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ETCS fuse is OK, Pump relay is OK, fuel pump is OK. I even removed the fuel line, put it in the bottle and turned on and off the push start button and saw gasoline coming into the bottle. Can I assume that fuel system is working?
My car still has the error P2118
How do I verify if the connectivity from the ETCS fuse to the ECM. Where is the ECM locate and which wire I need to check for voltage/continuity between ETCS and ECM. Does anyone have any idea?
With your DMM did you test the fuse itself? It could have a hair line crack. I read on another thread that was the issue for the OP.
If you are getting fuel then it would start. I say this because when you sprayed Starter fluid in it ran for about 5 seconds. Well if fuel was being dumped in it would run. Could it be the fuel pressure sensor? Is that line before it and would it prevent it from getting through the injectors (I'm not sure how it works so I am just guessing).
Please, let us know if you figure it out. I'm hoping it isn't your ECU...
If you are getting fuel then it would start. I say this because when you sprayed Starter fluid in it ran for about 5 seconds. Well if fuel was being dumped in it would run. Could it be the fuel pressure sensor? Is that line before it and would it prevent it from getting through the injectors (I'm not sure how it works so I am just guessing).
Please, let us know if you figure it out. I'm hoping it isn't your ECU...
The car has error code P2118.
With the key in the on position and the boot off of the intake throttle body, I depressed throttle pedal. The throttle plate from the throttle body did not open at all. This is to confirm that the throttle actuator does not response.
ETCs fuse has power measured at 11.7 volt. So the issue is most likely between the ETCs and the ECM or between the ECM and the Throttle actuator. I really want to check the voltage/continuity between ETCs and ECM but don't know which wires to check. If someone has a diagram please share.
Things below I need to check but don't know how yet:
-Electric current from ETCs to ECM
-ECM to throttle actuator
-fuel pressure sensor
You said your battery tested fine but I am curious if it is still good. Does it have enough cranking amps to start the car? Maybe it reads fine 12.38 but doesn't have enough juice once cranking to start the car. Maybe someone else can pipe in on whether it would be worth trying to boost it while trying to start it. Read somewhere that you should close the door when trying to start the vehicle, don't know if that is true. Some folks where also saying immobilizer might be the problem. I don't know just trying to give you ideas.
A person from JustAnswer.com called today and explained to me how to identify and test the connections from the ETCs to the ECM. So I was able to locate and verify that ECM received 12.9 volts from the ETCs and 0.8 ohm reading between the two. So no communication issue between the two. He thought the ECM may need to be replaced. I was so disappointed. This lead me to look for somewhere else for possible issue, spark plug.
I removed one of the spark plugs and found that there was no fire when cranked the engine. This lead me to focus on the IG2 fuse which found to be blown (not easily by looking, verified by multimeter tool). I replaced the IG2 fuse and cranked the engine 3-4 times and the engine started running
I still have one more issue with radio no. 2 fuse, it keeps blowing when install a new fuse.
My big mistake:
- Installed the new battery cross posts, this blown the fusible link and a number of other fuses.
- After installed the new fusible link, I removed and inspected every single fuses on the car visually (big mistake), not by the digital multimeter tool.
- Trusting too much on the error code P2118, this lead me to focus on the ETCs and ECM and throttle actuator issues. Which I spent too much time researched for solutions. I even paid JustAnswer.com a fee for a diagram and some explaination on ETCs and ECM.
My car has never have major problem before until this incident. I read a lot and learned a lot from this forum and the internet
Thanks everyone for helping me getting my car back running without towing it to the dealer!
Good to see there are those that can still work on their own cars, even on these late model imports.
Congrats on getting it running and let us know what the deal with that radio fuse might be.
The RAD No. 2 fuse blown issue is caused by the amplifier device in the trunk. If I remove the plug from the amp, the fuse OK. There may be shorted in the amp internally.
Glad you found the bum fuse.
Should another do this; do as instructed - remove accordion hose near MAF sensor. Spray starting fluid into hose AND QUICKLY REATTACH HOSE TO AIR BOX.
Briskly get to drivers seat and start the car.
If I had to guess, the key was on and the throttle plate was forced open. Thus the 2118 code. Maybe?
Regardless, if the engine started with the hose off it would then have fatal error of NO input from MAF sensor and go into limp mode as this is a critical input to the ECM.
Onto the radio. Knowing now the battery terminals were reversed, solidifies my hunch that the protection diode on the input of the amp shorted to protect the rest of the amp during polarity reversal.
Open the amp and take pictures near the input of that connector. I tell you what to ohm and replace.
Repair cost could be $2.00 !!!!
09-14-18, 09:24 AM
