 at 06:13 AM.
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bryceis250 (01-07-19)
01-07-19, 10:04 PM
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Is your parking brake properly adjusted? The pedal should go down 7-9 clicks. If more, (or less) the parking brake needs adjusting. The adjusters are located behind holes in the drums (part of the discs) They are toothed wheels aligned vertically and you turn them with a screwdriver. It can be tricky to see what's going on when you're working 'blind'
There is an adjuster on the cable too, where it attaches to the pedal, but the main adjustment should be done at the wheels.
Hope that helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0aVyqHmi7U
There is an adjuster on the cable too, where it attaches to the pedal, but the main adjustment should be done at the wheels.
Hope that helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0aVyqHmi7U
01-07-19, 10:05 PM
#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
hey can you tell me what your temp is? ill have a gun soon and its going into tha garage and the guy has one. would be very very helpful!
01-08-19, 10:44 AM
#22
Basically if you drive for 10 to 15min and coast to stop or brake very minimally your rotors should be just above ambient temp and can be touched by hand. Most of us can handle 115°F no problem. Some more. Some les but if you flick water at the rotor and it steams it's hotter than 212°F.... PS - Spit will do in a pinch too. =/
If using your hand to perform temperature testing, START at the wheels edge and work your way towards the center. If the wheel is hot, you can bet the rotor is too!!!! Use caution!
As for IR sensors; be wise about how these are used as MOST do not work well on a reflective surface like a rotor and they will under-report the temperature.
Aim for the dull black hat area is best as the rotor has too much reflection.
If using your hand to perform temperature testing, START at the wheels edge and work your way towards the center. If the wheel is hot, you can bet the rotor is too!!!! Use caution!
As for IR sensors; be wise about how these are used as MOST do not work well on a reflective surface like a rotor and they will under-report the temperature.
Aim for the dull black hat area is best as the rotor has too much reflection.
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-08-19, 04:07 PM
#23
Instructor
Drive 15 min, stop and throw some snow on your wheels, you'll know right away. If the snow stays on your wheels you're good, if it sounds like steam iron, you got some work to do.
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-08-19, 08:12 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Same thing happening to me. I think it’s the parking brake sticking cuz both the rear rotors are equally hot. I changed the rotors and pads all around 2 months ago. The front brakes should be doing most of the work on these cars, so it doesn’t make sense why rears are getting hotter. The car isn’t dragging either and the pads seem to be wearing evenly when I checked. I will be taking mine to the shop tomorrow. Worth noting that the previous owner of my car took it to Lexus years ago because the parking brake wasn’t engaging at all
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-09-19, 08:18 AM
#25
Same thing happening to me. I think it’s the parking brake sticking cuz both the rear rotors are equally hot. I changed the rotors and pads all around 2 months ago. The front brakes should be doing most of the work on these cars, so it doesn’t make sense why rears are getting hotter. The car isn’t dragging either and the pads seem to be wearing evenly when I checked. I will be taking mine to the shop tomorrow. Worth noting that the previous owner of my car took it to Lexus years ago because the parking brake wasn’t engaging at all
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-09-19, 10:27 AM
#26
Intermediate
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=banec13;10404221]
Same thing happening to me. I think it’s the parking brake sticking cuz both the rear rotors are equally hot. I changed the rotors and pads all around 2 months ago. The front brakes should be doing most of the work on these cars, so it doesn’t make sense why rears are getting hotter. The car isn’t dragging either and the pads seem to be wearing evenly when I checked. I will be taking mine to the shop tomorrow. Worth noting that the previous owner of my car took it to Lexus years ago because the parking brake wasn’t engaging at all
PLEASE let me know what you find out ! everything was fine until i did the brakes and rotors and my parking brake isnt engaging wither. i have new hardware and shoes for the parking brake; one rotor is showing minor signs of rubbing but not the other...
PLEASE let me know what you find out ! everything was fine until i did the brakes and rotors and my parking brake isnt engaging wither. i have new hardware and shoes for the parking brake; one rotor is showing minor signs of rubbing but not the other...
01-09-19, 02:16 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Just got back from the shop.. they couldn’t find anything... Parking brakes works perfectly so I’m out of ideas, sorry man. Let me know if u find anything on ur end
01-09-19, 02:41 PM
#28
I would check into a collapsed rear caliper hoses.
https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/i...alve-imbalance
Last edited by MikeFig82; 01-09-19 at 02:51 PM.
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-09-19, 04:32 PM
#29
06,awd,173.000 miles. I just installed my OEM Lexus caliper on R/Right. After doing it 4 times before with Autozone free rebuilt , Every single time caliper piston was seized, Planning to return my bad rebuilt to Lexus in a few months and pretend theirs OEM went bad. Just before warranty ran out. Calipers looks the same. Anyway.... Do NOT get rebuilt from AZone.
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bryceis250 (01-09-19)
01-09-19, 08:32 PM
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I would start with a brake line bleed. Sequence on the 2IS is DR,PR,PF,DF driver rear is the farthest line on the 2IS in the states. You would probably just feel spongy brakes though if air is in the lines.
I would check into a collapsed rear caliper hoses.
https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/i...alve-imbalance
I would check into a collapsed rear caliper hoses.
https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/i...alve-imbalance
you have an aftermarket hub assembly you would say is ok?